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Old 06-12-2009, 10:40 PM   #1
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Default nuts dropped per say

i have a vspec, and it has prob just under a gallon, i think i lost that metal pinch on it finally. it was temping at 250ish and after my 20 min main i came in at 206.

i started looking at it today, i dont feel a pinch, like resistance but i feel compression. my question is, can i 100% race tune this yet or do i wait longer? and now that the pinch is gone do i heat it up every time still??
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:03 PM   #2
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race tune it

it doesnt hurt to heat it up each time, but its not absolutely necessary
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:05 PM   #3
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race tune it

it doesnt hurt to heat it up each time, but its not absolutely necessary
thats what i was thinking, it takes a min or 2 but if im in a bind it wont hurt just to start.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:15 PM   #4
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after i start mine, i like to leave it on the box until its nice and warmed up

not sure why dudes just start it and throw it down all rich and sputtering
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:17 PM   #5
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OOOOO

and btw

im having glow plugs go out, ive had 3 plugs since break n, all p3. im thinking i may not of put all the shims in but im not 100%, i tried to check but all 4 screws are stripped for the head so i cant take it off. i hate vspec head screws btw, i have to buy a new set each time.ANYWAY

is there anyway to tell if there is enough clearance w.o takin the head off?

i plan on at 2 gallons stripping it and puttin new bearins and a new rod but i dont wanna drill the head before then
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:18 PM   #6
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after i start mine, i like to leave it on the box until its nice and warmed up

not sure why dudes just start it and throw it down all rich and sputtering
yup, i start mine, lightly tapping the throttle to get heat in the motor a good 5 min b4 a race, then the first warm up lap i take it easy.
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Old 06-13-2009, 04:36 AM   #7
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If you used a heat gun during breakin your rod and bearings should be fine.No need to replace.Your head bolts should not be stripping.Maybe your tools are worn out.Good luck.
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Old 06-13-2009, 04:41 AM   #8
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its a os i would replace the rod.... but yeah you should be fine to race tune it
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Old 06-13-2009, 07:19 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by pete 26 View Post
If you used a heat gun during breakin your rod and bearings should be fine.No need to replace.Your head bolts should not be stripping.Maybe your tools are worn out.Good luck.


Wrong....initial break in pinch on all race mills is Brutal on the rod...pre heating or not you should replace the rod on ANY race motor you expect to get any more then 5+ gallons out of.
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Old 06-13-2009, 01:41 PM   #10
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If you used a heat gun during breakin your rod and bearings should be fine.No need to replace.Your head bolts should not be stripping.Maybe your tools are worn out.Good luck.
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its a os i would replace the rod.... but yeah you should be fine to race tune it
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Wrong....initial break in pinch on all race mills is Brutal on the rod...pre heating or not you should replace the rod on ANY race motor you expect to get any more then 5+ gallons out of.
i had a rod go in this vspec 3/4th of a gallon. after that i put a ninja p/s in it and tko bearings. i pre heated it everytime, at the 2 gallon mark speed rod and brearings

and pete, tools are fine,its the bolts. when it was new i used proline tools, got 2 out and 2 stripped. when i rebuilt it i put new bolts in. my dad put new bearings in his vspec. different tools same result. now with the new bolts in mine i used a set of craftsman, same thing but all 4 now...... my proline tools dont strip screws so i know there not bad.
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Old 06-13-2009, 01:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
i had a rod go in this vspec 3/4th of a gallon. after that i put a ninja p/s in it and tko bearings. i pre heated it everytime, at the 2 gallon mark speed rod and brearings

and pete, tools are fine,its the bolts. when it was new i used proline tools, got 2 out and 2 stripped. when i rebuilt it i put new bolts in. my dad put new bearings in his vspec. different tools same result. now with the new bolts in mine i used a set of craftsman, same thing but all 4 now...... my proline tools dont strip screws so i know there not bad.


im gonna take a stab in the dark here...did you make sure the head bolts didn't have bunch of dried up mud caked in the socket ? that could easily allow the driver to not sit deep enough and strip out the screw's....but to claim the head bolts are weak is imo shenanigans...Very Very Few people ever strip out head bolts unless they are using the wrong size or its the older Nova/Rb flat head's which require a special size to proper snug them down or remove them.
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Old 06-13-2009, 02:06 PM   #12
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im gonna take a stab in the dark here...did you make sure the head bolts didn't have bunch of dried up mud caked in the socket ? that could easily allow the driver to not sit deep enough and strip out the screw's....but to claim the head bolts are weak is imo shenanigans...Very Very Few people ever strip out head bolts unless they are using the wrong size or its the older Nova/Rb flat head's which require a special size to proper snug them down or remove them.
I'm even using my Losi 3/32" wrench for the vspec head bolts and no signs of even wearing after taking the head off about 5 times (shiming issue). Is there any other screws that are the same dimensions as the vspec screw but in US so the head bolts will Never strip??
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Old 06-13-2009, 02:19 PM   #13
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Measure your screws and then search Tony's screws website..You'll never strip another one
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Old 06-13-2009, 02:30 PM   #14
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I'm even using my Losi 3/32" wrench for the vspec head bolts and no signs of even wearing after taking the head off about 5 times (shiming issue). Is there any other screws that are the same dimensions as the vspec screw but in US so the head bolts will Never strip??
That would probably end up in you stripping out the holes in the block. Unless you have acess to a machine shop who can retap the block to a bigger size I dont see and advantage to it.
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Old 06-13-2009, 03:58 PM   #15
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this may sound silly to some of you. But when you say rod, are you refering to the cone rod or the connecting rod? I have yet to have any issues with the head bolts. I have about 3 gallons on mine and it's running better then ever and still has good compression. So it would be a good idea to replace the rod? I don't want it to go, because i know if it does i will have to get a new engine or P/S and rod.

Yea, it's funny i know. My engine runs great and everybody on here knows what hell i put my poor little vspec through
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