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Old 07-27-2009, 11:39 AM   #1
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Default MBX6T tire/wheel questions...

So yeah, I’m a little new I guess in terms of really fine tuning performance in my stuff so I had some pretty dumb questions….

I have a Mugen MBX6T, and right now I am just running a set of Panther Raptors on it. Most of the tracks we have around here have that really “polished concrete” surface to them. They blow off the track between every round, and it seems like the tires I use don’t quite work.

Most people I see locally run Cityblocks, or a combination of Cityblocks/I-Beams. I think my Mugen has 0” offset hubs or something. I’m not sure what this means, but I need to order some tires soon, so what would you suggest in terms of combination/compound? I want a compound that would work well all around if I can. Also, what specifically do I need in terms of wheels? I’d really like to get them pre-mounted.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:47 AM   #2
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Tires-Medium-2
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:48 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13 View Post
So yeah, I’m a little new I guess in terms of really fine tuning performance in my stuff so I had some pretty dumb questions….

I have a Mugen MBX6T, and right now I am just running a set of Panther Raptors on it. Most of the tracks we have around here have that really “polished concrete” surface to them. They blow off the track between every round, and it seems like the tires I use don’t quite work.

Most people I see locally run Cityblocks, or a combination of Cityblocks/I-Beams. I think my Mugen has 0” offset hubs or something. I’m not sure what this means, but I need to order some tires soon, so what would you suggest in terms of combination/compound? I want a compound that would work well all around if I can. Also, what specifically do I need in terms of wheels? I’d really like to get them pre-mounted.
If you want premounts with minimal hassle, the AKA city blocks, grid irons, and I-beams all come premounted on zero offset wheels. These are what I use on my MBX-6T. Thumbs up on the city blocks. The work on almost any surface. Quick question though, is what you are referring to as "polished concrete" as a result of rubber being laid onto the dirt? We call this blue groove. Any tire with a small pins will work on this, although they will get chewed up rather quickly. My suggestion of AKA premounts is simply because they are nearly perfectly balanced straight out of the package and should be virtually wobble-free.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:53 AM   #4
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If you want premounts with minimal hassle, the AKA city blocks, grid irons, and I-beams all come premounted on zero offset wheels. These are what I use on my MBX-6T. Thumbs up on the city blocks. The work on almost any surface. Quick question though, is what you are referring to as "polished concrete" as a result of rubber being laid onto the dirt? We call this blue groove. Any tire with a small pins will work on this, although they will get chewed up rather quickly. My suggestion of AKA premounts is simply because they are nearly perfectly balanced straight out of the package and should be virtually wobble-free.
Well, no, I know what blue groove is...what I'm referring to is more of a very tight packed track with not much loose dirt due to being blown off so much. It's almost like running on polished concrete. The only loose dirt on the track is really just outside of the race line. I think the city blocks are going to work best for me.

Should I get I-Beams in the front, and city blocks in the rear? What compound should I get?
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:18 PM   #5
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other way around...Ibeams in the rear, city blocks up front. The wider lug on the ibeam will give better forward traction, while the city block will have better steering. run as soft as your wallet will allow. Them truggy premounts aren't cheap!
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:35 PM   #6
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other way around...Ibeams in the rear, city blocks up front. The wider lug on the ibeam will give better forward traction, while the city block will have better steering. run as soft as your wallet will allow. Them truggy premounts aren't cheap!
Money isn't an object. I don't mind spending the cash if it will help performance. I am expecting to spend about $80 total.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:40 PM   #7
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+1 City blocks work almost anywhere on a truggy.
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:32 PM   #8
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What's up chad this is jason you might want to try the proline caliber's m2 compound they looked really good at the larcc. Also you would want the proline wheels for these tires. They are 4.0's
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:46 PM   #9
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What's up chad this is jason you might want to try the proline caliber's m2 compound they looked really good at the larcc. Also you would want the proline wheels for these tires. They are 4.0's
You're using the cityblock/I-Beam combo huh? I'll use whatever you're using cuz your truggy always looks perfect on the track
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:52 PM   #10
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Thanks chad, but i run i-beams all the way around 90% of the time. Ran mediums this weekend but it's mostly softs any other time. The track had good traction so the mediums worked and lasted on that track.It was starting to groove up pretty well at the end of the night.
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Old 07-27-2009, 05:43 PM   #11
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Thanks chad, but i run i-beams all the way around 90% of the time. Ran mediums this weekend but it's mostly softs any other time. The track had good traction so the mediums worked and lasted on that track.It was starting to groove up pretty well at the end of the night.
I used Mitch's cityblocks during the mains, and I noticed a big difference, but about 3 laps in, I realized I didn't charge my rx pack so that's why I was
driving like ass, (no steering or brake) and finally it just crapped out and I was
done. Sucks that after racing for 13 hours, THAT had
to happen but I guess it's just a lesson learned. I'm gonna bring it to the trophy race in Springfield this weekend, (I heard they're having
one) and it should be much easier to drive..I really like the layout at rcph right now
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:18 PM   #12
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See you saturday then!
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