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Old 08-12-2009, 05:52 PM   #1
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Default Easy differential rebuilding

Is there a guide for easy access to the differentials on 1/8 buggys. When I get to the differentials and start rebuilding them it goes smooth and fast but its just taking out all the screws and parts just to gain access to them. I rebuilt the diffs last night on my mbx5r and it took me about 4 hours. I was wondering if there were any shortcuts or tips that would be helpful or if there were some buggys that were easier than others.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:54 PM   #2
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Use an electric drill. It usually takes me 4-5 hours to throughally clean and refill the diffs, its just part of maintence.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:08 PM   #3
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yea electric driver would definitely decrease maintenance time by a lot. before i had mine, i would feel like i spent forever doing maintenance on my cars. now it's really easy. a part of doing maintenance quickly too is coming up with a system or method that you can use on how you take a part your car and put it back together. once you have everything down, you'll be taking your car apart and be putting it together in a matter of several hours instead of 3 nights lol.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by kelvinml View Post
Is there a guide for easy access to the differentials on 1/8 buggys. When I get to the differentials and start rebuilding them it goes smooth and fast but its just taking out all the screws and parts just to gain access to them. I rebuilt the diffs last night on my mbx5r and it took me about 4 hours. I was wondering if there were any shortcuts or tips that would be helpful or if there were some buggys that were easier than others.
That is a long time! I can service all three in about an hour and a half in my MBX6 taking my time!

I remove the wheels and shocks so the buggy stays flat. Then use an old allen wrench to clean out the screw heads so the proper size will fit. Leave the sway bars attached to the diff case and loosen them at the arms so you can pull the case and sway bar off as one. Use needle nose pliers to hold the lock nuts and take out the hinge pins. Pull the diff and check for play in the bearings. I take the diff apart and stuff paper towels into the gears and rotate the outdrive by hand so it kicks the oil into the paper towel. refill and reinstall. once the diff is back in the case, I'll apply a little grease to the gears. I don't really clean the inside of the cases though unless there is a lot of dirt.

For the center diff, I remove the fuel tank and lines and wash in water with Dawn dishsoap and a paint brush. Remove the servo horn from the servo and carb and let it ride with the top diff mount so I don't have to reset my brakes later, then remove the top half of the mount for the center diff and wash all the parts. Inspect diff bearings, and rebuild the center diff the same as the front and rear, minus the grease.

Before I put the fuel tank back in the car, I hook up the fuel lines and throw a little fuel in the tank and swish around making sure there is no water left in the lines or the tank.

One nice thing about racing is usually somebody at the track has an air compressor, so I alway try to keep my car clean between practicing, rounds and after the main if possible.

Hope that helps!
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:08 PM   #5
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never heard of putting paper towels in the diff housing to remove the grease. Do you just stuff the paper inside the spider gears and put the crown and conical gear back together to soak it up? sounds like a good idea.

also never heard of putting grease on the gears. I assume you are talking about the bevel and conical. mine have almost no wear and i have never put grease in 5 gallons. what are the benifits of this?

good info. Anyone got any more??

I work alot so my buggy is broken down for a couple days a week so i can run on the weekends. Any ways to streamline is always nice
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:25 PM   #6
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never heard of putting paper towels in the diff housing to remove the grease. Do you just stuff the paper inside the spider gears and put the crown and conical gear back together to soak it up? sounds like a good idea.

also never heard of putting grease on the gears. I assume you are talking about the bevel and conical. mine have almost no wear and i have never put grease in 5 gallons. what are the benifits of this?

good info. Anyone got any more??

I work alot so my buggy is broken down for a couple days a week so i can run on the weekends. Any ways to streamline is always nice
Stuff the paper towel in and rotate the drive cup with the gears still inside the diff, don't put the diff back together with the paper towels inside as you'd probably jam it up. Find a clean spot on the paper towel and repeat if necessary. Usually takes 2-3 times depending on how much fluid is in the diff. Doing it this way, you shouldn't have to take the internal gears out very often, minimizing tuning time.

I wouldn't call this rebuilding a diff, but more of a faster way of tuning I guess. Not sure, I need to read the manual, but I believe Mugen recommends grease on the gears.
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:28 PM   #7
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I've found those little medical clamp/scissor looking deals hold the nuts good and give you a free hand to work with...slmost sounds dirty lol
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:40 PM   #8
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i just need to get more organized. You do not want to see my wrenching area
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:16 PM   #9
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Just using a paper towel wont completely get all of the grease out. I take all the gears out and the o rigns and bearings, oil the bearings, clean the o rigns and DONT put them in any type of fluid as that will puff them up and not make a good seal. I put all the gears and case in V&M Namptha in a closed container and shake the bottle for 30 seconds. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease to lube the o rings and use it anywhere dirt can get it, i.e. o rings, sun gear, etc. Then I use Losi black grease to coat the external gears, it just helps with longevity of the gears.
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