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Old 06-07-2009, 01:05 PM   #1
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Default 8ight 1.0 Stability Issues

I'm having problems getting my buggy to be stable. it just doesn't 'feel' right on the track, then I see other people with 8ight's and they have plenty of traction, amazing steering, and their buggies just flow around the track. I am looking for it to be easier to drive, point and shoot to a point. From reading, it seems like the only thing to do is add weight but I'm not sure if I want to do that. So is there anything I can do to make it feel more flat footed/easier to drive fast? I have tried everything-from driving smooth to blipping it around the whole track and powersliding and can't find something that makes me feel comfortable. Diff setup right now is 5-5-1 with OS V-Spec. Tires are balanced but it still doesn't feel right.
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Old 06-07-2009, 03:52 PM   #2
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Put this setup in and run it. Car is awesome with this setup.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf

You could also try running a steel flywheel.
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:48 PM   #3
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Put this setup in and run it. Car is awesome with this setup.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf

You could also try running a steel flywheel.
I might get the steel flywheel but want to see some other quick and free setup solutions. Is it just me or was Truhe running a Novarossi when he is/was sponsored by Orion/GRP.

I was running 553 then switched to 551. To tell you the truth, I think i am a little faster with 551 and havent noticeda ny stability loss. Then when I talked to adam drake he said he never runs less than 2 in the rear diff. So can someone clearly explain the different from going from 1-2 or 3? I read in setup books but I never fully understodd. What is more stable and what has more steering and traction?

My buggy had the drake setup from the neo buggy race setup so some of the camber links (like shock tower holes and hub holes for different camber position so would that cause the it to have more steering/less stability? Someone just doesnt feel right.........
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:54 PM   #4
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Try going back up to 7k oil in the center diff. My cars (including the 8ight) have always felt "floaty" to me with lighter oil in the center. 2 and 3k in the rear should make for more of a posi-traction effect on throttle. If you go higher in the rear diff the car will be a little less locked in on high speed sweepers/high speed turns. 5k/7k/2k is perfect in an 8ight and 56 pistons with 25 or 27.5 oil in the rear shocks also helped stability a lot when I ran that car.
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:50 PM   #5
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I was have the same problem I could not keep the rear of the car underneath it. I when to 3F 5C 3R and the car feel so much better.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:25 PM   #6
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Try going back up to 7k oil in the center diff. My cars (including the 8ight) have always felt "floaty" to me with lighter oil in the center. 2 and 3k in the rear should make for more of a posi-traction effect on throttle. If you go higher in the rear diff the car will be a little less locked in on high speed sweepers/high speed turns. 5k/7k/2k is perfect in an 8ight and 56 pistons with 25 or 27.5 oil in the rear shocks also helped stability a lot when I ran that car.
I already have a lot of acceleration-so much that im going to all carbon shoes in the clutch. I'm a smooth driver so I dont really need tons of acceleration which the 8ight already has. I was told to try 54 40 silver up front, and 55 25 green in the back so i might go with that. I have no idea what pistons I have as the rear pistons are black.

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I was have the same problem I could not keep the rear of the car underneath it. I when to 3F 5C 3R and the car feel so much better.
What did you have before that? Would 3 in the front give alot more offpower steering, but not as much stability right?

I was thinking of just putting some more weight on my car. Any reason not to?
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:50 PM   #7
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I was told to try 54 40 silver up front, and 55 25 green in the back so i might go with that.

I was thinking of just putting some more weight on my car. Any reason not to?
Don't go 55/25wt, that will be WAY too soft. You need the 56 piston to use oil that light. 54/40wt up front is good. Don't add weight either, it won't do anything for you. Best thing to do is use the setup Jason posted. The 7k in the center diff will help, it makes the car settle down on power.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:07 PM   #8
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Don't go 55/25wt, that will be WAY too soft. You need the 56 piston to use oil that light. 54/40wt up front is good. Don't add weight either, it won't do anything for you. Best thing to do is use the setup Jason posted. The 7k in the center diff will help, it makes the car settle down on power.
Okay I guess I'll try 56/25 then. Won't 7k in center make the car harder to drive? I was looking and Losi setups, and came across the Stable and Easy to Drive setup, which is what I am looking for. Should I just go with that? The track i run on is Thunder Alley, there is a very quick video. Note that I was running a hitec 625mg for steering (90 .15) and a 16 year old futaba for throttle (42 .19) when I took that video. Now I have 7955tg for steering and airtronics 94357 (125 .07) for throttle and was still running my mach 427. Thanks!

http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...erAlley059.flv
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:42 PM   #9
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Nah, I think for what you're looking for the 7k will be better. It will accelerate harder but straighter. If it's not to your liking it's pretty easy to change at the track. Good servos are nice aren't they?
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:03 PM   #10
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7 k in back will give it looser feel on throttle as more power will go to the back. also thicker diff. fluid in back means more traction said your car is 1.0 correct if so run rear hubs all the way back upper link at inner hole at hub and inner upper at tower front get 2.0 carriers and run the inside hole on tower and carrier. diffs. if to loose in back run 5-5-2 or 5-3-2 also run +2mm rear hexes and try running blue shoes with green springs and composite shoes with black springs the hubs will help alot same with clutch springs should be planted with this setup if not try running the 2.0 extended chassis the longer wheel base of the 2.0 chasis will help alot. as for shocks on 1.0 found that 55 on 32.5 in rear was the best for me in loose conditions
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:31 PM   #11
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Nah, I think for what you're looking for the 7k will be better. It will accelerate harder but straighter. If it's not to your liking it's pretty easy to change at the track. Good servos are nice aren't they?
Yes they are great. I will try 7 then. But what I'm wondering is if I make every single change possible on the buggy, I won't know what part of the setup that is hurting me. Is the stable and easy to drive setup good for beginner drivers?

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Originally Posted by jewn_beef View Post
7 k in back will give it looser feel on throttle as more power will go to the back. also thicker diff. fluid in back means more traction said your car is 1.0 correct if so run rear hubs all the way back upper link at inner hole at hub and inner upper at tower front get 2.0 carriers and run the inside hole on tower and carrier. diffs. if to loose in back run 5-5-2 or 5-3-2 also run +2mm rear hexes and try running blue shoes with green springs and composite shoes with black springs the hubs will help alot same with clutch springs should be planted with this setup if not try running the 2.0 extended chassis the longer wheel base of the 2.0 chasis will help alot. as for shocks on 1.0 found that 55 on 32.5 in rear was the best for me in loose conditions
7k in center, not rear right? I have hubs all the way back. So I might go with 552, 352, or something with 7k center diff oil.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:00 PM   #12
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oops suppose to say 7 k in center will make it looser not back sorry for the typo thicker in center will send more power to back end making it looser so try running thinner 5-5-2 if still to loose try 5-3-2 one of these should be what you are looking for also rear block should be 3 toe and 3 squat dont for get to soften clutch springs greens and blacks will help a bunch
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:06 PM   #13
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oops suppose to say 7 k in center will make it looser not back sorry for the typo thicker in center will send more power to back end making it looser so try running thinner 5-5-2 if still to loose try 5-3-2 one of these should be what you are looking for also rear block should be 3 toe and 3 squat dont for get to soften clutch springs greens and blacks will help a bunch
Thats what I was thinking, something with 5 in center as I've read alot of setup guides and they all seem it is harder to drive with higher weight center. Right now I have Dynamite MaxLife with green and gold springs. I have about a gallon or 2 on them (should last a couple tanks more until the spring hits the clutch bell). Again, how is the losi stable and easy to drive setup? Since I like offpower steering, 3 should suit me well.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:46 PM   #14
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here is what i liked the best 4 set up
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:49 PM   #15
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here is what i liked the best 4 set up
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
I will get the clutch springs. How long can you normally get before replacing shoes? I was hoping around 2 gallons because I'm a cheapskape.
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