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Old 08-03-2009, 08:15 AM   #16
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There is also a thread on mugen website.
Try to blow through the fuel outlet while putting water in it. It should start to bubble half way up on the outlet tube that's in the tank( a crack maybe)
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:11 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by lalmog91 View Post
i have a mbx6 and my car would only stall if i was flipped over for a while then hit the gas once unflipped. Or during a pit stop and the tank was overfilled or something. i put in a longer pressure line and the problems disappeared. Now i am running about 7 inches of pressure line. hope this helps.
That is almost exactly what happened to mine, minus the pitstop part. I will try the extra pressure line though! Thanks for all the answers everyone
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:28 AM   #18
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i believe i have the same problem. at 1/2 tank or so it starts ideling really high and when i fill it it goes back to normal. and after 1/2 tank it lean bogs on the bottom bad. so how have they been modifying them
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:28 PM   #19
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i believe i have the same problem. at 1/2 tank or so it starts ideling really high and when i fill it it goes back to normal. and after 1/2 tank it lean bogs on the bottom bad. so how have they been modifying them
Try richening your LSN a little bit. FWIW, the only cars that won't stall after a while upside down are the Losi and the HB D8, they have clunks in their tanks like airplanes, all the others (that I know of) have tanks with pickups in the bottom/rear. If you're upside down with less than a full tank the engine is running on just what's in the fuel line.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:44 PM   #20
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The MBX6 buggy i seen having this problem went through 3 tanks, everytime he installed a new 1 it would run perfect for about 2-3 tank runs then start having the same problem, what we noticed was the tank was hitting the top plate alot so we added foam to protect it and i believe he added some under the tank also. after doing this he hasnt had any issues in the last 3 races (knock on wood). By the way no one is bashing mbx6 this is a problem that is happening alot. Oh and he is happy with this buggy now!
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:08 PM   #21
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i know how to tune and the engine is fine when in any other vehicl i have. and its not upside down when i have a problem.
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:51 PM   #22
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The MBX6 buggy i seen having this problem went through 3 tanks, everytime he installed a new 1 it would run perfect for about 2-3 tank runs then start having the same problem, what we noticed was the tank was hitting the top plate alot so we added foam to protect it and i believe he added some under the tank also. after doing this he hasnt had any issues in the last 3 races (knock on wood). By the way no one is bashing mbx6 this is a problem that is happening alot. Oh and he is happy with this buggy now!
Exactly what i was going to type.

Some of you make me laugh!! Just because you never had any trouble does not mean there is no problem. I run with the same guy Brandon spoke about and that is what we did to fix the problem. We also trimmed the pipe mount that hits the tand and put some foam under the tank to keep it from "wobbling" so much.

You guys have to understand, these tanks could be from a different run, it could be the types of tracks they are run on ie. large jumps, hard clay etc. Some tracks are just harder on equipment.

I think the Mugen is BadAss car and my bro is way better with it. It was an issue and we solved it, that is what we and some others are here trying to help. Everyone saying "I have no problems" etc...that isn't helping the guys that are. A VERY fast TEAM MUGEN driver has been working with my bro on this...so it IS a problem. All cars have something and some have the problem and some DO NOT...Why?? I don't know the exact answer...No one is BASHING the brand, just trying to help fix the problem. We went almost 2 months and it was frustrating.

The main item I would like to stress here. The tanks we had trouble with did not last long, sometimes only a couple full tanks....so we were chasing others possibilities because we thought for sure it was not the tank. We even would test the tank and see no leaks, but we figured once the car/tank warmed up???? it had some leaking somewhere (this was frustrating!!!!!!) Once we modded the tank and pipe mount, installed Brand new tank, all has been good for 2 race weekends now. We tried 3 motors everything, so save some time if you are having this problem:

Get a new tank
Gring the pipe mount for more clearance and install foam between the tank
Put foam tape around the edge of the top plate
Put foam under the tank, just enough to stabilize the tank a little more. NOT SOLID!! Just stiffen a little.
We do not know for sure, but we also ran the fuel and exhaust lines just like Savoya does (Long).

All is good now.

Funny thing, I drive AE..LOL I just wanted to help you guys save some time.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:07 PM   #23
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Did you guys have issues no matter how the car was sitting? I have only had issues when the car flips over. Thanks for all this awesome info though!
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:30 PM   #24
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Did you guys have issues no matter how the car was sitting? I have only had issues when the car flips over. Thanks for all this awesome info though!

That originally was a problem. We chalked that one up the shorter pressure line. Not sure if that is THE fix due to all the things we tried, but it has not happen EVER since we did the longer "Savoya" fuel line routing.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:34 PM   #25
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pl, Yes he did at first, so he made it a clunker tank, thought he had it solved when testing in the yard flipped it on the lid let sit for awhile then flipped it back no problem, but come race day after running a few tanks problem came back, so what speed said they did to the tank it seems to be working.

Hope this helps, Happy Motoring!
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:30 PM   #26
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Just change to Mugen MBX 6 and the car is reliable.........fuel tank too.......not have an issue with the tank at all. So far it been consistent.

1. But becareful with the stopper which connect to a wire ( exhaust ) if it gets loosen you might crack the tank...................check frequently...........if there's a hairline crack, it might lead to problems.

2. The fuel lid cover................it might not be able to close properly due to the sitting position is not proper. to ensure it is good........get a hobby knife........and cut some material off from the inside of the lid ( at the rear of it ) becareful not to remove excessive........remove little by little till it sit firmly. I am bad at words............can post a picture if those need a better understanding.

Previous car D8, even had the fuel line check and recheck but the issue lingers on. Very inconsistent in track with a lot of jumps............could be the design. Fuel filter jumping around inside when it's half tank.......and worse when it falls below. Destroy 2 OS speed engine because of it........rectify it by using a Xray 808 tank.

Just my thought.

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Old 08-03-2009, 06:42 PM   #27
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So i was taking a look at my car and i also noticed just how friggin close the front center driveshaft sits next to the tank. I just put a new tank on my car Saturday afternoon and i can already see where it left a little residue from the driveshaft. Kinda scary close if you ask me lol...anyone else ever notice this?
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:02 PM   #28
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Im more concerned about the other parts touching the tank so I used a small torch, heated the area [top plate and clutch area] and pressed it in a tad with a rounded head from a srewdriver, also filed the pipe mount down.

I did the clutch area on the tank so I can use a Losi clutch...... [old stock]
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:12 PM   #29
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Im still trying to figure out the top plate deal, my tank isnt even high enough to actually hit the top plate, but it could touch the steering post if it flexed super hard. Startin to think maybe they updated the tanks or something...cuz i see no way it could actually hit the top plate. I really want to get to the track lol and test out some of these ideas!
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:24 PM   #30
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Yes, the tank can smack the steering post with the seamline, which is why I recommend grinding away a small amount of the steering post; I feel this is better than foam, which can cause binding.

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