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Old 07-23-2009, 09:33 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by sokar View Post
Well, that's polite.


Anyway I've heard good things about marvel mystery oil. MMO is $5 per quart when the hobbico stuff is around $5 per 2oz. Is the Marvel stuff the same or any better than ARO? Judging from the responses methinks I'm not gonna use any more WD40 in my engine, and I should probably warn my friend.
If your crank has no filler, Marvel mystery oil is hard to beat as an ARO
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:38 AM   #47
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I'm telling you guys gmk aro and be done with it. Besides you IRS all of 3 to 5 drops at a time.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:41 AM   #48
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I don't think my hobby shot carries that and MMO is tons cheaper and more available. Besides, I highly doubt it matters.
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:45 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokar View Post
Well, that's polite.


Anyway I've heard good things about marvel mystery oil. MMO is $5 per quart when the hobbico stuff is around $5 per 2oz. Is the Marvel stuff the same or any better than ARO? Judging from the responses methinks I'm not gonna use any more WD40 in my engine, and I should probably warn my friend.



sorry mate i was a tad blunt no offence i just re read what i wrote but thats the general jiff mate but yea as i said no offence intended
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:58 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by sokar View Post
Well, that's polite.


Anyway I've heard good things about marvel mystery oil. MMO is $5 per quart when the hobbico stuff is around $5 per 2oz. Is the Marvel stuff the same or any better than ARO? Judging from the responses methinks I'm not gonna use any more WD40 in my engine, and I should probably warn my friend.
do a 50/50 mix of MMO and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:24 PM   #51
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do a 50/50 mix of MMO and ATF
Why would I mix a Massive Multiplayer Online game with the bureau of Alchohal, Tobacco, and Firearms? Haha I have weird humor.

Anyway will this mix benefit my engine or is it just a method of saving money? Because right about now we're down to pennies.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:29 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by sokar View Post
Why would I mix a Massive Multiplayer Online game with the bureau of Alchohal, Tobacco, and Firearms? Haha I have weird humor.

Anyway will this mix benefit my engine or is it just a method of saving money? Because right about now we're down to pennies.
not 100% sure, but anytime the conversation comes up about making your own ARO, i always hear the 50/50 mix come up.

i figure the ATF it a little thicker than the MMO and helps it coat everything better. also maybe the ATF has some diffrent lubrication properties than the MMO does.
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:04 PM   #53
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This is the stuff I currently use, it last for a really long time for the amount you get. Its about 9$ and I've used it on coated cranks with no problem.

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Old 07-23-2009, 05:15 PM   #54
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Do what you wish but everyone has told you to just spend the couple dollars and get some ARO. If you can't spend the $5 on a bottle of ARO for your engine, you have chosen the wrong hobby.
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:22 PM   #55
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Do what you wish but everyone has told you to just spend the couple dollars and get some ARO. If you can't spend the $5 on a bottle of ARO for your engine, you have chosen the wrong hobby.
I already said I'd dump the WD40 .
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:24 PM   #56
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I cant believe this thread is still getting hits. (haha one more hit here)
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:25 PM   #57
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I have to chime in and say i have used wd a few times(its been about a year) that was on a sptwks engine that i rebuilt with machined crank at the track last august.

I always use hobbico aro. i have bottle on every workbench and in rc tote. like has been said the silicon is key. you can actually see the difference between aro and wd40.

also its nice to use fuel that calls for no aro. so unless an engine is stored i use only for assembly or disassembly
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:08 PM   #58
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+1 thats the stuff I am talking about. I didnt like putting it through the fuel inlet. I take the plug out and dump in in the hole, after I make sure its clean. Then stuff a paper towel in the glow plug hole and spin the engine on the box. I do have one question. The instrucktions say to put 5cc in the engine. That is A LOT. If I fill up the tube to 5ml and then put that much oil in the engine it is harder than hell to start next time and it smokes for a min until the oil burns off. Is 5cc necessary? I could see if the engine was going to sit for months but 5cc seems excessive.

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Wow, I don't read RC Tech for a day and.....

You don't need to put 5cc of Afterlife into the engine. In the instructions I suggest drawing 5cc up into the syringe, but I say later on that 2cc is more than enough to coat the internals well. I just find the syringe works a little easier with a little extra liquid in it.

The plug, when its coated with Afterlife, is a little harder to light, and the engine will smoke a lot for a first few seconds after it starts. Sometimes I'll unscrew the plug and blow on it before starting, just to remove excess oil and make it a little easier to light off. The oil won't hurt the plug in any way.

I agree with the posters who recommend against using WD40 or MMM on engines with silicone ramped cranks - not a good idea.

Thanks to all of you have had positive experiences with Afterlife, and took the time to post. I appreciate your support!
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Old 07-26-2009, 07:30 PM   #59
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Default I'd stay away from WD40

WD40 isn't good for the silicone o-rings in the carb. It will make them crumble. Some engines are worse than others for this. Italian engines are the worst I've found. I used corrosion-x on all my motors. Its a high slickness lube primarily for fishing gear. It has just a bit of ptpf in it that will impregnate the bearings etc to make it slick. You'd be suprised how easy the crank will spin after a few applications. Nitro residue and h2o create nitric acid which will pit bearings and other parts which leads to rusting and breakdown of the metal. I always took my motors apart after a days run and cleaned them with alcohol then used the corrosion-x. I wouldn't use much oil in the carb either. Mix it with some fresh fuel so you don't end up with it drying and plugging up the small passages of the carb. Corrosion-x also has a heavier oil for skate wheels. Works great in clutches and things like that. You can usually find the products at any place that sells rods and reels.

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Old 07-26-2009, 08:15 PM   #60
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Cold Fusion produces After -Run oil that works great
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