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Old 08-23-2009, 09:51 PM   #1
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Default Engine Running Hot - Werks B7 Pro .21

Hello all,

I am trying to break in this engine using the heat cycling method. I have restored the factory carb settings as indicated by Ron in this thread.

I heat my engine up BDC using a heat gun until the readings from the side of the mill report about 185-195.

I find that the temperatures climb very quickly and I'm barely getting a minute out of the engine before its temps exceed 250. I have also set the throttle travel on my radio to 20% so I don't accidently gun it.

Once this happens I set it to BDC and let it cool to below 100 before trying again.

I have done this 8-10 times and still see the temps climb quickly. Is this nor mal or are my needle settings wrong? Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:06 PM   #2
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what does it sound like?

is the engine revving up by itself, or sounding lean?
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by imaxx21 View Post
what does it sound like?

is the engine revving up by itself, or sounding lean?
The engine does rev up by itself. Not sure why. Thoughts?

I am not sure what lean sounds like (I am trying to learn as much as I can with this engine), but I have noticed that it seems like the engine is "hesitating".
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:19 PM   #4
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if its revving by itself, its either an air leak or overly lean

both of which will cause a spike in temp and should be fixed before you proceed
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:22 PM   #5
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Garet, Your putting up too many threads lol, lets try to stick to a single thread so that its a little easier for me to follow. Regarding your engine it sounds like you simply have your needles set too lean. Factory needle settings as you mentioned are just that, a setting that some one in Italy sets the needles on a carburetor to. This should never, ever, ever, ever (let me say ever, ever a couple more times) be assumed to be a break in setting! There is absolutely no way for us as manufacturers or a guy in the factory to know what type of fuel you are using, what plug you use, which pipe you have, what altitude you are at, what the weather conditions are or even how long a length of fuel line you are using! Each and every one of these items that I listed can be as much as a complete turn difference on a needle!!!!!!

So.... what do you do? Go to "The New Werks B5" thread that I started and if you page through it you will find a pretty detailed write up that I posted about how I break in an engine. This gives you detailed information on how I adjust the needles, what signs I look for to know how to adjust them etc. etc. etc. Basically if you read this and follow it, you should be able to break in your engine properly and end up with a properly tuned engine at the same time. Follow these instructions and you should not have any problem.

Please post on this thread if you have any questions once you review it and/or if you tried it and it resolved whatever issues you were experiencing.

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Old 08-24-2009, 06:25 PM   #6
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Maybe you should try richening it until you see temps go down to around the 210. The richer the better as i was told by Jamminkrazy
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:48 PM   #7
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Richen up the engine to the point where pulling full throttle bogs it down because it is too rich, that is how I've broken in my last 3 engines, one of which died at 16 gallons, and the other 2 are still running fine after about 7 gallons. You need to make sure the engine is lubricated VERY well during break in. Dont worry too much about the temp, just make sure it's spewing out smoke for the first 5 or so tanks, then slowly lean it out.
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Ron,

I'll stop making threads for you to search on and answer questions. Instead, I'll post them here for a little bit.

I have read through this post a few times and am trying to use it to break in my B7 Pro. I may very well buy a B5 as well, but that is a different story....

I have been able to get it idling pretty well, but the engine will periodically rev itself for no apparent reason. It may sit in an idle for 10-15 seconds and then out of the blue start to rev higher without me touching throttle. Sometimes hitting and holding the brake returns it to the former idle, sometimes not. Sometimes the idle returns just as mysteriously as the rev came.

I am basically still in the first and second paragraph - I haven't even idled it through a tank.
OK, if your following the system that i posted this should all be pretty basic. First thing first though I'm not sure how experienced you are setting up cars etc. (so please excuse my approaching this from a reeeaaallly basics standpoint) so first thing first. When I hear people mention something like this "Sometimes hitting and holding the brake returns it to the former idle, sometimes not' one of the first things that I question is that they actually have their linkage set up properly? Meaning when you apply breaks your idle should not change. When this happens it can often be caused by not having the linkage set so that the slide is fully closed (against the idle stop) when the servo is in a neutral position. The linkage set up is pretty basic but if this is not done from the start you will be chasing your tail with everything else. To check this simply apply the brakes, if the slide moves at all, it's not set properly and you need to take care of this.

Once this is done it's basic like I said in my break in instructions. Set the idle stop screw so that the slide is open about 1 to 1.5mm. Set the HS needle so that it is flush with the end of the housing. Fire the engine up and allow it to come back down to idle. If you idle is not proper, do not touch the idle screw, adjust the LS needle. Richen the LS needle if the idle is high, lean the LS needle if the idle is low (obviously do 1hr adjustments, blip throttle, allow to come back to idle and if necessary repeat until idle speed is correct/right).

This is all pretty basic and you should be able to do this in a couple of minutes. Now that I just typed that I should probably state that this does of course assume that you have all of the basics done properly i.e. linkage set properly, clutch installed properly (and no broken springs), fuel lines installed correctly and without any pinholes etc.).

If your trying to do the heat cycle method like you posted initially and trying to get to 200 degree's while at idle I normally don't use this system so I'm not going to be able to help you there. The one thing that I'm concerned about is where you mentioned that you have idled it through 8-10 tanks and then say "I find that the temperatures climb very quickly and I'm barely getting a minute out of the engine before its temps exceed 250". This frankly is some what scary because it means the engine was ran way, way lean repeatedly during the first few tanks which is basically the most important time in an engines life cycle.

Try the stuff I indicated above and let me know what happens. Using this system if the engine idles properly, it is impossible for it to be set too lean so if you see hot temps, erratic idles, surging engines or anything else it's not being caused by the carburetor settings but by something else. Could be a plug issue, clutch or clutch bell bearing, incorrectly sealing tank lid or possibly a pin hole in a seam on it, a pin hole in your fuel line, a blocked pressure nipple on the pipe or something along those lines. Let me know what you come up with!

Regards,

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