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Old 09-10-2009, 08:25 AM   #31
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If you read some "How to tune an engine" and dont mess with those needles like crazy, it really isn't that hard... Especially when someone helps you in the beginning, thats the hardest part IMO.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:13 AM   #32
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Sorry just to say - Nitro is WAY more fun than electric. Yes could be more expensive but worth all the frustration and cost............

Crowds watching, racing under the lights, smoke and dust, go home dirty and feeling like a brut man - ahahahahaha - pitstops and pitman easy to find a pit man. Not running pro at first so a extra second durning a pit stop is not goign to kill ya. Any thing you needs or help you may need, just ask and you will get all the help you needs plus some.


My only suggestion is: When it comes down to buying, DONT ASK NO ONE FOR SUGGESTIONS, just way to many opinions and arguments. Do the research and buy what pleases you. There are alot of GOOD products out there. Some work for some and others work for others. I like Losi and JR, others like Mugen and Hitec. All are good in there own rights but people in the hobby feel very strong about there choices. THEY REPRESENT. Its not a problem until people start trashing other companies they personally dont like.


so with that, just do you homework and buy what you like and not what people tell you to buy.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:33 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 09 lex 250 View Post
ive been in and out of the rc game for about 15 or so years but have been a electric guy for the entire time.i really want to go 1/8 buggy nitro but i really dont know that much about it. my friends tell me that its much easier than eletric.but i really dont know.is it that much easier? it seems pretty straight forward except for the tuning process. so any help would be greatly appreciated on this subject.im considering either the associated rc8b or the losi 2.0..

ps. ive been associated my whole life lol

thanks

For me I love nitro but with all the new electric technology electric is more maintenance free than nitro. Not to say that you don't need to do maintenance on electric but nitro just takes more time and effort. I like both equally at this point. 1/8 in itself is almost unbreakable all the cars are solid. When I run 1/10 I for sure have more breakage,parts,pieces and such. Enjoy
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:40 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by motomanpat View Post
For me I love nitro but with all the new electric technology electric is more maintenance free than nitro. Not to say that you don't need to do maintenance on electric but nitro just takes more time and effort. I like both equally at this point. 1/8 in itself is almost unbreakable all the cars are solid. When I run 1/10 I for sure have more breakage,parts,pieces and such. Enjoy
I do just as much maintenace on my 8E as I do on my 8b and 8T - just as much.

With nitro you tune the engine - and with electric I just my PC to adjust the power curve and change gears so not to be over powered for the track Im running on. both still change diffs and shocks - tear down and rebuild after every race . So they both require the same maintenance
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:07 PM   #35
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now im no pro, but i prefer electric to nitro..

the only thing i like about nitro is the long mains. i currently race on road electric and its fun, but the 5 minute mains kind of stink, it forces you to drive agressive the whole time. in a nitro main, a steady pace is better than a frantic one which you chance flipping yourself and losing more time than just taking that fraction of a second more.

right now i have a lightning pro 2 that has no power plant, im on the verge of getting either a conversion kit, or getting a v spec.. it all depends on what my track has to say (class wise). i kind of want to race the longer mains..
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:51 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Echelon View Post
If you read some "How to tune an engine" and dont mess with those needles like crazy, it really isn't that hard... Especially when someone helps you in the beginning, thats the hardest part IMO.
i agree with you on that..i can work a car pretty good imo..but the tuning will be my issue probably

Quote:
Originally Posted by token View Post
Sorry just to say - Nitro is WAY more fun than electric. Yes could be more expensive but worth all the frustration and cost............

Crowds watching, racing under the lights, smoke and dust, go home dirty and feeling like a brut man - ahahahahaha - pitstops and pitman easy to find a pit man. Not running pro at first so a extra second durning a pit stop is not goign to kill ya. Any thing you needs or help you may need, just ask and you will get all the help you needs plus some.

lol i see this at least 2x's a week and ive officially fell in love with nitro!!

My only suggestion is: When it comes down to buying, DONT ASK NO ONE FOR SUGGESTIONS, just way to many opinions and arguments. Do the research and buy what pleases you. There are alot of GOOD products out there. Some work for some and others work for others. I like Losi and JR, others like Mugen and Hitec. All are good in there own rights but people in the hobby feel very strong about there choices. THEY REPRESENT. Its not a problem until people start trashing other companies they personally dont like.


so with that, just do you homework and buy what you like and not what people tell you to buy.
EXACTLY!! ive been telling people this for years.im gld someone else thinks like me

Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat View Post
For me I love nitro but with all the new electric technology electric is more maintenance free than nitro. Not to say that you don't need to do maintenance on electric but nitro just takes more time and effort. I like both equally at this point. 1/8 in itself is almost unbreakable all the cars are solid. When I run 1/10 I for sure have more breakage,parts,pieces and such. Enjoy
i feel ya on the 10 electrics breaking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
now im no pro, but i prefer electric to nitro..

the only thing i like about nitro is the long mains. i currently race on road electric and its fun, but the 5 minute mains kind of stink, it forces you to drive agressive the whole time. in a nitro main, a steady pace is better than a frantic one which you chance flipping yourself and losing more time than just taking that fraction of a second more.

right now i have a lightning pro 2 that has no power plant, im on the verge of getting either a conversion kit, or getting a v spec.. it all depends on what my track has to say (class wise). i kind of want to race the longer mains..
i agree with having longer mains for electric too this whole 6 min thing is drivin me nuts.isnt that what lipos were designed for? longer runtimes?
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:27 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 09 lex 250 View Post
i agree with having longer mains for electric too this whole 6 min thing is drivin me nuts.isnt that what lipos were designed for? longer runtimes?
Not everyone uses lipo -- for whatever reason (cost, car design, concern over safety). Having said that, I don't have any problem hitting a 10 minute main in 4wd mod buggy using 4300 nimh with my 8.5 brushless, even with plenty of warm up laps. I like the longer mains, but not everyone is in the same boat on spending money -- I'd hate to see race times dictated by what the folks with lipos can do. Hitting 10 minutes has been around for a long time, but the second we start going much higher than that we will be excluding a lot of club racers.
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:46 PM   #38
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heres what i spent on my buggy

1.eight b 1.o $300

2.hitec dingal servo $64.00

3.futaba cordless servo $94.00

4.nova.21bf $150

5.dynamite 86 pipe $49.00

6. proline crimefighters m3 $17.65 for a pair

$692

granded that i brough the eight 1.0 when they where getting rid of it
and u can be competive that does depend on your driveing also
the main reason i wont go electric dont care for soldering and messin with lipos and electrics are to quite to me and not exciting ,and speed controls for 1/8 not quite realble and not to metion nitro is lighter and running 1/8 nitro makes u get a rush when u are driving them
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:55 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
heres what i spent on my buggy

1.eight b 1.o $300

2.hitec dingal servo $64.00

3.futaba cordless servo $94.00

4.nova.21bf $150

5.dynamite 86 pipe $49.00

6. proline crimefighters m3 $17.65 for a pair

$692

granded that i brough the eight 1.0 when they where getting rid of it
and u can be competive that does depend on your driveing also
the main reason i wont go electric dont care for soldering and messin with lipos and electrics are to quite to me and not exciting ,and speed controls for 1/8 not quite realble and not to metion nitro is lighter and running 1/8 nitro makes u get a rush when u are driving them
thats not a bad number..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Not everyone uses lipo -- for whatever reason (cost, car design, concern over safety). Having said that, I don't have any problem hitting a 10 minute main in 4wd mod buggy using 4300 nimh with my 8.5 brushless, even with plenty of warm up laps. I like the longer mains, but not everyone is in the same boat on spending money -- I'd hate to see race times dictated by what the folks with lipos can do. Hitting 10 minutes has been around for a long time, but the second we start going much higher than that we will be excluding a lot of club racers.
thats very true
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:45 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
Takes half that to be competitive at the club level. I have $1231 into all brand new equipment including two Hitec 7950s and a LiPO rx pack, niether of which are required for racing. Could easily be done for $1000 with a quality setup, new.

Still not sure how people are considering gas harder. Tuning a gas motor isnt any more difficult than tuning/maintaining an electric motor (cutting comms, testing springs and brushes etc). Do not be intimidated by some of these posts; read the manual on tuning the motor and do it step by step; so easy a caveman could do it (I did it for christ sakes ).
Okay, true. I should add that I am Canadian and not only is the Canadian dollar worth less but most local shops have pretty intense mark-up on the car and truck side of the business. You guys south of the border are really lucky as far as RC racing goes. I've been in shops down there and you can get anything you need for(what seems like) cheap.

I have probably $2500CAD worth of nitro race gear, if I were to buy everything brand new from A-Main, I would probably save a thousand bucks.

Either way, when you factor in the roller, engine, pipe, radio, servos, etc. then add several different sets of tires to give yourself options, fuel, entry fees, etc. it's expensive to get going.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:57 PM   #41
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Okay, true. I should add that I am Canadian and not only is the Canadian dollar worth less but most local shops have pretty intense mark-up on the car and truck side of the business. You guys south of the border are really lucky as far as RC racing goes. I've been in shops down there and you can get anything you need for(what seems like) cheap.

I have probably $2500CAD worth of nitro race gear, if I were to buy everything brand new from A-Main, I would probably save a thousand bucks.

Either way, when you factor in the roller, engine, pipe, radio, servos, etc. then add several different sets of tires to give yourself options, fuel, entry fees, etc. it's expensive to get going.
i totaled it up as well and its around 1500 jus to get up and running
but afterwards is what im worrying about..motors,parts,tires(which are very expensive to me compared to 1/8 class)glow plugs,and other misc items i may have missed
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:18 AM   #42
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I started with a used Sportwerks (Turmoil) 1/8 car RTR from ebay: $200
That came with all the following:
.26 Engine (Still good)
Spektrum DX2 radio and receiver
Servos
Starter
Ignitor
Tires and body
Bought some fuel to test the car and it was all good, so I feel pretty good about that deal .

I added (converting to dirt oval):
Ofna front bumer: $15
Losi tires (spec required at our track): $50
Odonnell 30%: $38
Fuel bottle: $12?
Losi Oval body: $115 (wrapped by fastlane ... THANK YOU CHAD!)
Stiffer springs: $15
Larger (150cc) fuel tank: $21

------

Total Invested: $466 (+ lots of hours measuring, drilling, dremelling, cutting, etc to make the conversion, but I consider that part of the fun of building a car)

and I'm on the track and racing fairly competive... could use a bigger motor on the oval, but that will come with time, for now getting car setup is key to me.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:42 AM   #43
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To get a quality race setup you are going to spend $1500. This setup will be competitve and if setup right could last you a season. Right now, LOSI RTRs are the best value on the market at $800 for everything.

Rules and Regulations are changed to comfornt two issues: one companines pay to have them changed 2) popularity of a product.

That being said, LIPOS will be the deciding factor in lenghts of mains. There new, alot of companies will pay to have this done and LIPOs are more popular that Nimhs. Sorry just like Nimhs put out Nicads. You will see the leights of mains increase in the up coming season because rules are going to change. If you guys have not learned, the RC world technology changes every year and the companies expect you to buy whats new. Look at Losi release of the 2.0. Most of the people who had the 1.0 sold them for cheap as low as 50 bucks just to get the 2.0. LIPO RX packs came out. and ALOT of people scrapped the Nimhs to go lipo.............. Nimhs are gone in the racing seen.......... and in the 2010 season if your not running lipo you wont be competitive.....
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:37 AM   #44
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Nimhs are gone in the racing seen.......... and in the 2010 season if your not running lipo you wont be competitive.....
I'm sorry, but that's just silly. Blanket statements like that are what make internet forums a joke. Jared Tebo used nimh in his lazer zx-5 fs to dominate the qualifying of 4wd 1/10 buggy and place second over all just two months ago in the 2009 roar nats. NIMH come in basically the same capacity offerings as lipo. If you run lipo in competitive racing, you must weigh in enough with weight trays, so what actually causes you to NOT be competitive if you decided to stick with nimh? What technical reason is there that lipo is a requirement to be competitive, especially outside of spec classes?
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:43 AM   #45
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$1055.46 shipped to Vancouver BC after the $25 September coupon.

Quote:
...so what actually causes you to NOT be competitive if you decided to stick with nimh? What technical reason is there that lipo is a requirement to be competitive, especially outside of spec classes?
Ignorance or arrogance.
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