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Old 08-04-2009, 04:58 AM   #16
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I drive 16% nitro and drives around 10minutes on one tank. I think that is fair enough for me.
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:09 AM   #17
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what Engine is the other guy running?

My OS Speed Worlds -I get 12 min per tank and I pit at 10 mins, last stop at 11

My Standard Vpsec I get 11 mins, and pit at 9 mins

My mod vspec I get 13 mins and I pit at 12 mins

I am a hard wide open driver and run RE11 or 053 pipes with little difference in run time and I run Byrons 30% fuel

Also you have to look at your tune. I tune my engines for the brink of destructionthey all run 230 -240 ish, I have seen guys run the same set up and get 7 mins becasue he was running fat, but thats what he felt comfortable with........ There are a bunch of varibles to getting good run time.....
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by token View Post
what Engine is the other guy running?

My OS Speed Worlds -I get 12 min per tank and I pit at 10 mins, last stop at 11

My Standard Vpsec I get 11 mins, and pit at 9 mins

My mod vspec I get 13 mins and I pit at 12 mins

I am a hard wide open driver and run RE11 or 053 pipes with little difference in run time and I run Byrons 30% fuel

Also you have to look at your tune. I tune my engines for the brink of destructionthey all run 230 -240 ish, I have seen guys run the same set up and get 7 mins becasue he was running fat, but thats what he felt comfortable with........ There are a bunch of varibles to getting good run time.....
Exactly, my pit man will not let me get 10 minutes on a tank because he knows i run wide open so he richens it every time i'm not looking, otherwise i would lean'er til she blew. Plus when i get too much power i do more side to side driving than running in a straight line.
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:29 AM   #19
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Plus when i get too much power i do more side to side driving than running in a straight line.

+1 - tooo much power sucks, even on a .21
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:50 AM   #20
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Could it be that many drivers gives to much power out of the corners? As bgbelden writes, it gives a lot side to side driving and a lot of wheel spin instead of acceleration.
Go for the highest gear ratio as possible without the engine runs hot. The engine shall be able to come up in max RPM in the end of the straight.
Stop the idle-throttle-idle-throttle-idle-throttle in the corners. Slowly increase the throttle instead, like almost every on-road drivers do. Again, smoother driving and better mileage
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Old 08-04-2009, 03:31 PM   #21
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lower nitro, bigger bell, softer springs and the right pipe. it takes a couple tnaks of testing to find the right pipe usually. what has worked for me is throw on the 053 and get the tune dead on. let it cool and throw on another pipe, without re-tuning if the new pipe is richer/fatter than the 053 it usually gives better mileage, if the motor is lean and overheating try another pipe.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:19 AM   #22
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i totally agreed on ron's post on the straight way just stay 3/4 throttle it really helps .............try to change the venturi 6.5 or 7.0 & it will improve ......but if still dont work that way lol....... last solution ........you got to limit your EPA throttle hope it helps
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+1 I set my epa so that the carb only about 80%, I've kind of a "lead finger" no matter what I'll press the throttle all the way on a straight so if the epa is set to 80% open then thats the max it opens.
I find it very hard to tune an engine, if you don’t run it WOT. If the carburator only opens 80%, you will most likely set the HSN too lean. A carburator is not designed to only open 80%. You will end up - close to - only drive on the LSN tune.

From my knowledge from plane engines, you will only have a few hundred extra RPM at WOT compared to 95% open barrel. Go for a smaller venturi instead.

A guy here in Denmark runs a sweeeeet Axe Rossi .25 in his truggy. It is a COMPLETE powerhouse. In fact too much power. He now uses a 5 mm restrictor and gets +10 pr. tank.
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Last edited by Lille-bror; 08-07-2009 at 03:30 AM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:25 PM   #23
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i know its gnna be off the topic so lille-bror do you think the pro-driver s are (they) setting up there throttle epa to 100% ?? cause you mention about 95% & if i do that honestly my servo tray is moving (bad )i think thats not normal & i dont want to brake my throttle servo horn im currently using hitec 7985 for th/brk ,what you think? sorry if i ask i guess im still learning
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:49 PM   #24
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I siwtched to Torco and had considerable increase in runtime, along with that I changed the venturi,learned how to be smoother(like the cat that is whoopin up on ya) and after about 3 race nights and some dilligent practice I got the smooth feel down. +1 on the long straight trick too you could prob save a lap of fuel in a race with just a few simple changes in your style of driving and them are free tools to life.I am no expert but I did pay attention. Red Dragons
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbx5rcr34 View Post
i know its gnna be off the topic so lille-bror do you think the pro-driver s are (they) setting up there throttle epa to 100% ?? cause you mention about 95% & if i do that honestly my servo tray is moving (bad )i think thats not normal & i dont want to brake my throttle servo horn im currently using hitec 7985 for th/brk ,what you think? sorry if i ask i guess im still learning
No not radio EPA. 100% throttle opening. How much the carb is opening. I set mine so only a hair of the barrel is left showing in the carb when I have my trigger pulled all the way the carb opens allmost 100% (almost completly) but still has some room to move when the chassis flexes.

To get 98% throttle opening my epa is only 56%. It depends on the length of your servo arm etc.


Setting your throttle opening to not open all the way is not a good idea for fuel mileage. Like said above it takes away your carbs ability to be properly tuned across its entire rev range. You end up with a low needle tune.

If you want less throttle opening, use a smaller venturi.
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Old 08-07-2009, 09:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
No not radio EPA. 100% throttle opening. How much the carb is opening. I set mine so only a hair of the barrel is left showing in the carb when I have my trigger pulled all the way the carb opens allmost 100% (almost completly) but still has some room to move when the chassis flexes.

To get 98% throttle opening my epa is only 56%. It depends on the length of your servo arm etc.


Setting your throttle opening to not open all the way is not a good idea for fuel mileage. Like said above it takes away your carbs ability to be properly tuned across its entire rev range. You end up with a low needle tune.

If you want less throttle opening, use a smaller venturi.


+1 i hear the "turn down your EPA" for fuel economy discussion's all the time and i just shake my head.
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:42 PM   #27
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Thanks Zerodefect.

I think that was the answer mbx5rcr34 was looking for

I've never had a carburator which I didn't set to open 100%. If you set it only just to open 100% you will still be able to drag it further out (0,5 mm or so). That is at least the case 15 years ago and on the RB WS7 II I ran this summer.
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:56 AM   #28
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thks for that info. i just learn something again ...............
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:26 AM   #29
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Just be careful, when you pull full throttle on your radio, your carb should open almost all the way, BUT make sure at full throttle you can grab the throttle wire/eyelet/ linkage thingy and pull it a little more.

If your too close to the mechanical limit of the carb, the when your chassis twists it'll pull your barrel out more, too hard and destroy the carb.

If thats the case then you can reduce epa a little to prevent damage.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:39 AM   #30
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if you are really concerned about pulling the carb too far,mount a small piece of fuel tubing on your linkage,just like what is on the brake linkage.just gives your servo a little cushion.
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