OS V-Spec Tuning and Break-In TIps
05-24-2009, 09:57 PM
#1
OS V-Spec Tuning and Break-In TIps
I'm about to break in my vspec tomorrow, that is if I get my electronics to work (read my thread electronics not working) and was wondering if there was any break in/tuning tips to not this engine good for 3 gallons, then blows. So far for breakin im going to heat up to 200 with heat gun, aluminum foil on head and idle it for 2 tanks keeping temps around 200-220 then slowly getting more rpm's until tank 12 where I finally can go WOT for extended periods of time, letting the engine cool down at bdc every 3-4 minutes of runtime. Ive used this method on a Mach 427 and runs flawlessly with great compression. But then again they are 2 completely different engines. Also, any tuning tips? Ive read that OS's tune alot different and to not use the Ron Paris tuning "bible" as that only applies to nvoarossi based engines.
05-24-2009, 11:09 PM
#2
I just broke in a new speed using a modified johnnycoolguy.com heat cycle method. I did the heat cycles on the starter box, the head wrapped with alum foil and a heat gun to keep the temp at 200 to 225 so I could monitor the temps more closely. Be patient with the vspec it has a lot of initial pinch. I heat cycled 5x at 3 min intervals and then 5x at 5 min intervals (letting it cool to ambient temp completely in-between cycles), ran 2 tanks through it on the ground with a 75% tune and then hit the track for full race tune. It took about 3 quarts before the speed loosened up. The temp was averaging 230-245 with decent power and speed but I knew it could do better. After 2 5 min quals and 2 days of practice (approx 10 tanks each day). Suddenly after the 15 min b-main the the engine came in at 205. Then it was ready to full race tune. The pinch when it was warm also lost its hard stick at the top and the engine freed up. It took about 3-4 quarts of fuel, so be patient and you will be rewarded. I was told to keep the temp in the 220 to 245 range with good smoke throughout the power band and that seemed to work just fine. The speed is a monster now, I love it. So best advice is do the heatcycle correctly and dont rush the full race tune. BTW I completed 23 min out of 30 in the A-main (got the bump) and then DNF due to a throttle servo going out.
05-24-2009, 11:14 PM
#3
When you said you heat cycled it 5x at 3min and then 5x at 5m, were you blipping the throttle alot to get the rpms up or were you just idling it on the box? I was planning on idlign it on the box for 1 tank, then on the ground for the next day then run it.
05-25-2009, 12:12 AM
#4
I'm a Factory O.S. Driver...
Idle a tank with a rag wrapped around the head.
After that tank, fill her up and lean the top an hour or so and do some figure eights in your driveway until it runs out of fuel. Bring the engine to bottom dead center; do the same thing with a fresh tank of fuel after it cools down. I do this twice and then put a race tune on my engine. I get at LEAST 5-7 gallons out of every stock VZB I've ever owned.
Idle a tank with a rag wrapped around the head.
After that tank, fill her up and lean the top an hour or so and do some figure eights in your driveway until it runs out of fuel. Bring the engine to bottom dead center; do the same thing with a fresh tank of fuel after it cools down. I do this twice and then put a race tune on my engine. I get at LEAST 5-7 gallons out of every stock VZB I've ever owned.
05-25-2009, 06:13 PM
#5
Well, I idled 2 tanks, then went to start it after it cooled down, nothing. Glow plug died....Looks like I will have to wait 2 days as I highly doubt my LHS carries OS P3 plugs, which I dont even go to. Also, I leanred a good lesson with the starter box. If the flywheel isnt moving, STOP. I put a huge hole in the wheel from it kept going when it was stuck at TDC.
05-25-2009, 06:19 PM
#6
There is a very informative thread right above this one,,,, or it will be as soon as I hit submit reply. I suggest you read it as it the best way to break a motor in for the gallons of use your are looking for.
05-25-2009, 06:33 PM
#7
I'm a Factory O.S. Driver...
Idle a tank with a rag wrapped around the head.
After that tank, fill her up and lean the top an hour or so and do some figure eights in your driveway until it runs out of fuel. Bring the engine to bottom dead center; do the same thing with a fresh tank of fuel after it cools down. I do this twice and then put a race tune on my engine. I get at LEAST 5-7 gallons out of every stock VZB I've ever owned.
Idle a tank with a rag wrapped around the head.
After that tank, fill her up and lean the top an hour or so and do some figure eights in your driveway until it runs out of fuel. Bring the engine to bottom dead center; do the same thing with a fresh tank of fuel after it cools down. I do this twice and then put a race tune on my engine. I get at LEAST 5-7 gallons out of every stock VZB I've ever owned.
05-27-2009, 07:32 PM
#8
Well bump.....
I just finish with tank 9-10 on my V-Spec. Running really good. With tons of tin foil on the head and having to come in to heat the engine with a heat gun every minute or 2 to get it to stay up at temps (should run at about 150 without foil) and my throtttle servo is at 75% from WOT, it has surpassed my expectations. I expect to go WOT by tank 12.
Like I said, really easing it into race tune.
I just finish with tank 9-10 on my V-Spec. Running really good. With tons of tin foil on the head and having to come in to heat the engine with a heat gun every minute or 2 to get it to stay up at temps (should run at about 150 without foil) and my throtttle servo is at 75% from WOT, it has surpassed my expectations. I expect to go WOT by tank 12.
Like I said, really easing it into race tune.
05-27-2009, 07:54 PM
#9
After using this method on the OS speed it still took another 4-5 tanks before the stick at TDC was gone. So like the OS rep 12 tanks sounds about right.
05-27-2009, 08:15 PM
#10
I noticed this engine has a lot of pinch at TDC, where my Truggy Box wouldnt even turn it over at times. I have a huge gap in the starter wheel as this was my first time using a bump box. I didnt really do time intervals. For the 1st tank, I ran it down until 1/2 tank. For the 2nd I ran a full tank. I tried to combine all the method-from idling it on the box, to heat cycling, to WOT as rich as it can be for 3 tanks. So bascially I tried to put as much tin foil as possible and urn it as rich as possible.
05-27-2009, 08:27 PM
#11
I dont waste to much time with break in on the VSPEC. I run a full tank through it wide open but really really really rich. Then put a race tune on it and go... No problems doing 2 regular vspec and a Speed this way.... If you spend to much fuel on break in, the motor will be worn out by the time you get to racing.
05-27-2009, 08:47 PM
#12
I dont waste to much time with break in on the VSPEC. I run a full tank through it wide open but really really really rich. Then put a race tune on it and go... No problems doing 2 regular vspec and a Speed this way.... If you spend to much fuel on break in, the motor will be worn out by the time you get to racing.
05-27-2009, 09:39 PM
#13
I dont waste to much time with break in on the VSPEC. I run a full tank through it wide open but really really really rich. Then put a race tune on it and go... No problems doing 2 regular vspec and a Speed this way.... If you spend to much fuel on break in, the motor will be worn out by the time you get to racing.
