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Old 07-10-2009, 10:07 AM   #1
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Default Recommend to me a .21 engine with a 14mm crankshaft

Hello all,

I removed the rear ball bearing ussing the GRP engine toolkit, but because my engine only has a 13mm crankshaft I can't get it back in.

I now have a brand new stock Losi 2.0 RTR 8ight Buggy engine that I can't use.

So I am in the market for a new .21 race legal engine that has a 14mm crank shaft so I can use the GRP toolkit on it.

I don't care about the most powerful, I just care about a good bang for the buck because I don't want to spend too much money. Thanks a lot.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:21 AM   #2
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O'donnell SS.21 and its only $230 (SWEET!)
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:23 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Hello all,

I removed the rear ball bearing ussing the GRP engine toolkit, but because my engine only has a 13mm crankshaft I can't get it back in.

I now have a brand new stock Losi 2.0 RTR 8ight Buggy engine that I can't use.

So I am in the market for a new .21 race legal engine that has a 14mm crank shaft so I can use the GRP toolkit on it.

I don't care about the most powerful, I just care about a good bang for the buck because I don't want to spend too much money. Thanks a lot.
hum, I have never measured - so you just want to by an engine because you want to use the tools?

Dude that measurements means nothing. I have a MR ninja, JX ninga, Nova 21-4 plus a toro, os speed and vspec, mach 427 os 28 rb w7. And I never looked at the shaft size...........

And what you are saying makes not sense - you took it out and now cant put it back in? ? ? is this right - you just need to put the bearing in all the way - the tool I have comes with different size pcs to fit different size bearings....... you just have to fine the right one...............

heat it up to get the bearing in all the way............


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Old 07-10-2009, 10:49 AM   #4
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hum, I have never measured - so you just want to by an engine because you want to use the tools?
Nope, but I have a great tool and I have been led to believe that a 13mm crank shaft is non-standard. So for me to limit it to a 14mm is hardly limiting. Why would I buy an engine that doesn't work with my tool when I can get plently of engines that do work with the tool.

If this isn't the case, please let me know.

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And what you are saying makes not sense - you took it out and now cant put it back in? ? ? is this right - you just need to put the bearing in all the way - the tool I have comes with different size pcs to fit different size bearings....... you just have to fine the right one...............

heat it up to get the bearing in all the way............
That is exactly right. The tool removed the rear bearing like a champ, but the shaft portion of the tool is too big for the case and so I can't put the bearing back in.

What tool do you use?

I would love to get it back in - I have tried heating it up multiple times, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

If you have ideas or suggestions to help, please let me know because I would hate to have to spend hundreds of dollars when I can get my engine working for less.

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Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #5
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jax you can put the bearing back in just not with that tool. Put the rear bearing in with the ball bearings faceing toward the rear of the engine. Heat the case up a little bit to make it easier. Back before i got the grp tool set i used a socket with a 3 inch extension to tap the rear bearing in. Make sure the socket is the same outter diamater as the outter race on the bearing. I have even put the bearing on the cranshaft and install the crankshaft like you normally would and when the bearing starts into its hole put a wooden dowl on the crank and peck on the dowel until the bearing fully seats. It will be alot less stress on the bearing though if you use the socket. It shouldn't take alot of effort to get it back in there ones it starts. It will be pretty snug as it's inserting into the crankcase. Just make sure it bottoms out before installing the crank. IMPORTANT::: make sure the balls are facing the rear of the engine and not the rubber seal part. The bearing probably wont get any lube and will almost definately fail if installed backwards. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Nope, but I have a great tool and I have been led to believe that a 13mm crank shaft is non-standard. So for me to limit it to a 14mm is hardly limiting. Why would I buy an engine that doesn't work with my tool when I can get plently of engines that do work with the tool.

If this isn't the case, please let me know.



That is exactly right. The tool removed the rear bearing like a champ, but the shaft portion of the tool is too big for the case and so I can't put the bearing back in.

What tool do you use?

I would love to get it back in - I have tried heating it up multiple times, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

If you have ideas or suggestions to help, please let me know because I would hate to have to spend hundreds of dollars when I can get my engine working for less.


Thanks.
Wait... I get it... I think. You're trying to PULL the bearing in from the front, right?

You don't do that... you PUSH it in from the back. We use the ofna one, and it is the same tool to put it back in, from the same direction, just using the slide hammer part pushing instead of pulling. If the tool could take it out it should be able to put it back in...

Hmmm... but yeah, I just looked... it is... a neat tool in concept, but it is unfortunate that it even says for 14mm only.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:05 AM   #7
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Wait... I get it... I think. You're trying to PULL the bearing in from the front, right?

You don't do that... you PUSH it in from the back. We use the ofna one, and it is the same tool to put it back in, from the same direction, just using the slide hammer part pushing instead of pulling. If the tool could take it out it should be able to put it back in...
I am not actually trying to pull it - I am pushing it.

The problem is that the GRP kit has two different tools, one that removes the back bearing and the sleeve.

The second tool removes the front bearing and then re-inserts the front and back bearings simultaneously. The problem is that this tool doesn't fit into the 13mm crankshaft.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:07 AM   #8
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jax you can put the bearing back in just not with that tool. Put the rear bearing in with the ball bearings faceing toward the rear of the engine. Heat the case up a little bit to make it easier. Back before i got the grp tool set i used a socket with a 3 inch extension to tap the rear bearing in. Make sure the socket is the same outter diamater as the outter race on the bearing. I have even put the bearing on the cranshaft and install the crankshaft like you normally would and when the bearing starts into its hole put a wooden dowl on the crank and peck on the dowel until the bearing fully seats. It will be alot less stress on the bearing though if you use the socket. It shouldn't take alot of effort to get it back in there ones it starts. It will be pretty snug as it's inserting into the crankcase. Just make sure it bottoms out before installing the crank. IMPORTANT::: make sure the balls are facing the rear of the engine and not the rubber seal part. The bearing probably wont get any lube and will almost definately fail if installed backwards. Hope this helps.
Thanks for pointing this out.

I noted the orientation of the ball bearings before removing them and was putting them back in the same way. The bearing were facing backwards.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:08 AM   #9
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-14mm-cranks

Is this tool any good?
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:09 AM   #10
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Out of curiosity, why did you remove the bearing on a brand new engine?

Want to sell the engine cheap?
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:09 AM   #11
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If it really is a limitation of the tool that sucks. Try heating up the block like you have been doing but also put the bearing in the freezer for an hour or so. should slide right in there.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:14 AM   #12
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Out of curiosity, why did you remove the bearing on a brand new engine?

Want to sell the engine cheap?
Because I'm an idiot.

No I'm the type who likes to understand as much as I can and I was ripping apart the whole RTR buggy so I figured the engine would be good to do to.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:15 AM   #13
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That is the one we use, and it works fine... HOWEVER... it is not "elegant" like the one you have- kudos to them on a nice design. (and I mean from a functional standpoint, not appearance.)

Instead of steady pressure from a screw it "hammers" the bearings out and in.

In case you don't understand what a "slide hammer" (like a dent puller for auto body) is, I'll explain:

There is a long shaft that has a weight around it... one end is essentially a handle, the other is where the puller die (that grips the bearing) attaches. The weight slides on the shaft and "hammers" the bearing loose.

We've found it works best if you remove the carb and heat the engine in the oven to about 350 degrees before you remove the bearings, (bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown- j/k!) and re-heat the engine before putting in the new bearings... meanwhile, put the bearings in the freezer. (shrink the bearings, expand the case, and it goes together much nicer, right?)
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:16 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by killabud View Post
If it really is a limitation of the tool that sucks. Try heating up the block like you have been doing but also put the bearing in the freezer for an hour or so. should slide right in there.
I will try the freezer on the bearing - the double contrast might make the difference.

I have been heating the the engine in 400 for about 10-12 mins. Is that OK - or should I do more?

Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:16 AM   #15
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Don't do anything hasty. Give me a few minutes and I'll see if I can come up with an idea to help you out of this... brb
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