FUEL MILEAGE................
#1
FUEL MILEAGE................
OK we all have the guy at the track who gets 10+ minutes w/30% fuel)under race conditions but he is super smooth and kicks our asses every week.....SOOOOOOOOOO for us other 99% that are throttle junkies and cant get any more than 7-8 minutes on a good day. What about running LOWER nitro %(10-15% is what I am thinking), dropping the deck height WAY down and running a hot ass plug a.k.a.OS P3/LC3 or equivalent to keep a decent idle/bottom end cleaned up . thats my thoughts... what are yours........ I am talking OS V-spec, JX-21, etc...
#2
OK we all have the guy at the track who gets 10+ minutes w/30% fuel)under race conditions but he is super smooth and kicks our asses every week.....SOOOOOOOOOO for us other 99% that are throttle junkies and cant get any more than 7-8 minutes on a good day. What about running LOWER nitro %(10-15% is what I am thinking), dropping the deck height WAY down and running a hot ass plug a.k.a.OS P3/LC3 or equivalent to keep a decent idle/bottom end cleaned up . thats my thoughts... what are yours........ I am talking OS V-spec, JX-21, etc...
#4
Lower nitro will improve mileage and usually doesn't take away as much power as most of the other mileage tricks like smaller carb venturi, gearing, etc.
Another option, has anyone teched that guys tank
Another option, has anyone teched that guys tank
#5
im running a Mugen Ninja jx 21 and nitro juice 30% fuel and im getting right at 10 min
#6
OK we all have the guy at the track who gets 10+ minutes w/30% fuel)under race conditions but he is super smooth and kicks our asses every week.....SOOOOOOOOOO for us other 99% that are throttle junkies and cant get any more than 7-8 minutes on a good day. What about running LOWER nitro %(10-15% is what I am thinking), dropping the deck height WAY down and running a hot ass plug a.k.a.OS P3/LC3 or equivalent to keep a decent idle/bottom end cleaned up . thats my thoughts... what are yours........ I am talking OS V-spec, JX-21, etc...
#7
Yeah and your probbaly one of those guys who drives like a pussy and still kicks everyones ass right?????? LOL J/K man............ Lets see. I have a JX-21, Have 8mm venturi, have EB Mods Button V1, will get a couple P4's and I have a 2060. Gonna get a gallon of 20%, lean the Beejesus out of it and try it tommorrow......Will report back......
#8
+1 i was out at 10 with 30%...but to get 10 min pits you need to get 11 or more... When i went to 20% i picked up about 90 seconds, and didn't loose much if any power... I did notice the throttle response wasn't as crisp but i think that actually helped my driving.. Lower Nitro content will also be a little harder to tune.
#9
Yeah and your probbaly one of those guys who drives like a pussy and still kicks everyones ass right?????? LOL J/K man............ Lets see. I have a JX-21, Have 8mm venturi, have EB Mods Button V1, will get a couple P4's and I have a 2060. Gonna get a gallon of 20%, lean the Beejesus out of it and try it tommorrow......Will report back......
#11
yeah grabbing a hand full down the straight doesnt help much.
#12
This is a good thread
Run your engine on FAI fuel (0 nitro) and you will be surprised! +25% longer mileage compared to 25% nitro, less corrosion on the crank and bearings and a lot cheaper fuel costs!
Remove the head shims (measure the clearance between TDC and head: Min. 0.25 mm.) to increase the compression ratio.
A normal pro engine has a compression ratio around 8,5:1. To get the perfect ratio on FAI fuel, it should be 13,5:1. You will have to remove some material from the head. But start with only removing the head shims. I'm not sure, if you can get a turbo plug which is hot enough for FAI fuel. Try the Sirio #5.
I've run a well used RB WS7 II engine on FAI fuel, normal head, and 4 stroke plug with big success. I only removed the shims (clearance 0,3 mm). At a race NO ONE could tell the difference in my engine performance (acceleration and top speed) compared to all the others with 25 or 30 % nitro - except I did +10 min pr tank compared all others max 8 min.
I mix my own fuel. Use 16% synth oil. You will have to use more oil compared to "normal" car fuel due to the low fuel flow, when you engine can do so long mileage.
I'm surprised that RB's team drivers at Euro 2009 ran on 45% nitro... Nice to have sponsores
Run your engine on FAI fuel (0 nitro) and you will be surprised! +25% longer mileage compared to 25% nitro, less corrosion on the crank and bearings and a lot cheaper fuel costs!
Remove the head shims (measure the clearance between TDC and head: Min. 0.25 mm.) to increase the compression ratio.
A normal pro engine has a compression ratio around 8,5:1. To get the perfect ratio on FAI fuel, it should be 13,5:1. You will have to remove some material from the head. But start with only removing the head shims. I'm not sure, if you can get a turbo plug which is hot enough for FAI fuel. Try the Sirio #5.
I've run a well used RB WS7 II engine on FAI fuel, normal head, and 4 stroke plug with big success. I only removed the shims (clearance 0,3 mm). At a race NO ONE could tell the difference in my engine performance (acceleration and top speed) compared to all the others with 25 or 30 % nitro - except I did +10 min pr tank compared all others max 8 min.
I mix my own fuel. Use 16% synth oil. You will have to use more oil compared to "normal" car fuel due to the low fuel flow, when you engine can do so long mileage.
I'm surprised that RB's team drivers at Euro 2009 ran on 45% nitro... Nice to have sponsores
#13
i totally agreed on ron's post on the straight way just stay 3/4 throttle it really helps .............try to change the venturi 6.5 or 7.0 & it will improve ......but if still dont work that way lol....... last solution ........you got to limit your EPA throttle hope it helps
#14
This is a good thread
Run your engine on FAI fuel (0 nitro) and you will be surprised! +25% longer mileage compared to 25% nitro, less corrosion on the crank and bearings and a lot cheaper fuel costs!
Remove the head shims (measure the clearance between TDC and head: Min. 0.25 mm.) to increase the compression ratio.
A normal pro engine has a compression ratio around 8,5:1. To get the perfect ratio on FAI fuel, it should be 13,5:1. You will have to remove some material from the head. But start with only removing the head shims. I'm not sure, if you can get a turbo plug which is hot enough for FAI fuel. Try the Sirio #5.
I've run a well used RB WS7 II engine on FAI fuel, normal head, and 4 stroke plug with big success. I only removed the shims (clearance 0,3 mm). At a race NO ONE could tell the difference in my engine performance (acceleration and top speed) compared to all the others with 25 or 30 % nitro - except I did +10 min pr tank compared all others max 8 min.
I mix my own fuel. Use 16% synth oil. You will have to use more oil compared to "normal" car fuel due to the low fuel flow, when you engine can do so long mileage.
I'm surprised that RB's team drivers at Euro 2009 ran on 45% nitro... Nice to have sponsores
Run your engine on FAI fuel (0 nitro) and you will be surprised! +25% longer mileage compared to 25% nitro, less corrosion on the crank and bearings and a lot cheaper fuel costs!
Remove the head shims (measure the clearance between TDC and head: Min. 0.25 mm.) to increase the compression ratio.
A normal pro engine has a compression ratio around 8,5:1. To get the perfect ratio on FAI fuel, it should be 13,5:1. You will have to remove some material from the head. But start with only removing the head shims. I'm not sure, if you can get a turbo plug which is hot enough for FAI fuel. Try the Sirio #5.
I've run a well used RB WS7 II engine on FAI fuel, normal head, and 4 stroke plug with big success. I only removed the shims (clearance 0,3 mm). At a race NO ONE could tell the difference in my engine performance (acceleration and top speed) compared to all the others with 25 or 30 % nitro - except I did +10 min pr tank compared all others max 8 min.
I mix my own fuel. Use 16% synth oil. You will have to use more oil compared to "normal" car fuel due to the low fuel flow, when you engine can do so long mileage.
I'm surprised that RB's team drivers at Euro 2009 ran on 45% nitro... Nice to have sponsores
I've tried 0% with 10% synth and 5% castor, first of all it is almost impossible to start the car even with the p4 plug and no shims and when it does start after the 100th attempt the idle is very erratic. I mix about 5 to 8% nitro and that really stabilizes (comparatively) the idle still the tuning window is pretty small and almost the same fuel mileage as 0%.
#15
I've tried 0% with 10% synth and 5% castor, first of all it is almost impossible to start the car even with the p4 plug and no shims and when it does start after the 100th attempt the idle is very erratic. I mix about 5 to 8% nitro and that really stabilizes (comparatively) the idle still the tuning window is pretty small and almost the same fuel mileage as 0%.
You didn't have a hot enough plug. I'm 99% positive, that that will solve the issues (I have tried it myself on a normal plug engine). And ones the ignition is right, your engine will go +1 minutes longer, and have absolute no problem with start, idle etc etc
Last edited by Lille-bror; 08-04-2009 at 04:05 AM.