Why is traxxas so much better than OFNA?
07-01-2009, 03:42 AM
#31
hi sokar, i own a hyper 7, 8 and jus brought the 9. they are all great cars and great bashers.
I had the same problem with the pull-starter and steering knuckles.
pull-start - change to a starter box or bump start.
Steering knuckles - change it to the CNC steering knuckles.
it may cost more with the CNC steering knuckles, but is worth it. The steering knuckles is the same for hyper 7, 8, 8.5 and ST.
After both had been change, u will have great fun with this car, This car is not fragile. trust me.
I didn't broke any parts so far...
Have fun !
I had the same problem with the pull-starter and steering knuckles.
pull-start - change to a starter box or bump start.
Steering knuckles - change it to the CNC steering knuckles.
it may cost more with the CNC steering knuckles, but is worth it. The steering knuckles is the same for hyper 7, 8, 8.5 and ST.
After both had been change, u will have great fun with this car, This car is not fragile. trust me.
I didn't broke any parts so far...
Have fun !
07-01-2009, 09:59 AM
#32
Get yourself a starter box (same thing as a bump box) and half your problem will be taken care of. I've had pull starts, roto-starts, and now I run starter boxes exclusively. I'll never go back! The starter box is the most reliable way to fire up any nitro machine. It gets rid of the one way bearing, which is prone to fail at the worst time, and makes starts quick and easy.
It almost sounds to me like your lack of experience is making the path hard to travel. An engine with a poor tune can be a real bear to start, especially with a pull starter, and I don't doubt that contributes to a shortened pull start life.
As for the engine mount, you should always loosely start the screws on any piece, which has more then one screw, by hand, and then when they are all started, plus nice and straight (no cross threading), then you can go ahead and tighten them down evenly, following a criss cross pattern.
Keep working at it, and you'll get things figured out. We all break parts at some point or another.
It almost sounds to me like your lack of experience is making the path hard to travel. An engine with a poor tune can be a real bear to start, especially with a pull starter, and I don't doubt that contributes to a shortened pull start life.
As for the engine mount, you should always loosely start the screws on any piece, which has more then one screw, by hand, and then when they are all started, plus nice and straight (no cross threading), then you can go ahead and tighten them down evenly, following a criss cross pattern.
Keep working at it, and you'll get things figured out. We all break parts at some point or another.
07-01-2009, 10:01 AM
#33
Amazing part blame the car but they don't tell what they may have done wrong. I ran monster truck for years I've seen many who pull the cord out too far but blame the engine go figure. Why would anyone take the engine to mount screws out so the nuts can fall out. have fun getting them all back in place. You end up taking the mounts off and putting them on the engine. You be better off taking the mounts off. So you have to readjust the bell to spur gear clearance no big deal to do.
And the engine mount sure was tough, because on this mount it had not only the two nuts but a plate that went on top of them, preventing me from doing the usual method. Otherwise I would've.
07-01-2009, 10:06 AM
#34
Honestly, what you do if you want to get rid of alot of the little constant problems is dump the rtr. Buy a pro kit, do a little research before build to find its week points and purchase a few hop ups. Install quality servo's, receiver, engine, pipe, one piece motor mount ,clutch and bump box. If you clean and maintane you should be good to go anytime you wish.
07-01-2009, 01:39 PM
#35
Now I just found out that my steering servo is lunched. -_- This keeps getting better and better.
07-01-2009, 01:54 PM
#36
I would bet it didn't just snap. It most likely got caught on something and rubbed through or hit the exhaust and burned through.
I never ran a pull start but worked on a buddy's and they need to be rewound in tight and handle kept secured some way when running or they can be pulled out to show the cord and you will not know it.
They can be easily fixed when you open them up.
07-01-2009, 01:57 PM
#37
I cannot say you abused anything because I wasn't there. I do know that most pull start cords do not sponaniously self destruct though. Perhaps it was assembled poorly or was damaged and didn't let go until after the engine was started but there was definately something that happened to cause that cord to fail.
This isn't directed at you specifically but I've found the number one cause of failed pull starts is operator inexperiance. Many times the engine is not tuned right causing it to be harder to start and this leads to pull start issues. Whether it is too lean so that the engine is constantly flaming out and thus requireing multiple restarts or that it gets flooded and the user continues to try and start it, 99/100 the failed pull-starts I've seen were caused by someone not understanding why their engine was being so difficult to start.
As for AZ's advice, if the pull start handle can easily come out to allow the string to show the pull start is not assembled correctly. While they can get caught on things it is uncommon and the spring should have enough tension to keep the handle firmly in place.
Sokar, while I know you don't have a ton of money to put into this car, you may want to listen to these guys that are telling you to upgrade those steering nuckles. Spending the money on those parts now will probably save you money and frustration later on. Good luck and enjoy your car.
This isn't directed at you specifically but I've found the number one cause of failed pull starts is operator inexperiance. Many times the engine is not tuned right causing it to be harder to start and this leads to pull start issues. Whether it is too lean so that the engine is constantly flaming out and thus requireing multiple restarts or that it gets flooded and the user continues to try and start it, 99/100 the failed pull-starts I've seen were caused by someone not understanding why their engine was being so difficult to start.
As for AZ's advice, if the pull start handle can easily come out to allow the string to show the pull start is not assembled correctly. While they can get caught on things it is uncommon and the spring should have enough tension to keep the handle firmly in place.
Sokar, while I know you don't have a ton of money to put into this car, you may want to listen to these guys that are telling you to upgrade those steering nuckles. Spending the money on those parts now will probably save you money and frustration later on. Good luck and enjoy your car.
07-01-2009, 02:02 PM
#38
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
07-01-2009, 03:13 PM
#39
Anyways I have a hyper 8.5 pro kit. When I bought it I bought another used roller just for parts and I haven't had to replace any broken parts. I feel like I wasted money on the extra roller I bought. So far I've replaced the shocks to the big bore shocks and tires 'cause of normal ware n' tare.
07-01-2009, 03:21 PM
#40
furthermore.... rtr always have cheapy parts, thats why they can afford to sell the same car with engine/electronics/radio/tires for less than the pro kit. So if you pay more you pay once and with rtr you keep on paying until you upgrade everything to pro specs. at that point you end up with a rtr converted pro at about double the price of the original pro kit and a whole bunch of frustration and time spent waiting on parts.
Right now your best bet is to replace stuff thats broken with the pro quality ones and I'd suggest to take apart the whole buggy and put it back together while locktiting every metal to metal screw. That would get you familiar with your buggy and it would prevent stuff from falling off in the future.
Right now your best bet is to replace stuff thats broken with the pro quality ones and I'd suggest to take apart the whole buggy and put it back together while locktiting every metal to metal screw. That would get you familiar with your buggy and it would prevent stuff from falling off in the future.
07-01-2009, 03:24 PM
#41
I would bet it didn't just snap. It most likely got caught on something and rubbed through or hit the exhaust and burned through.
I never ran a pull start but worked on a buddy's and they need to be rewound in tight and handle kept secured some way when running or they can be pulled out to show the cord and you will not know it.
They can be easily fixed when you open them up.
I never ran a pull start but worked on a buddy's and they need to be rewound in tight and handle kept secured some way when running or they can be pulled out to show the cord and you will not know it.
They can be easily fixed when you open them up.
I took your advice and ordered a pair of higher quality aluminum steering knuckles instead of that cast iron crap, and I just bought and installed a super-torque hi-tec metal gear steering servo. As for the starting mechanism, I just invented my own (I call it the "ghetto start". Its not easy but it works.). I only got about $30 left in the piggy bank, which is probably not enough for a starter box. I'm only 16, and even though I have a job I still need to be thinking about bigger things such as college, which unfortunately means no Baja 5Bs for me. In the mean time, a little super strength super glue is holding the steering knuckle together. It was only the ring where the bottom screw screws into that cracked, not the actual knuckle itself
Last edited by sokar; 07-01-2009 at 03:34 PM.
07-01-2009, 05:43 PM
#42
Sounds like you could use a Savage truck.
07-01-2009, 06:19 PM
#43
I got a sliced up right hand that says otherwise. Pull starts are anything but easy to wind up.
I took your advice and ordered a pair of higher quality aluminum steering knuckles instead of that cast iron crap, and I just bought and installed a super-torque hi-tec metal gear steering servo. As for the starting mechanism, I just invented my own (I call it the "ghetto start". Its not easy but it works.). I only got about $30 left in the piggy bank, which is probably not enough for a starter box. I'm only 16, and even though I have a job I still need to be thinking about bigger things such as college, which unfortunately means no Baja 5Bs for me. In the mean time, a little super strength super glue is holding the steering knuckle together. It was only the ring where the bottom screw screws into that cracked, not the actual knuckle itself
I took your advice and ordered a pair of higher quality aluminum steering knuckles instead of that cast iron crap, and I just bought and installed a super-torque hi-tec metal gear steering servo. As for the starting mechanism, I just invented my own (I call it the "ghetto start". Its not easy but it works.). I only got about $30 left in the piggy bank, which is probably not enough for a starter box. I'm only 16, and even though I have a job I still need to be thinking about bigger things such as college, which unfortunately means no Baja 5Bs for me. In the mean time, a little super strength super glue is holding the steering knuckle together. It was only the ring where the bottom screw screws into that cracked, not the actual knuckle itself
??best of luck to you!
07-01-2009, 06:27 PM
#44
Tech Master
So what I want to know is when you called OFNA like I suggested & gave you the phone # what did they say?
07-01-2009, 07:25 PM
#45
The ghetto start involves using the insides of a pull start and using a string or your finger to rewind it yourself. I use a rusty wrench for the handle :P. I'm still looking to perfect it. I'll have more details later, I gotta go now. Thanks for the advice, 4006.
