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Old 08-15-2009, 09:23 AM   #1
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Default how to tell if your diff has to much slop??

not with shimming, with the gears themselves. i just cleaned and replaced the fluids. Now, if i hold both outdrives with one hand and turn the conical or diff housing with the other (locking the diff). I noticed one had just a tick of play while the other had a little more.


so. How much is too much? How do know when to replace the gears?


Mugen6 diffs, 5k weight, 5 gallons on them.


I obviously don't want to run it if there is a chance that it could take a dump.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:45 AM   #2
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not with shimming, with the gears themselves. i just cleaned and replaced the fluids. Now, if i hold both outdrives with one hand and turn the conical or diff housing with the other (locking the diff). I noticed one had just a tick of play while the other had a little more.


so. How much is too much? How do know when to replace the gears?


Mugen6 diffs, 5k weight, 5 gallons on them.


I obviously don't want to run it if there is a chance that it could take a dump.
You've had to question it...... So it's time to replace them.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:56 AM   #3
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You've had to question it...... So it's time to replace them.
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If i don't have too, i would rather not. I think if i put the s3 orings in there it should be fine you think?
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Old 08-15-2009, 04:42 PM   #4
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I'm not sure what gears your talking about?

If your talking about the side gears having too much play on the spider gears inside the diff, You can put an extra shim on the spider gears. But I wouldn't, I just shim the ring and pinion.
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Old 08-15-2009, 05:07 PM   #5
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if you have thinner gaskets, start by assembling the diff (dry) with 1 gasket, it should lock or be very hard to spin. add 1 gasket at a time until there is minimal clicking by spinning both outdrives. another way is if you have an old cvd you can use as a drill bit. what i do is holding the cup use the drill in the outdrive to spin the diff internally. do it for about 30 seconds on each side, the holding the cup again and spinning one side push the other spinning out drive as hard as you can against a piece of wood (ie table, shelf) so it cuts a gauges in the wood. if the diff cuts and cuts it should be good. if it locks up the gears are too loose and need more internal shimming or less gaskets. what this does is puts force on both outdrives, not the same as actually driving, but close enough if they lock you know you have an issue. i have done this with all my diffs this year and have had no diff failures since. hope this helps.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:08 PM   #6
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if you have thinner gaskets, start by assembling the diff (dry) with 1 gasket, it should lock or be very hard to spin. add 1 gasket at a time until there is minimal clicking by spinning both outdrives. another way is if you have an old cvd you can use as a drill bit. what i do is holding the cup use the drill in the outdrive to spin the diff internally. do it for about 30 seconds on each side, the holding the cup again and spinning one side push the other spinning out drive as hard as you can against a piece of wood (ie table, shelf) so it cuts a gauges in the wood. if the diff cuts and cuts it should be good. if it locks up the gears are too loose and need more internal shimming or less gaskets. what this does is puts force on both outdrives, not the same as actually driving, but close enough if they lock you know you have an issue. i have done this with all my diffs this year and have had no diff failures since. hope this helps.
very interesting thanx. and when you say "if the diffs lock up" do you mean it keeps the drill from turning?
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:14 PM   #7
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I would just build the diff per the instructions. Most diffs are idiot proof these days.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:18 PM   #8
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I would just build the diff per the instructions. Most diffs are idiot proof these days.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:20 PM   #9
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Hey, I resemble that remark!
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:24 PM   #10
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I would just build the diff per the instructions. Most diffs are idiot proof these days.
its not about that. I can build them blindfolded. They have over five gallons and just want to know how much they should be wearing.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:33 PM   #11
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If the internal gears look good and not severely worn just run it, worst case a diff will fail then you will have to fix it. If you are worried about it for an important race, get new internal gears. I would replace the small roll pins that key to the back of the big internal gears. I have seen those break after running for a long time. The outdrives are worn when there is a notch from the drive axle
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by j_blaze14 View Post
if you have thinner gaskets, start by assembling the diff (dry) with 1 gasket, it should lock or be very hard to spin. add 1 gasket at a time until there is minimal clicking by spinning both outdrives. another way is if you have an old cvd you can use as a drill bit. what i do is holding the cup use the drill in the outdrive to spin the diff internally. do it for about 30 seconds on each side, the holding the cup again and spinning one side push the other spinning out drive as hard as you can against a piece of wood (ie table, shelf) so it cuts a gauges in the wood. if the diff cuts and cuts it should be good. if it locks up the gears are too loose and need more internal shimming or less gaskets. what this does is puts force on both outdrives, not the same as actually driving, but close enough if they lock you know you have an issue. i have done this with all my diffs this year and have had no diff failures since. hope this helps.
Either this is a joke or you need to throw away those Caster cars and get just about anything else.


Dreaux, stop worrying so much. Build per the instructions and keep the car clean. If the diffs or anything else is too sloppy to be worth running, it'll be obvious, you won't need to ask. It's a Mugen.
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