I want out.
07-06-2009, 07:33 PM
#16
Losi, mugen, umm ya that's about it well there's the k car but it's way expensive and that damm k car and I have something personal, but they are good cars. You would have been better off with a losi 1.0 they are dirt cheap and still blast around the track. They tried to tell you. Ohh well live and learn. 
07-06-2009, 07:42 PM
#17
no, if you sell it you will not get 1/2 of the money you need to go electric. worse off, if you try to go cheep with electric you will end up going even more expensive in the long run, or just quit. $200 esc, $150 motor, $200 for 2 batteries, $100 charger, twice as many tires, $100 for a second set of driveline parts and no guarantee that any of those won't burn up from 1 faulty connection or short circuit. its an expensive hobby no matter what you do, and if working on the cars makes you want to tear your hair out this might not be the right hobby. you have to work on the cars for 60minutes to get 20 minutes of run time for a total of 80 minutes of fun, thats just the way it is.
low speed crash into what? wood? concrete? metal? i had many high speed crashes into dirt and pvc and never broke anything on mine. 1/8 scale buggies were designed to run on dirt with some level of skill (ie. landing on all 4 tires after a jump, staying on all 4's, downsiding jumps and not jumping into flat spots). if you can, take the car out to a track and see how more durable it is and also how much more fun it is. i never understood bashing with rc cars, up and down the street full speed, driving on grass and melting the cluch shoes to the clutchbell, wearing out tires in 2 tanks, engines running at 350+ degrees, parts ripping off the chassis of the car as you hit the base of a stop sign at 30mph, runaways bashing into fenses. maybe thats why they call it bashing. sorry, just not a fan.
low speed crash into what? wood? concrete? metal? i had many high speed crashes into dirt and pvc and never broke anything on mine. 1/8 scale buggies were designed to run on dirt with some level of skill (ie. landing on all 4 tires after a jump, staying on all 4's, downsiding jumps and not jumping into flat spots). if you can, take the car out to a track and see how more durable it is and also how much more fun it is. i never understood bashing with rc cars, up and down the street full speed, driving on grass and melting the cluch shoes to the clutchbell, wearing out tires in 2 tanks, engines running at 350+ degrees, parts ripping off the chassis of the car as you hit the base of a stop sign at 30mph, runaways bashing into fenses. maybe thats why they call it bashing. sorry, just not a fan.
07-06-2009, 07:43 PM
#18
i've seen a hyper 8 and its pretty much exactly the same as 90% of all 1/8th scale buggies. Doesn't seem like you were prepared for how integrated each part is on an 1/8th scale to help prevent breakage. Tuning problems, overheating problems come from inexperience, big blocks are a whole new animal as compared to small blocks like the pro .15 that was in your maxx. If its running hot, either your clutch is sticking or you are too lean somewhere, more than likely both high and low needles. Starting, get a starter box, much less hassle, as long as you set the box up right.
you are getting lectured because all you've done is get on here and moan and complain about the car, never asking for specific help with specific problems. You're getting on here and trashing manufacturers and when someone gives you solid advice, you alomost completely ignore it
Maybe I'm still a bit new to RC, but I didn't know I would be expected to not become angry when a brand new $400 machine is reduced to a fancy paperweight out in the field.
07-06-2009, 07:45 PM
#19
They do make tanks I have seen them but even a tank hittng a tree or something like a tree at 40 mph will break something. That's why I only drive my race car on race tracks. Every time I run it out front of my house I usually hit something and break some parts.
07-06-2009, 07:49 PM
#20
And regarding to working on the car, I actually really enjoyed working on the maxx, but this car (especially the engine mount) is absolutely maddening to work on because once a part comes or falls out it is very hard to get back in.
07-06-2009, 09:12 PM
#21
just going from my H7 experiances
the engine mounts on the ofnas are a PIA, but once its on there its a decent desine...
if you don't whant to spend the $$ on a starter box, get this(idk if the stock header will fit...)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJMG7&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGFK4&P=SM
if your still using the allen wrenches, get these...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPZS7&P=7
or any kit that has a 1.5 2 and 2mm
I beat the $#!t out of my H7 and i did brake parts, and stuff broke or ended my day early, but stick with it for a few months and all of the bugs will get worked out
the engine mounts on the ofnas are a PIA, but once its on there its a decent desine...
if you don't whant to spend the $$ on a starter box, get this(idk if the stock header will fit...)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJMG7&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGFK4&P=SM
if your still using the allen wrenches, get these...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPZS7&P=7
or any kit that has a 1.5 2 and 2mm
I beat the $#!t out of my H7 and i did brake parts, and stuff broke or ended my day early, but stick with it for a few months and all of the bugs will get worked out
07-06-2009, 09:39 PM
#22
This hobby is not cheap. It takes tools and parts to keep your machine running in top shape. I am always cleaning, changing diff oil, shock oil, bent screws, changing bearings, checking clutch shoes etc. You need a quality set of tools and a wealth of replacement parts to keep your machine in top shape. If you are not racing then you bought the right car. There is no sense in breaking the bank to toss around at a park. I find my monster truck is more fun at the park and my truggy is more fun at the track. The buggy you have will get you out and bashing just fine, but it will still take $$$ and maintenance. My 1st nitro vehicle was a kyosho STR us sports RTR. I have had electrics for 25+ years. I didnt read the instructions. I swapped out the radio and servos which cost as much as the truck. I fired it up and drove it out front. That lasted all of about 4-5 tanks. The engine blew a rod. I didnt break the engine in, I didnt tune it correctly, I had no air holes cut in the body. It was a RTR right/ wrong. Before 6 months had passed I had dumped hundreds of dollars into the RTR and it was just a few parts away from a full blown STR race version. Nitro vehicles take time and patience. Dont just throw in the towel, ask questions and learn. The learning curve is steep at first but it does get easier. I am not bad at tuning a nitro engine now 2 1/2 years later and I do pretty well at the track usually in the top 4.
07-06-2009, 09:55 PM
#23
I have an OFNA Picco which I use to Race and Bash...it has only broken an A-Arm and I've had it a while now....the only reason it broke the A-Arm is because my daughter ran it into a parked car at full speed. No matter what anyone says electrics are lower maintenance and break less due to the lesser moving parts. Have you checked out the Slash Class at your local track? Do they have one...this may be your best choice if you want to bash and race...Or could go the Monster Truck route too...either way, don't give up, just find what you like and stick to it!
But, Frank is right either way...it will cost $$, so go slow and don't expect too much, too fast....That's my problem too!!
But, Frank is right either way...it will cost $$, so go slow and don't expect too much, too fast....That's my problem too!!
07-07-2009, 12:40 AM
#24
Tech Master
Its starting to sound like it may not be the car with the problem it just might be you. The statement my friend has a t-maxx & never has problems but I have nothing but problems with mine would be the first clue & if you hate working on the H8 dont get another 1/8 buggy or truggy their all laid out the same but for a few screws here & there.Why not give your H8 to your friend that never has problems & see how he does with it for a while & take a break from RC till something changes.
BTW elc is not easier as said earlier.I have melted 2 speed controls ,a motor & several wires became unsoldered when the other parts failed.Not easier or cheaper just different. All parts have been replaced under warrante so far but the time to get the parts back have so far totaled more than you have owned your H8 times 3.
BTW elc is not easier as said earlier.I have melted 2 speed controls ,a motor & several wires became unsoldered when the other parts failed.Not easier or cheaper just different. All parts have been replaced under warrante so far but the time to get the parts back have so far totaled more than you have owned your H8 times 3.
07-07-2009, 04:20 AM
#25
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe
Posts: 4,034
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
I would suggest staying away from electric 1/8 scale at this stage of the game.
They are more expensive initially, and a catastrophic failure of the batteries can be not only expensive (melt the whole car down) but downright dangerous.
I considered running electric buggy to have a second class to run... and decided the cost and risk was too high. Now, there is no doubt they are faster, and easier to work on... but if you are having problems now you don't need to add finicky electronics into the picture.
And the Hyper 8 is built like a tank. If you can break that, ANY 1/8 scale (buggy or truggy) is going to give you the same issues.
1/8 scales are more "racers" than "bashers," and they require a little more skill and patience to work on. It's all part of hobby. (Ferraris require more skill to work on than Miatas too... and they are both fun in their element... but you wouldn't say the Miata is BETTER would you? Even though it is probably an order of magnitude more reliable!
)
You now HAVE a Hyper 8 (or Hyper 8.5 I guess, with the conversion) and it is a good, solid buggy. You'll lose 1/2 or more of what you put into it if you sell it. I suggest sticking with that car for now.
Don't like the engine mount? Get an upgraded one from King Headz or some other manufacturer. Yes, those (stock) mounts are a bit of a hassle, but they are very effective at the same time.
What exactly did you break (you said $50 worth of parts) that has you so frustrated, besides the pull-start? I'm pretty sure we've all told you that pull-starts on a big-block are not a good idea. For the price of 2 pull starts you can just about buy a starterbox, and believe me, spend it now, or spend it later- you're going to spend it.
They are more expensive initially, and a catastrophic failure of the batteries can be not only expensive (melt the whole car down) but downright dangerous.
I considered running electric buggy to have a second class to run... and decided the cost and risk was too high. Now, there is no doubt they are faster, and easier to work on... but if you are having problems now you don't need to add finicky electronics into the picture.
And the Hyper 8 is built like a tank. If you can break that, ANY 1/8 scale (buggy or truggy) is going to give you the same issues.
1/8 scales are more "racers" than "bashers," and they require a little more skill and patience to work on. It's all part of hobby. (Ferraris require more skill to work on than Miatas too... and they are both fun in their element... but you wouldn't say the Miata is BETTER would you? Even though it is probably an order of magnitude more reliable!
)You now HAVE a Hyper 8 (or Hyper 8.5 I guess, with the conversion) and it is a good, solid buggy. You'll lose 1/2 or more of what you put into it if you sell it. I suggest sticking with that car for now.
Don't like the engine mount? Get an upgraded one from King Headz or some other manufacturer. Yes, those (stock) mounts are a bit of a hassle, but they are very effective at the same time.
What exactly did you break (you said $50 worth of parts) that has you so frustrated, besides the pull-start? I'm pretty sure we've all told you that pull-starts on a big-block are not a good idea. For the price of 2 pull starts you can just about buy a starterbox, and believe me, spend it now, or spend it later- you're going to spend it.
07-07-2009, 04:28 AM
#27
I would suggest staying away from electric 1/8 scale at this stage of the game.
They are more expensive initially, and a catastrophic failure of the batteries can be not only expensive (melt the whole car down) but downright dangerous.
I considered running electric buggy to have a second class to run... and decided the cost and risk was too high. Now, there is no doubt they are faster, and easier to work on... but if you are having problems now you don't need to add finicky electronics into the picture.
And the Hyper 8 is built like a tank. If you can break that, ANY 1/8 scale (buggy or truggy) is going to give you the same issues.
1/8 scales are more "racers" than "bashers," and they require a little more skill and patience to work on. It's all part of hobby. (Ferraris require more skill to work on than Miatas too... and they are both fun in their element... but you wouldn't say the Miata is BETTER would you? Even though it is probably an order of magnitude more reliable! )
You now HAVE a Hyper 8 (or Hyper 8.5 I guess, with the conversion) and it is a good, solid buggy. You'll lose 1/2 or more of what you put into it if you sell it. I suggest sticking with that car for now.
Don't like the engine mount? Get an upgraded one from King Headz or some other manufacturer. Yes, those (stock) mounts are a bit of a hassle, but they are very effective at the same time.
What exactly did you break (you said $50 worth of parts) that has you so frustrated, besides the pull-start? I'm pretty sure we've all told you that pull-starts on a big-block are not a good idea. For the price of 2 pull starts you can just about buy a starterbox, and believe me, spend it now, or spend it later- you're going to spend it.
They are more expensive initially, and a catastrophic failure of the batteries can be not only expensive (melt the whole car down) but downright dangerous.
I considered running electric buggy to have a second class to run... and decided the cost and risk was too high. Now, there is no doubt they are faster, and easier to work on... but if you are having problems now you don't need to add finicky electronics into the picture.
And the Hyper 8 is built like a tank. If you can break that, ANY 1/8 scale (buggy or truggy) is going to give you the same issues.
1/8 scales are more "racers" than "bashers," and they require a little more skill and patience to work on. It's all part of hobby. (Ferraris require more skill to work on than Miatas too... and they are both fun in their element... but you wouldn't say the Miata is BETTER would you? Even though it is probably an order of magnitude more reliable!
)You now HAVE a Hyper 8 (or Hyper 8.5 I guess, with the conversion) and it is a good, solid buggy. You'll lose 1/2 or more of what you put into it if you sell it. I suggest sticking with that car for now.
Don't like the engine mount? Get an upgraded one from King Headz or some other manufacturer. Yes, those (stock) mounts are a bit of a hassle, but they are very effective at the same time.
What exactly did you break (you said $50 worth of parts) that has you so frustrated, besides the pull-start? I'm pretty sure we've all told you that pull-starts on a big-block are not a good idea. For the price of 2 pull starts you can just about buy a starterbox, and believe me, spend it now, or spend it later- you're going to spend it.
07-07-2009, 04:36 AM
#28
like what domit had said, stick with the Hyper 8, things will happen when u are new to the car. This car is really a tank, believe in it. of cos u can't compare it with losi or xray... but it is a gd car to start up. NEVER blame the car.
Just save up more and get a starter box or bump start.
u will going to spend more if u going to EP. hav to be extra careful with them because u are using lipo in it.
Good luck in yr choice.
Just save up more and get a starter box or bump start.
u will going to spend more if u going to EP. hav to be extra careful with them because u are using lipo in it.
Good luck in yr choice.
07-07-2009, 05:08 AM
#29
After reading the whole thread, and i am quite sure there will be a "you don't know my situation" again later on, which in reply, if we don't know your situation you shouldn't be on here asking our advice! How can we advise you on something we know nothing about?
I have learnt a huge deal just from asking questions on rctech! I run both electirc and nitro... and i have off road and on road for both! I also worked in a hobby store for a while. And i have seen my fair share of return customers with "It's the car, the car is faulty... i did nothing wrong", yes that customer broke an A arm while doing slow circles on the driveway to run in the motor.......and wanted the part replaced for free, yes slow circles on the driveway break A arms
Electric is not easier than nitro..... i sometimes have more problems with electric than nitro.
I started in nitro off road with a kyosho sports RTR....... I could not break the car...... i had an air filter come off on the track and got dirt in the motor.... it still wouldn't die. They are very durable, and you either get every lemon car put on the shelves, or you are doing something wrong. I had 30+ litres through my RTR motor and my pullstart was in A1 working condition, yes they break, yes i have seen them break, but a lot comes down to the user.
I THRASHED the kyosho as i had a new car...... some videos (not very good) but they show some pretty harsh treatment.... and i never broke an a arm or a tower. My neighbour took that car once i was done, put a cheap big block in it and had a blast. If the car is breaking and falling apart then you are doing something to cause that. It doesn't just happen on its own.
vid 1
vid 2
I have learnt a huge deal just from asking questions on rctech! I run both electirc and nitro... and i have off road and on road for both! I also worked in a hobby store for a while. And i have seen my fair share of return customers with "It's the car, the car is faulty... i did nothing wrong", yes that customer broke an A arm while doing slow circles on the driveway to run in the motor.......and wanted the part replaced for free, yes slow circles on the driveway break A arms
Electric is not easier than nitro..... i sometimes have more problems with electric than nitro.
I started in nitro off road with a kyosho sports RTR....... I could not break the car...... i had an air filter come off on the track and got dirt in the motor.... it still wouldn't die. They are very durable, and you either get every lemon car put on the shelves, or you are doing something wrong. I had 30+ litres through my RTR motor and my pullstart was in A1 working condition, yes they break, yes i have seen them break, but a lot comes down to the user.
I THRASHED the kyosho as i had a new car...... some videos (not very good) but they show some pretty harsh treatment.... and i never broke an a arm or a tower. My neighbour took that car once i was done, put a cheap big block in it and had a blast. If the car is breaking and falling apart then you are doing something to cause that. It doesn't just happen on its own.
vid 1
vid 2
07-07-2009, 05:27 AM
#30
I will back up everything that Domit said. The only post that made any sense to me.