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Old 07-17-2009, 02:31 PM   #16
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I have recently researched modding engines and have found some research.....As far as modding the crank I will stay away from that...There is a couple things you can do to the crank without throughing off it`s balance,but only on cranks that are stock and don`t have any factory work already done to them..Anything more than this and you will need to rebalance the crank and fill with putty...

I would recomend practicing on worn out sleeves,cases and head buttons.You need to get the feel for the correct speed to run the dremel at..After you have practiced and get the feel for the dremeling speed(along with a steady hand) only then would I proceed to mod a budget engine.Why a budget engine..It`s easier to seen gains and if you mess it up its a $100-$150 mistake and not a $300+

I will take little material off at a time...Its easier to take material off,cause you can`t put it back on
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Old 07-17-2009, 05:21 PM   #17
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You can't perfectly balance a single cylinder motor. Grind on that crank all you want. Just try to take some material off of the pin side too when you do.

Besides, I really wasn't talking about that kind of grinding. There is one absolutely VITAL part of a crank that can be modded to your hearts content without really affecting balance.

Also, that "putty" has nothing to do with balance. It is simply a lighter (and cheaper/easier) way of ramping the fuel window.
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Old 07-18-2009, 08:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Yeah, just for fun. I have no intentions of starting a business or anything. I like to learn everything I possibly can about the things I enjoy.
Semple, you're a man after my own heart. Listen to Monty, he's got a good head on his shoulders (we've swapped a few PM's). Most of my mod'ing is for my boat engines & I've done some to car engines as well. What I've learned from others and self inflicted damage is... know exactly what you want to accomplish before you make your first cut and make sure you understand how that little two-stroke pump works.

Two suggestions I'll offer -
1. blue print the engine before you make your first change. You need to know your starting values for port timing (induction, transfer & boost, and exhaust), rod length, stroke, head bubble volume, head clearance, squishband area, head shimn thickness (if any), crank case volume, carb bore, port area & shape. it's a lot, but you need to know your stock numbers.
2. A cheap and effective way to give you hands-on cause and effect on a GOOD engine would be to pick up some head shims and sleeve shims. Swapping head & sleeve shims will allow you to alter the compression ratio, elevate exhaust, transfer & boost port timings. Adding & removing, individually or in combination will change the engine's performance. Head shims you can pick up at the LHS or an on-line hobby shop. Sleeve shims can be picked up on-line form Chris Wood at Wood's R/C Boat Products (woodrcboatproducts.com) these guys can make them cheep in an assortment of thicknesses.

& while your at it.. read up on how a tuned exhaust works. 'Cause once you begin changing sleeve timings you need to make adjustments to the pipe &/or header length.

But it's all in the name of fun.
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