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Old 06-25-2009, 05:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by token
Were you at the same track - was the weather warmer than usual? Same fuel. the tank almost empty when temp was taken?
Yeah, same track. Weather is same and ~30-32C. Same fuel and i temp it about 3/4 tank of fuel left.........Will update you all if i manage to run this weekend.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:12 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by CarCrazy
Normally "Rich" fuel settings don't make it run hot. I'm not so sure that dirt caking is the problem. Let us know what happens.
False-rich or pseudo-rich condition.
When an engine is ingesting much less than optimum volumetric efficiency, the fuel delivered for that amount of available air is too much, hence the rich or over-saturation of fuel to air mixture.
It could increase operating temperature in two ways:
First, by over loading the engine (inadequate power production to move the vehicle)
Second, in total loss oiling system engine, by limiting the amount of oil introduced into the engine (because oil percentage per amount of fuel delivered stays the same, less fuel means less oil)
This can be addressed (when caused by using very small venturi) by using fuel with less percentage of nitro, and higher oil content.
Torque level can be increased slightly by increasing static compression (using thinner shim)

Can also be addressed by increasing nitro level but still with higher oil content (but shim stays the same)
Using glow plug with higher heat rating might also help torque production. (Advancing timing)

One of the important factor at play here is volumetric efficiency.
This condition can also happen in high altitude or extremely hot environment.
Most people will need to tune this way when trying to get best fuel efficiency by way of decreasing the inlet diameter of the carb, thus limiting the maximum amount of air into the engine.
When air filter is blocked the effect is quite similar but not in a proportional and measurable value.

so my friends, this is what i think happening in tkhoo's suddenly hot engine, my friend's with over-oiled filter, and me trying to save fuel (hahaha)
Please add what i might forgot to mention, and correct where i got it wrong.

Lets discuss, it's quite a fun topic

To tkhoo: how often do you replace filter with clean one? I change outer layer evey 3 tanks max when track is overly dusty
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by orangbaligila
To tkhoo: how often do you replace filter with clean one? I change outer layer evey 3 tanks max when track is overly dusty
Hehehehe.......Almost 10-15 tanks didnt change outer layer filter with bandage on it......in dusty track. 3 tanks max and change outer layer is too offen for me...hehehe
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tkhoo
Hehehehe.......Almost 10-15 tanks didnt change outer layer filter with bandage on it......in dusty track. 3 tanks max and change outer layer is too offen for me...hehehe
I think safe to assume now that your probs caused by this
Easy what... Buy some replacement foams (3 or 4 set) not so expensive. Oil all and bring to track.
Every three tank change outer, next three tank change both.

Filter cheaper than engine

After use i think it's okay to wash, dry, oil, and re-use.
Just dont over-use it since foam degrades over time when you wash it and squeeze squeeze.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:55 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by orangbaligila
I think safe to assume now that your probs caused by this
Easy what... Buy some replacement foams (3 or 4 set) not so expensive. Oil all and bring to track.
Every three tank change outer, next three tank change both.

Filter cheaper than engine

After use i think it's okay to wash, dry, oil, and re-use.
Just dont over-use it since foam degrades over time when you wash it and squeeze squeeze.
Yeah, I hope this choking outer filter cause the high temp. Look like I need to change the outer layer every end of the bashing day. But I will retune the engine which what SteveP advice with clean outer filter
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:02 PM
  #21  
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Just an input.
To get a better understanding about the problem, eleminate the possible cause one at a time.
Don't do all at once. So you really know what was in effect.
Since your initial tuning was okay to start with, try just changing filter first.
Or don't change filter, but try to tune first
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by orangbaligila
Just an input.
To get a better understanding about the problem, eleminate the possible cause one at a time.
Don't do all at once. So you really know what was in effect.
Alright............and thanks.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:21 PM
  #23  
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Guys, last weekend was rain in my area so this weekend I will try out and get back to you all.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:23 PM
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I started out with brand new filters and had great engine life, i got cheap started washing until they were dead and started getting shorter engine life, now i'm going back to the buy more filters buy less engines mode.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bgbelden
I started out with brand new filters and had great engine life, i got cheap started washing until they were dead and started getting shorter engine life, now i'm going back to the buy more filters buy less engines mode.

+1 on use new filters. I never wash a filter the few bucks is well worth the peace of mind that my expensive mill is breathing well. I replace the inner and outer after a race day unless it's extreemly dusty then I might change 1 time on race day in the middle. Whatever you do, do not change the filter before a main and expect your engine to run like it did before you changed the filter because it won't.
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:59 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
+1 on use new filters. I never wash a filter the few bucks is well worth the peace of mind that my expensive mill is breathing well. I replace the inner and outer after a race day unless it's extreemly dusty then I might change 1 time on race day in the middle. Whatever you do, do not change the filter before a main and expect your engine to run like it did before you changed the filter because it won't.
+1 ....not before the main.
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Old 09-12-2009, 04:23 AM
  #27  
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Guys, it took too long for me to update you all my problem and finding. I dont have track time for the passed 2 month due to work and raining. Last week I able to retuned and run with clean filter and I managed to lower down the temp. Lately the LHS that I used to bought Sidewinder 25% fuel has stop selling 25% and now they selling Sidewinder 30%. But I have no plan to use 30% and get Maxy 25% which I able. May I know any different between this 2 brand? Thanks.
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Old 09-12-2009, 12:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CarCrazy
Ahhhh not again!!!!!

Ok, so you should defiantly oil both layers of your filter with oil, dont listen to anyone who tells you differently.

If you have problems with dirt getting in at the ends of the filter, or you have dirt sticking to the oiled outer filter, run one of these. They are thin cheap dry layer covers you can get on ebay for about $6.00. They are washable/re-usable.

Here is the link where you can find them, or search Nitro Filter Cover. They are kind of hard to find but worth every penny.

Filter Covers

Here is a pic:
These badboys work!


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Old 09-12-2009, 04:49 PM
  #29  
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I live in an area where the tracks are very dusty and the clay can cake on a filter virtually shutting it off. I do wash filters however I switch them out after ever race. I oil my filters lightly by pouring a couple of drops and working the oil throughout the entire filter. Some will say that working the oil through breaks down the filter, but I throw them out after about a half-dozen races anyway.

One investment I have made that has made a WORLD of difference is I bought an Outerwears cover. I am not sponsored by them and I have no affiliation whatsoever. I am only a extremely happy customer with the way those things keep dirt off my filters. I almost never get dirt on my inner filter ever (RC8 type of filter system)

I would look into the Outerwears.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tkhoo
. Lately the LHS that I used to bought Sidewinder 25% fuel has stop selling 25% and now they selling Sidewinder 30%. But I have no plan to use 30% and get Maxy 25% which I able. May I know any different between this 2 brand? Thanks.
Where/Who is selling the Maxy's? How's the performance? Wat plugs ur using? Thanks


Originally Posted by Frank L
Whatever you do, do not change the filter before a main and expect your engine to run like it did before you changed the filter because it won't.
I ALWAYS change the filter and CB bearings before the main
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