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Old 08-12-2009, 04:25 AM   #31
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If its back together, I'd clean it up and ebay it!

Save up and get a nice Mugen truggy.
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builtb16a View Post
ok update.

i went to the LHS, and explained my frustration. and the store managers answer was, "maybe that engine wont fit in your truck..."

my jaw dropped. and i asked, well... why did you sell me that engine. and why did you sell me a truck. its not like i bought all my shit on ebay, and im coming to you with my problems.. this is stuff you sold me. and i can't make any sense of buying cases and motors because the mounts aren't right. i asked, this XTM truggy, your telling me there isn't an option for more power, more performance.. only replacement XTM motors.. which are JUNK... why would you sell me a hop up engine.

he kinda gave up, but the store supervisor, a off road nitro veteran, stepped in before i got buck wild up in the store.

i explained my problems and how im breaking these case mounts.. twice. and showed him a ground down modified mount, these RC8 moutns, and how the RC8 fits soo much better than the XTM slider style mounts..

its kinda hard to explain, but on that axial block, right next to the backing plate, is a raised edge from the cast. my option was to grind that down, or oblong the mounting holes on the case ear. EITHER WAY, ONCE THE GOOD CASE BREAKS, IVE MODIFIED IT, AND IM SHIT-OUT-OF-LUCK!

so i refused to take that answer. he installed the smallest collet he could find. used about 5 shims on the outer clutch bell housing, and it was SUPER close to fitting. it was on the outer edge of the clutch bell, and barley flush, so we went option 2. XTM mounts bolted up to the hump near the backing plate, and had to move the bell the other way. basically opposite.

so after understanding what he was trying to do.. and what i was doing before (just grinding down the inside to get over the hump) i took the handy dremel, and notched about 4MM out of the inner side of the mount on each side, near the back, in order for the mount to clear the hump.

that worked. and so far, so good. the store sup. had to bust out his personal tools, find shims.. a different collet, and well, about an hour of his time, to work on this motor. (not that he wasn't getting paid) but atleast he felt my frustration, and the store managers answer of "you bought the wrong motor"...

i'll post pics of my modified mounts, and how its sitting on the spur tomorrow. im glad i got this under control, and i can start enjoying this .28 instead of kicking rocks, and beating my dog.lol
Your LHS person is full of it

Like I said earlier if the motor is interfearing with the mounts Ofna has shims that you can put between them to solve this problem
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Old 08-12-2009, 01:24 PM   #33
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you have a link on these shims? still might be worth while to add just for peace of mind.

but looking at the shinny parts, and understanding just how far back the mount had to sit on the motor to hit the spur just right, im sure that hump on the case is what caused the mount to bind and add extra stress on those mount ears.

here's my pics now..







its kinda hard to see how the mount goes over the hump in the case, but it does.. and after 1/2 a tank of neighborhood bashing, no marks of rubbing on the case like those other poster with the same ear snap in his axial motor. so im pretty confident in the fix.. if this breaks now.. i'll prolly stick with the 80 dollar XTM 24.7 motor. what a load of shit.
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:48 PM   #34
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built -

Glad you got it worked out. Its the little things - I would focus some attention on the flywheel and collet - there is way to much space in my opinion and I'd hate to see you bend your crank or wear out your front bearing by allowing dirt and dust to get into it prematurely.

Really glad that your out having fun again !!!
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:47 AM   #35
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yeah, thats my next step, the flywheel distance. only problem, im going to have to shim the hell out of the flywheel nut, and get that bell housing close to the end of the crank to reach that spur. they're will be a gap between the flywheel and clutch bell. oh well.

so here's my finished mounts.



and here's my cracked case with the ears JB Welded. after it cures, i'll take a pic, and see if its road worthy..


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Old 08-13-2009, 03:41 AM   #36
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Call or Email Nitrohouse
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:46 PM   #37
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Here is a 3 shoe set up that will take up some of that space and also prevent you from having to use a ton of shims. They have them in 4 shoe to, this is just an example:



From HPI you can get the flywheel and collet for 10 bucks.
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Old 08-14-2009, 01:40 AM   #38
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yeah, i have no choice but to use the larger collet, and have a decent gap between the flywheel and case.

i tried using a smaller collet, and once i got everything sinched down, i had to shim the bell to reach the spur.. but i was showing clutches, so i couldn't use the smaller collet.

i got both motors back in service.. but we'll see tomorrow if my JB Weld case is air tight. cross your fingers.

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Old 08-14-2009, 09:00 PM   #39
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I dont know if this is your issue but it can be looked into. If the motor mount wedges against the case side wall when the mount is tightened to the motor it will put a huge amount of stress on the engine block. Then when mounted to the chassis it puts even more stress on engine block. Therefore when your truck has a hard landing or crash or contact on top of head---snap and it is broken. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:44 AM   #40
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yeah it helps.. but im in a catch right now. i have no other choice. so i'll see what happens, take my chances, and hope for the best.

after this.. im going back to a factory engine. cheap.. but reliable.
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