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Old 08-23-2009, 08:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Amoeba View Post
DOH. Good catch. Didn't even notice that when I was grabbing links for him.
No worries man. The forum needs more people like you willing to help others.

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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
thanks signal151. glad u caught that before i ordered. that's why i wait til SUNDAY NIGHT before i place an order. JUST INCASE!!!

looking at my buggy, i do have the correct springs. all i need to purchase is the pistons, 5K diff oil, and shock oil. everything else is just adjustments.

for the record, i bought this buggy as a 1.0 buggy that was used as a parts car. the parts that was missing, i purchased the 2.0 items. that's why i call it a losi 1.8 in my sig. i have a few more parts for it to be considered a full 2.0. also since this was a parts car, i really never checked out the settings, diff oil, or anything. i just put all the parts together and put it on the track. and im hoping that's the reason why it drives like crap. well, the main issue i am having is the rear end is VERY LOOSE. even with a moist track and new tires.

hopefully these adjustments will put my 8ight 1.8 back on par.

thanks all for the help
The main thing is which chassis do you have? I'm guessing it's the 1.0 chassis. All the other parts and deisgn changes are minor. Based on that I'd look for some original setups as the 2.0 setups currently available from Losi may not work properly for your older chassis.

Also I notice you run a lot of electric. Is the buggy that you're asking questions about electric or nitro? If it's electric, again, setups may change substantially due to the different weight distribution and center of gravity.

Whenever I get a new chassis I always search for the most stable and forgiving setup that works well across many different tracks and conditions. Then I tweak the setup to the track I run on. If I go race at another track, I put that car back to the stable setup before heading out then I begin tweaking at the new track. My goal is to find tweaks that decrease lap times while still keeping the car relatively stable. A stable car will mean more consistent driving for you and ultimately higher finishes.

Since I can't attach images, I'll give you the best "base" 8ight 1.0 setup I've found. It makes the car very stable and easy to drive.

Front:
- Toe out of 2 degrees
- Losi short silver springs set to 27mm ride height
- Camber of -1 degree
- Caster of 20 degrees (stock)
- 2.7mm (thick) sway bar
- 54 piston with 40wt Losi shock fluid
- max droop
- long steering ackerman
- bump steer set to down
- Camber link set to middle outside hole in shock tower
- Lower shock at #2 (inside)
- Upper shock at #2 (middle)
- 3000 wt Losi diff fluid

Center:
- 5000 wt Losi diff fluid
- 4 Dynamite "Max Life" clutch shoes with gold springs

Rear:
- Toe in of 3 degrees
- Anti squat of 2 degrees
- Losi long green springs set to 28mm ride height
- Camber of -1.5 degrees
- Two hub spacers behind the hub, one in front
- 2.3mm (thin) swaybar
- 56 piston with 25wt Losi shock fluid
- max droop
- Camber link set to top middle hole on shock tower and the inside of hub
- Lower shock at #2 (inside)
- Upper shock at #2 (middle)
- 2000 wt Losi diff fluid

Tires:
For dry, dusty tracks with low traction I'll use AKA I-Beam in soft compound. On watered, loamy tracks I'll use AKA Crossbrace in medium compound. On hard-packed, high traction tracks, I'll run AKA Gridirons in soft or medium compound. Lastly, for a general purpose practice tire I run AKA Cityblock in medium compound.

If you need to add more steering the first thing I'd do is move the rear hubs all the way back by putting all three spacers in front of the hub. You can also switch to a thinner sway bar in front. Just be sure to make one change at a time and see how it affects your car's performance.

Hope this help!
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signal151 View Post
No worries man. The forum needs more people like you willing to help others.



The main thing is which chassis do you have? I'm guessing it's the 1.0 chassis. All the other parts and deisgn changes are minor. Based on that I'd look for some original setups as the 2.0 setups currently available from Losi may not work properly for your older chassis.

Also I notice you run a lot of electric. Is the buggy that you're asking questions about electric or nitro? If it's electric, again, setups may change substantially due to the different weight distribution and center of gravity.

Whenever I get a new chassis I always search for the most stable and forgiving setup that works well across many different tracks and conditions. Then I tweak the setup to the track I run on. If I go race at another track, I put that car back to the stable setup before heading out then I begin tweaking at the new track. My goal is to find tweaks that decrease lap times while still keeping the car relatively stable. A stable car will mean more consistent driving for you and ultimately higher finishes.

Since I can't attach images, I'll give you the best "base" 8ight 1.0 setup I've found. It makes the car very stable and easy to drive.

Front:
- Toe out of 2 degrees
- Losi short silver springs set to 27mm ride height
- Camber of -1 degree
- Caster of 20 degrees (stock)
- 2.7mm (thick) sway bar
- 54 piston with 40wt Losi shock fluid
- max droop
- long steering ackerman
- bump steer set to down
- Camber link set to middle outside hole in shock tower
- Lower shock at #2 (inside)
- Upper shock at #2 (middle)
- 3000 wt Losi diff fluid

Center:
- 5000 wt Losi diff fluid
- 4 Dynamite "Max Life" clutch shoes with gold springs

Rear:
- Toe in of 3 degrees
- Anti squat of 2 degrees
- Losi long green springs set to 28mm ride height
- Camber of -1.5 degrees
- Two hub spacers behind the hub, one in front
- 2.3mm (thin) swaybar
- 56 piston with 25wt Losi shock fluid
- max droop
- Camber link set to top middle hole on shock tower and the inside of hub
- Lower shock at #2 (inside)
- Upper shock at #2 (middle)
- 2000 wt Losi diff fluid

Tires:
For dry, dusty tracks with low traction I'll use AKA I-Beam in soft compound. On watered, loamy tracks I'll use AKA Crossbrace in medium compound. On hard-packed, high traction tracks, I'll run AKA Gridirons in soft or medium compound. Lastly, for a general purpose practice tire I run AKA Cityblock in medium compound.

If you need to add more steering the first thing I'd do is move the rear hubs all the way back by putting all three spacers in front of the hub. You can also switch to a thinner sway bar in front. Just be sure to make one change at a time and see how it affects your car's performance.

Hope this help!
im still reading your post, but it's the 2.0 electric converted tekno chassis
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:12 PM   #18
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What pistons are included in the Losa5440 piston set?
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