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Old 09-14-2009, 02:56 PM   #16
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BTW, I'm loving the ACE 1015 for steering so far. I'm going to have to dial in some expo to slow it down.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:48 PM   #17
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Thanks for the replies. I forgot to get WD-40 while I was out and will go do that in a bit. I don't have a nice tool set, just metric and standard sets of L-hex wrenches and the ones that came with the RTR. Hope I don't run into a screw that I can't find a wrench for.

I'll be starting it in an hour or so; if I run into trouble I'll be back here asking more questions.

Thanks again.

-Evvy
I would not WD-40 your bearings. It does take the dirt of but also takes the grease out as well. If this is your first tear down I would replace your bearings in your vehicle. Avid RC has awesome bearings and they are really cheap.

Here is a list of the bearings you need to do a complete replacement of all of them. I am not sure if you race but I replace my bearings for my hubs every 2 races. And Diff bearings every time I rebuild them. I would recommend get Revolution bearings for hubs, and diffs. They are metal shielded on one side and a rubber shield on the other. When you put the new bearing in, put the rubber seal towards the most dirt would come from. You may not need to replace the bearing in the steering assembly but check them out. It they are getting crunchy replace them.

Losi 8ight Bearing Kit
6x 8x14x4 Flanged (For Diffs. Use Revolutions)
4x 8x14x4 (Fur Hub. Use Revolutions)
4x 1/2 x 3/4 (For Hub. Use Revolutions)
4x 6x10 (Steering Assembly)
4x 5x11 (For Diff Case. Use Revolutions)
1x 5x13 (For Clutch. Use Rubber)
1x 5x10 (For Clutch. Use Rubber)
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:34 PM   #18
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Got the engine apart tonight and I think I found my tuning problems. The head screws took very little effort to unscrew them but there was a very small 'snap' to get them loose. The backplate on the other hand was effortless to unscrew. I mean effortless. Not even a little bit of snap to get them loose. And zero loctite on either the head or backplate screws. so for now I am hoping air leaks were my problem.

The head and backplate should be loctited right?
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:18 PM   #19
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Got the engine apart tonight and I think I found my tuning problems. The head screws took very little effort to unscrew them but there was a very small 'snap' to get them loose. The backplate on the other hand was effortless to unscrew. I mean effortless. Not even a little bit of snap to get them loose. And zero loctite on either the head or backplate screws. so for now I am hoping air leaks were my problem.

The head and backplate should be loctited right?
No!
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:23 PM   #20
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Too late. What do I have to look forward to?
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:37 PM   #21
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Nothing much because once your motor gets up to running temp the locite wont be as effective. I recommen sealing your motor and use locite on the motor mount screws and some chassis parts
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:58 PM   #22
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Nothing much because once your motor gets up to running temp the locite wont be as effective. I recommen sealing your motor and use locite on the motor mount screws and some chassis parts
Blue RTV OK for the backplate? I have some of that.
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:06 PM   #23
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Is the bearings the same in the roller as the RTR?

Definitely seal the motor , I just made a 3 part vid on sealing
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:06 PM   #24
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Is the bearings the same in the roller as the RTR?

Definitely seal the motor , I just made a 3 part vid on sealing
I think blue is fine, I use the gold copper RTV though
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:35 PM   #25
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The consensus seems to be that loctite melts/burns off with heat so I'm not so worried anymore.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:05 AM   #26
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Yep, loctide and heat are not compatible
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:46 AM   #27
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I would not WD-40 your bearings. It does take the dirt of but also takes the grease out as well. If this is your first tear down I would replace your bearings in your vehicle. Avid RC has awesome bearings and they are really cheap.

Here is a list of the bearings you need to do a complete replacement of all of them. I am not sure if you race but I replace my bearings for my hubs every 2 races. And Diff bearings every time I rebuild them. I would recommend get Revolution bearings for hubs, and diffs. They are metal shielded on one side and a rubber shield on the other. When you put the new bearing in, put the rubber seal towards the most dirt would come from. You may not need to replace the bearing in the steering assembly but check them out. It they are getting crunchy replace them.

Losi 8ight Bearing Kit
6x 8x14x4 Flanged (For Diffs. Use Revolutions)
4x 8x14x4 (Fur Hub. Use Revolutions)
4x 1/2 x 3/4 (For Hub. Use Revolutions)
4x 6x10 (Steering Assembly)
4x 5x11 (For Diff Case. Use Revolutions)
1x 5x13 (For Clutch. Use Rubber)
1x 5x10 (For Clutch. Use Rubber)


I use WD40 on all my bearings all the time and I use proteck bearings and AVID. I also use a bearing oil to lube them from time to time..... Never had a problem or issue with doing this -

I would not suggest using rubber for clutch especially on the big bearing - I found the proteck clutch bearings last ME a little longer than the Avid and they are the same price.

4x 8x14x4 (Fur Hub. Use Revolutions) how do these hold up?
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #28
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Ace servos output gears have the same number of splines as Futaba... but the spline shape is slightly different. Futaba arms "work", but aren't optimally seated on them gears... get Ace arms as a replacement (they're cheap AND they're great with the metal ring).

Paul

PS: I predict there's at least 5 people who will tell me "I use futaba arms on my ace servos without any issues and everyone at my track does what rock have you been living under the past 10 years"
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:19 PM   #29
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get Ace arms as a replacement (they're cheap AND they're great with the metal ring).

Paul
Does ACE make aluminum arms?
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