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Old 09-09-2009, 07:01 PM   #16
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Here is some input from a newer racer very new to 1/8 E.

I figured that if I was going to jump into the "premier" class that the world of off road r/c racing revolves around that I wanted to have one less possible problem that would hold me back from learning and enjoying it at first.

Learn to drive
tune vehicle
learn to drive.
I didn;t want to have to try to tune the engine and not get to run as much do to poor tuning by me...

If/when I get respectable driving skills,understand the vehicle tuning then I might consider the nitro side of 1/8 racing. As I do like the smell,sound and so on.

There is no doubt that 1/8 nitro it the biggest class at most tracks, stable rules,and so on I just wanted try the E side of things first.

Enjoy witch ever you choose !!!
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mr GoodCat View Post
Here is some input from a newer racer very new to 1/8 E.

I figured that if I was going to jump into the "premier" class that the world of off road r/c racing revolves around that I wanted to have one less possible problem that would hold me back from learning and enjoying it at first.

Learn to drive
tune vehicle
learn to drive.
I didn;t want to have to try to tune the engine and not get to run as much do to poor tuning by me...

If/when I get respectable driving skills,understand the vehicle tuning then I might consider the nitro side of 1/8 racing. As I do like the smell,sound and so on.

There is no doubt that 1/8 nitro it the biggest class at most tracks, stable rules,and so on I just wanted try the E side of things first.

Enjoy witch ever you choose !!!
got cha and thanks alot for the tip
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #18
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keep them comming guys
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:01 PM   #19
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Nitro jsut has a lot of maintenance. You have to keep on top of engine maintenance, clutch maintenance and such as everyone has already mentioned.

I know a few people who have nitro RC's and they quite literally just charge it up take it for a spin and put it back i nthe box at the end of the day. Nitro you can't do that (well you shouldn't if you want to keep it for a while). At the end of the day you gotta do after-run maintenance such as clean all sand out, clean air filters, perhaps inspect engine and clutches, oil the engine.

I personally enjoy the mechanical side of it... i like getting my hands dirty and pulling the engine apart and such. I probably do it a bit too often, but yeah at the moment i've got the time and enjoy it.

If you're mechanically minded nitro is incredibly fun i think.
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:14 PM   #20
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If you like to tinker constantly, nitro's for you.
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:52 PM   #21
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If you do choose nitro, I wouldn't jump into a $300+ engine right away. Start off with something a little bit more tame, like a Novarossi N21BF ($150) or the OS .21VG ($135). IMHO, that Nova is probably the best budget engine out there. Idles like a dream and is easy to tune, which are 2 great attributes for a Nitro newb. Keeps up with engines twice that price. Great starter engine and has plenty of power.

I don't mean to start an engine war thread here, but get a good budget engine your first time around. If you do have some tuning woes your first time around, it's a little easier to swallow a $140 hit to your wallet than a $400 one.

Someone told me long ago that you don't need a high-dollar engine until you can consistently complete 5 minute qualifiers without being marshalled. One bad crash will far outweigh any advantage a high-dollar engine might offer you. A reliable engine will offer you more track time to focus on your driving.

Do yourself a favor and buy a good kit (the two you listed are good choices), good servos, a good radio and a quality starter box right out of the gate. You will be thankful you did. I won't go into my preferences for each of these, out of fear of turning your thread into a gear war. If you would like to hear my preferences, feel free to PM me.

Hope you have a blast with whatever you decide!!!
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:54 PM   #22
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I cant think of any reason to not try it out. Engine tuning is a piece of cake; follow the instructions (many different methods but they all get you to the same place as long as you dont start messing with multiple settings). When I first started the hobby I didnt care for nitro but I really started to like the smell (still not crazy about the noise). It's just something different to try; I've had a blast with all of them; 1/10 EP buggy/truck, 1/10 NP truck, 1/10 EP/NP TC, 1/18 truck, and 1/8 NP buggy (not all at the same time, just bounced around through the years). I still dont prefer one over the other, love them all (well, 1/18 wasnt my cup of tea).
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:09 PM   #23
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Its a Challenge, If you want easy... It is not Nitro, Lectric is EASY, Nitro is a Challenge,Some day we will all race Electric cars, well not all of us will... Its easy to buy a new ESC and a Moter, Try to put in a new Engine and some servos..Tune it, adjust it and be competitive with it...Its a Rush, Time consuming and Most of all a Real Challenge, I run Lectric, For fun, Nitro for the challenge, It all depends on what you wanna get from it. Whatever you run, race it! Thats Kinda like the reason...Right?
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdtech58 View Post
If you do choose nitro, I wouldn't jump into a $300+ engine right away. Start off with something a little bit more tame, like a Novarossi N21BF ($150) or the OS .21VG ($135). IMHO, that Nova is probably the best budget engine out there. Idles like a dream and is easy to tune, which are 2 great attributes for a Nitro newb. Keeps up with engines twice that price. Great starter engine and has plenty of power.

I don't mean to start an engine war thread here, but get a good budget engine your first time around. If you do have some tuning woes your first time around, it's a little easier to swallow a $140 hit to your wallet than a $400 one.

Someone told me long ago that you don't need a high-dollar engine until you can consistently complete 5 minute qualifiers without being marshalled. One bad crash will far outweigh any advantage a high-dollar engine might offer you. A reliable engine will offer you more track time to focus on your driving.

Do yourself a favor and buy a good kit (the two you listed are good choices), good servos, a good radio and a quality starter box right out of the gate. You will be thankful you did. I won't go into my preferences for each of these, out of fear of turning your thread into a gear war. If you would like to hear my preferences, feel free to PM me.

Hope you have a blast with whatever you decide!!!
Yep, Cept for the OS VG...Dont ..It is not ok. V Spec...Awesome..VG..NOPE, Go with a Sportswerks .21 or a Dynomite, Less Cash, More Fun.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:15 PM   #25
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Do get into racing if you're prepared to spend $2000 to get going.

Do not bother if you're not prepared to spend $2000 to get going.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:23 PM   #26
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Do get into racing if you're prepared to spend $2000 to get going.

Do not bother if you're not prepared to spend $2000 to get going.
I think that is a little much. I am ashamed to say it, but I got started in 1/8 with a $75 8ight RTR roller. I added decent electronics which one servo needed to be replaced and same with radio, but I got started for about $500 to see if I liked it. Now.....I dont want to know how much I have spent to get quality equipment to where I am now, probably $1,000 extra. But, it is alot better than spending $2,000 and not liking it.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Do get into racing if you're prepared to spend $2000 to get going.

Do not bother if you're not prepared to spend $2000 to get going.
I've only spent around $400 for all my stuff, which is probably $600-$700 worth, but i know how to buy thrifty.

$100 ARTR XB8
$140 M11
$40 GRP
$30 Losi box
$28 Fuel
$30 on servos (5955 and 7955) I had the 5955.
+ other stuff.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:48 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
I cant think of any reason to not try it out. Engine tuning is a piece of cake; follow the instructions (many different methods but they all get you to the same place as long as you dont start messing with multiple settings). When I first started the hobby I didnt care for nitro but I really started to like the smell (still not crazy about the noise). It's just something different to try; I've had a blast with all of them; 1/10 EP buggy/truck, 1/10 NP truck, 1/10 EP/NP TC, 1/18 truck, and 1/8 NP buggy (not all at the same time, just bounced around through the years). I still dont prefer one over the other, love them all (well, 1/18 wasnt my cup of tea).
i feel the same...anything but that dirt oval garbage lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by fast11970 View Post
Its a Challenge, If you want easy... It is not Nitro, Lectric is EASY, Nitro is a Challenge,Some day we will all race Electric cars, well not all of us will... Its easy to buy a new ESC and a Moter, Try to put in a new Engine and some servos..Tune it, adjust it and be competitive with it...Its a Rush, Time consuming and Most of all a Real Challenge, I run Lectric, For fun, Nitro for the challenge, It all depends on what you wanna get from it. Whatever you run, race it! Thats Kinda like the reason...Right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast11970 View Post
Yep, Cept for the OS VG...Dont ..It is not ok. V Spec...Awesome..VG..NOPE, Go with a Sportswerks .21 or a Dynomite, Less Cash, More Fun.
i was looking at those exact 2 motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Do get into racing if you're prepared to spend $2000 to get going.

Do not bother if you're not prepared to spend $2000 to get going.
it doesnt take all of that money to get started with good stuff prolly around 1200

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Kerber View Post
I've only spent around $400 for all my stuff, which is probably $600-$700 worth, but i know how to buy thrifty.

$100 ARTR XB8
$140 M11
$40 GRP
$30 Losi box
$28 Fuel
$30 on servos (5955 and 7955) I had the 5955.
+ other stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris__RC View Post
I think that is a little much. I am ashamed to say it, but I got started in 1/8 with a $75 8ight RTR roller. I added decent electronics which one servo needed to be replaced and same with radio, but I got started for about $500 to see if I liked it. Now.....I dont want to know how much I have spent to get quality equipment to where I am now, probably $1,000 extra. But, it is alot better than spending $2,000 and not liking it.
agreed
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:10 AM   #29
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Ive raced electric and nitro cars for a long time. I dont think there is a huge difference between either.

When I ran electric there were always brushes that needed replacement, comms that needed truing, batteries to discharge and charge, tires to replace, and parts that needed replacement. I spent more of my day in the pits than I do running nitro and probably the same or more money. Now there are lipos and brushless set-ups so I guess that isnt the case anymore and for that reason I have been thinking about running electric as a 2nd class.

Now I race nitro and I still spend a good amount of time and money preparing but the majority of it is done at home before the race. 1/8th nitro cars are so durable that once you get past the initial phase of getting used to the car and track you ought not break too often. Tuning is only as hard as you make it. I think the most important part is to understand how the carb works and our carbs are very simple. The 2nd most important thing is knowing what a properly tuned engine sounds like. Engine break ins are not that complicated either. I think most guys over complicate things so dont make that mistake but there are plenty of guys out there who would be willing to help here on the forum and at your local track. Nitro guys need one another because of pitting so dont be scared to ask for help. When some new guy comes and asks me for help I know that if I can help him he will likely help me.

I think the nitro crowd is much easier going. Ive dealt with the electric cheating situation. It always seems to come up. With nitro its run whatcha brung 99.5% of the time. Horsepower rarely makes the difference between winners and losers. Driving, preparation, and a little luck is what it takes to win in nitro. Some of the fastest guys on the clock look like the slowest guys on the track.

I would recommend a V-Spec as a first engine. I dont think there is an engine out there that will be as easy to tune or keep from flaming out than a V-Spec. I got my first 3 years ago and have been a faithful OS customer since. Before that it was RBs and Novas both also good choices. Its been my experience though that cheaper engines run and tune like cheaper engines and that can be frustrating for someone new to tuning. I think good equipment is key. I started out with junk and if it hadnt been for my prior RC experience I may have gotten fed up and quit. It just didnt perform to expectations and things that are cheap going in are usually more expensive on the backside.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:13 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Do get into racing if you're prepared to spend $2000 to get going.

Do not bother if you're not prepared to spend $2000 to get going.
Takes half that to be competitive at the club level. I have $1231 into all brand new equipment including two Hitec 7950s and a LiPO rx pack, niether of which are required for racing. Could easily be done for $1000 with a quality setup, new.

Still not sure how people are considering gas harder. Tuning a gas motor isnt any more difficult than tuning/maintaining an electric motor (cutting comms, testing springs and brushes etc). Do not be intimidated by some of these posts; read the manual on tuning the motor and do it step by step; so easy a caveman could do it (I did it for christ sakes ).
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