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Old 05-25-2009, 10:19 PM   #1
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Default Looking for tips on taking jumps

So I recently started racing at some local tracks with my buggy. I was watching the pros hit the jumps and MAN, do they ever make it look easy!

What are some tips for a noob on taking jumps. I am looking for tips how to use the throttle before, during and after launching off a ramp.

How to hit and land large jumps, table tops and doubles.

This weekend I spent more time on my nose and lid than on my wheels!
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:30 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Galeleo View Post
So I recently started racing at some local tracks with my buggy. I was watching the pros hit the jumps and MAN, do they ever make it look easy!

What are some tips for a noob on taking jumps. I am looking for tips how to use the throttle before, during and after launching off a ramp.

How to hit and land large jumps, table tops and doubles.

This weekend I spent more time on my nose and lid than on my wheels!

You just have to time it right and use your judgement. Its all Physics.

more practice and you will get them down in no time!!!
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
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Jumping is all about speed judgement and squaring up for it. Sometimes this means slowing up slightly to square up, then punching it. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground and spin your ties so you have to have your car setup for jumps with short run ups and learn how to use the throttle more effectively to keep the car from breaking loose. You can also play with your clutch adjustments to track conditions. Then (something a lot of people don't mention when talking about jumping) is having your brakes setup correctly so you can adjust your car in the air. For 1/8 scale 4wd you need to have your brakes biased towards the rear. My car for example, if I pull full brakes I can roll the front wheels of the car on the ground and the rear will be locked. If both your front and rear wheels lock when you jam the brakes in the air you will not be able to bring the nose down.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:32 PM   #4
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Jumping is all about speed judgement and squaring up for it. Sometimes this means slowing up slightly to square up, then punching it. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground so you have to have your car setup for jumps with short run ups. Then (something a lot of people don't mention when talking about jumping) is having your brakes setup correctly so you can adjust your car in the air. For 1/8 scale 4wd you need to have your brakes biased towards the rear. My car for example, if I pull full brakes I can roll the front wheels of the car on the ground and the rear will be locked. If both your front and rear wheels lock when you jam the brakes in the air you will not be able to bring the nose down.
+1...very good tip
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:40 PM   #5
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Its kinda like riding a d irt bike..If your not running wide open when you hit the jump then heres a tip..IF you still have throttle to grap, goose it at the bottom of the jump it will preload the shock(like a mono shock on a dirt bike) ..This will give you good lift off the lip of the jump..Great for big jumps with short run ups..While in the air you can control your car by using the throttle..If your nose down get on the gas and it will bring the nose of the car up..If your nose is way up tapping the brakes will bring the nose back down.....Remember you always want to land down siding the landing of the jump...There are a lot of tricks you can do in the air to correct yourself but learn these basics first then move on the the more advance technics
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:41 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mfrosty View Post
Jumping is all about speed judgement and squaring up for it. Sometimes this means slowing up slightly to square up, then punching it. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground and spin your ties so you have to have your car setup for jumps with short run ups and learn how to use the throttle more effectively to keep the car from breaking loose. You can also play with your clutch adjustments to track conditions. Then (something a lot of people don't mention when talking about jumping) is having your brakes setup correctly so you can adjust your car in the air. For 1/8 scale 4wd you need to have your brakes biased towards the rear. My car for example, if I pull full brakes I can roll the front wheels of the car on the ground and the rear will be locked. If both your front and rear wheels lock when you jam the brakes in the air you will not be able to bring the nose down.
This sounds all and good until you brake hard and the rear end swaps with the front!!
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:42 PM   #7
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I'm also new to racing. Last time at the track I was experimenting with counter turning when you are in the air. I think this is kinda like when your buggy is in the air and the right or left side of the car is at an angle. Turning the other way to straighten up the buggy and accelerating will help straighten it up. Maybe someone can better werd this better than I can.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:44 PM   #8
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I'm also new to racing. Last time at the track I was experimenting with counter turning when you are in the air. I think this is kinda like when your buggy is in the air and the right or left side of the car is at an angle. Turning the other way to straighten up the buggy and accelerating will help straighten it up. Maybe someone can better werd this better than I can.
This some of those advanced technics I was talking about....
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:46 PM   #9
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Practice at the track alot. It just comes to you.

Practice makes perfect.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:50 PM   #10
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welcome to RC tech.. and to offroad racing!!!

There are alot of things in common with motorcross or general jumping of a dirt bike or quad.. You can preload the car.. and gas and brake and effect the cars balance in air.. in a 4wd its even more dramatic

we will start with some basics..

Nose up.... Hitting the brakes will help bring the nose down.. if its just slightly nosed up and you would land okay hit them just before touchdown will help your car settle into the ground.. you want to try to land just ever so slightly front wheels first.. or level..

Nose down.. you probly guessed by now hitting the gas will help bring your nose back up.. if your really really bad you may have to wind it up let off and wind again.. carefull not to hit the brakes or give much time between winds.. more of a spool to full throttle let off then right back into full throtle this can be done the whole time your in the air.. also stayin on the throttle in a situation that your still not leveled out at landing can help pull the rear down.. you might over shoot the line at the corner but it might save the wreck,, ( this is generally followed by a brake and a prayer to not go out of the track or off your line too much!! )

Preloading your suspension!! This is important once you can jump and land 80% of the jumps you encounter. this may be the key to the jumps others are clearing that seem impossible to you. on a bike or quad your a rider you would simply use your wieght to load the suspension just before take off. with your rc its just a bit more complicated.. all you have to preload is the throttle . what to do line up the jump as normal aproach as normal but let off a few feet before the jump the car will settle then blast the throttle at the face and let off just before the lip of the jump. this will effectively load your suspension and if done right generally gives a few extra inches of lift and lenght to the jump..

The advanced..

you'll see some pro's have a style.. they like to hit the brakes then gas then correct on big jumps.. I'm just not that co ordinated.. or that good yet.. but I think its show boating.. someone else if there is something to this please fill in!!!!

Turning wheels while on the gas can have effects in the air on 4 wd cars.. I have also read some say it can help set up for corners after a jump.. I have not quite mastered this.. so someone else might be able to help more..

I have also seen and used this although it can play hell on servos.. jogging your steering left to right very quickly can help settle the car in the air.. this is more of a left to right leveling.. than anything else.. and although I have seen some pros do it on almost any jump I have only used it on jumps that consistently send me crooked..

Another thing that may help... if you dont make it and are flipping end to end .. wheel to wheel.. nailing your throttle just before the wheels touch surface can have a massive effect and help you to right on your wheels.. steering while doing this can help as well.. depending
I hope this helps I'm sure there is more but its everything I know at this time!
Guys I'd love to hear more!!
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:05 PM   #11
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This sounds all and good until you brake hard and the rear end swaps with the front!!
Key is to have enough front not to do that. Also helps cornering under braking, you can't get around a sharp turn if your front wheels are locked and pushing through the corner
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:39 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mfrosty View Post
Key is to have enough front not to do that. Also helps cornering under braking, you can't get around a sharp turn if your front wheels are locked and pushing through the corner
Braking is a very personal set up... but you never want your fronts to lock period,, after that its on you..
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:29 AM   #13
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Play a few video games (PS2's God of War, Gran Tourismo 4, Devil May Cry) to get your finger coordination and visual timing right, and put on a HD wing as it makes the car much more predictable during flight.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:34 AM   #14
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If both your front and rear wheels lock when you jam the brakes in the air you will not be able to bring the nose down.

Frosty (are you the FstC that was racing in TX +-10yrs ago?) not sure I agree with you on this one... because that would mean that one would need a biased throttle to nose the car up in the air on throttle... and there's no such thing needed. Pull the trigger, it lifts the nose. Likewise, slam the brakes, il noses down... with our without bias.

Anyways... as said before... practice makes perfect. If you can, try to practice with a 2WD mod 10th scaler, you'll learn even quicker as this category is prolly the most responsive to throttle control of the whole RC world. Before running my MBX6 a the track, I kinda like to do a pack with my sensorless-BL-equipped AS B4, helps me "warm up"... and the big 4wd car then feels MUCH easier to drive

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Old 05-26-2009, 04:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrosty View Post
Jumping is all about speed judgement and squaring up for it. Sometimes this means slowing up slightly to square up, then punching it. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground and spin your ties so you have to have your car setup for jumps with short run ups and learn how to use the throttle more effectively to keep the car from breaking loose. You can also play with your clutch adjustments to track conditions. Then (something a lot of people don't mention when talking about jumping) is having your brakes setup correctly so you can adjust your car in the air. For 1/8 scale 4wd you need to have your brakes biased towards the rear. My car for example, if I pull full brakes I can roll the front wheels of the car on the ground and the rear will be locked. If both your front and rear wheels lock when you jam the brakes in the air you will not be able to bring the nose down.

I think I have to disagree on part of this. The brake bias depends on driving style- some drivers like to "toss" the car and use brakes to turn... then having rear bias is helpful, as it "unsticks" the rear wheels to make the car rotate harder. Other drivers like to roll corners smoothly, in which case front brake bias keeps the car more stable. This is simply a matter of driver preference. I personally like front brake bias, it makes the car easier to control... and I also personally think front brake bias is better for a beginning driver for the same reason.

Additionally, weight transfer means that the front brakes are actually capable of providing more stopping power than rear brakes... and an absolutely even bias between the two will still "feel like" having rear bias as the rear tires are "unloaded" by weight transfer which allows them to lock up sooner, causing the rear to unstick.

Having front or rear bias will have little effect on the reaction of the car to brake input in the air- applying the brakes in the air reacts against the spinning wheels, transferring that rotation to the chassis to bring the nose down. It doesn't really matter if it is the front or rear wheels that are providing more of that force, it is all about the inertia of the wheels being opposed by the brakes, therefore transferring the rotation to the chassis. (That's why a truggy reacts harder to throttle/brake input in the air... bigger, heavier wheels have more inertia to utilize.)
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