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Old 06-29-2009, 08:47 AM   #1
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Default Help with removing engine mounts

Hi. I'm about to install my new engine. To do this, I have to remove the engine mounts, place them on the engine, and then place the whole thing on my kit.

The Engine Mounts Screws have been located, but they are very tight. I know I can heat them up with a hairdryer, but I'm afraid of all the plastic around the screws, I don't want to melt it.

Check picture for closer detail
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:44 AM   #2
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Is there any screws under the chassis? That would be best to loosen. You might want to invest in a quality hex set.
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:49 AM   #3
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Is there any screws under the chassis? That would be best to loosen.
If you are talking about these ones ( http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7655/screws.jpg ) then yes, there are screws under the chassis. But what would that be helping me with getting the engine mounts off? Also, would you be able to unscrew those tight screws with a quality hex driverset without heating up the screws?
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:14 PM   #4
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With a good hex driver set if I can't get them out by hand I put pliers where the grip on the hex driver is andpush the driver to the left. Try that would your allen wrenches too. I have never seen those kind of mounts. But I would try to take the screw that connects the mount out from the bottom of the chassis, and use something like the silver 4 way wrench you should have to get that nut held in place.
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:28 PM   #5
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... and use something like the silver 4 way wrench you should have to get that nut held in place.
What nut?
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:47 PM   #6
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even good quality drivers can strip screws just because the screw isnt the greatest quality. i would heat it up, just be careful, should be an issue i heat my motor up with a heat gun all the time on my 1/8th scale, never had an issue with meting anything
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:07 PM   #7
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Use the tip of a soldering iron, and touch it to the screw only for about 1 minute. you wont melt your plastic because you are concentrating the heat only on the screw
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:09 PM   #8
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Try using WD40, and if that doesn't work, try Liquid Wrench.

It can loosen anything.




















Seriously.



I'm not kidding.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:25 PM   #9
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Heat is one of the only thing's that will break the loc tite bond.....a Sharp Impact can also loosen them off....but unless you know what your doing you can break drivers pretty easy....my suggestion is the soldering iron trick and if that doesn't work use a small pocket torch and blast the screw's for 15-20 seconds....that SHOULD melt the loc tite.(Point the flame away from anything plastic....remove the radio tray and dirt guards if you feel the need to.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:28 PM   #10
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Soldering Iron, are you then meaning using the very tip of an iron on the screw?

Edit: Sorry, after some google research, I found out what it was. But can I use the end of an iron?

Last edited by helgso; 06-29-2009 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helgso View Post
Soldering Iron, are you then meaning using the very tip of an iron on the screw?

Edit: Sorry, after some google research, I found out what it was. But can I use the end of an iron?


like a cloth's iron ? uhh NO....a Soldering Iron.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:52 PM   #12
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like a cloth's iron ? uhh NO....a Soldering Iron.
Allright, if I get myself one of those, do I just point it at the point where the screw meets the chassis? Doesn't a soldering irons leave marks where they are used? It is not going to do damage to my screw or chassis?
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:27 PM   #13
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Take the longest Nail you can find in your garage..Put the flat end in a pair of pliers and heat the under end with a flame until it gets hot. Then touch the hot part of the nail (KEEP IT IN THE PLIERS!!) to the end of the screw where the Screwdriver would go. Hold it there until the nail is not hot anymore, and then instantly unscrew it while the screw is still hot..It will not harm anything or melt your plastic
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:22 PM   #14
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Jaz is on the right trail.Use the tip of the soldering iron just like you would use it to solder then do what integra said & give it a good whack.If you cant get a hammer on the screw head use a drift.A good whack may not be needed if you used so much locktite that the metal screw could not make contact with the aluminum mount & chassis.the good whack if your wondering is not to be mean to the screw its to shock the bond that occures between dissimilar metals(electrolosis)
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butch man View Post
Jaz is on the right trail.Use the tip of the soldering iron just like you would use it to solder then do what integra said & give it a good whack.If you cant get a hammer on the screw head use a drift.A good whack may not be needed if you used so much locktite that the metal screw could not make contact with the aluminum mount & chassis.the good whack if your wondering is not to be mean to the screw its to shock the bond that occures between dissimilar metals(electrolosis)
He doesn't even know what a soldering iron is Butch..I dont want him to burn his house down..the hot nail will work just the same, and he wont have to go buy the iron
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