UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

Have an 2.0 i'm rebuilding for 1st time and coming from 1/10 i'm used to internal limiters. On these 1/8s (havent run 1 in 4yrs), quite annoyed by the beating the chassis takes on 4 pts courtesy of the droop screws. do any of you losi (or any brand) folks use, say 1/10 pistons, as internal travel limiters? i've also seen this thread on 2.0 shock mod but that address up top for the shock. also have seen bits here and there of extending ends out 2mm for proper length.

thoughts?

R

Ed237

iTrader: (11)

I have some recent experience with this. I have recently switched from internal limiters to droop screws back to internal limiters.

The shocks with internal limiters feel like they bottom out more predictably to me than when I ran them with droop screws.

Once you find what length works best with internal limiters, you can still do fine adjustments by backing off the the shock ends in or out a thread or two.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

If you ever adjust droop for different tracks/conditions, internal limiters aren't an option. Droop is a big tuning option that most people neglect. IMO droop screws are the only option. While you can do what Ed237 said with the shock ends, even that is a pain compared to using droop screws to adjust. It also weakens the shock ends by not having as many threads in them.

If you have a 2.0, your chassis has droop stop screws that keep the screws from digging into the chassis. You should never have that problem with the 2.0 chassis.

butch man

Think about kart wheeling down the straight. If all you have is internal limiters then the chance of the rod end getting ripped off the shock increases by a magnitude I dont even want to contemplate. It is true that even with droop screws the arms can be hit & bent down in that same kart wheel pretty good but a second line of defence with the droop screws is the best way to go if you feel the need to use internal ones. Ask some one that has been running the rc8 since the beginning, when they were recomending internal limiters why they dont run internal limiters now.There were lots of us between races searching the track for springs & spring cups & the factory recomended using the droop screws in conjunction with the internal limiters & it still got ugly at times as a pulled off rod end is pretty much a quareteed bent shaft. You could always just not crash & you hont have much problem with that but you still would have to tear apart the shocks every time you needed a small droop change as the track changes.Besides I thought the 2.0 had metal plates where the screws hit?or am I remembering wrong?

Have you seen that thread for the droop screws with a ball welded on the end?Those may still mar the chassie but are more consitant & its a compressing of the chassis not a gouging.

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

I race a RC8 so I have become quite familiar with the internal limiting. I like it. Ive never had a problem breaking anything and really like the fact the droop stays consistent and my chassis is unmarked.

The 2.0 does have the nice feature in the chassis to stop the droop screws to stop digging in. I think since its there its probably worth using. It is a very useful adjustment.

I just ordered the RC8T droop screws to put in my RC8. They have a button head on the bottom for a broad contact patch with the chassis but because of its size I dont know what if any other cars you can use them on. The new RC8B arms have a spot to recess them into.

DR ZAIRUS

I use the down-stop screws. Internal limiters put too much stress on shock absorbers.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

perhaps the rtr chassis doesnt have this b/c i've only run the car on flat shortgrass outline i put in the bakcyard to break car in. (no jumps at all) and i already have dimples where they have made their impression. perhaps roundhead screws upside down (ala GS and mugen)?

R