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temp tunning question

temp tunning question

Old 05-23-2009, 09:18 PM
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ok got a simple question, when tunning by temp, where is the correct spot to take the temp at?

ive heard on the head, on the block, and ive even heard people say the edge of the exhaust.


so whats the right spot to check it at?

also, what temp is the safe, or correct temp?

i have a hotbodies lighting stadium with the hpi motor, i belive its a .28 and i also have a lst2 with the stock 427
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:33 PM
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glow plug is what i see the most, but i warn you. tunning by temp really isn't the best way to adjust your engine. i use my temp gun only wile breking in an engine to make sure i keep the temp above 180. i only know what my temp is after a race because it's always done by my pit guys. but in all accuallity, i can tell them what the temp is before they put the temp gun on my engine. 220-230 is ware i come off the track at with a v-spec.

i feel they are a "crutch".

imo
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Old 05-23-2009, 10:41 PM
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Temps are to be used as an indication only that you may be ruining your engine. You always want to tune for performance, sound and smoke from the pipe. Take temps inside the cooling head, right next to the plug. The plug dissipates heat, so temp the inside of the head itself..If you temp at 275..richen it up a tad, but anything under that, if your engine is tuned right, dont worry about it. A properly tuned engine with the correct ambient conditions should never exceed 250..unless its an RB..RB's run good at 300, or so I am told
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:08 AM
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I only temp to make sure im not above 265f. Tune by sound, performance and smoke. Close a possible to the plug.
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead racer
I only temp to make sure im not above 265f. Tune by sound, performance and smoke. Close a possible to the plug.
same with me, i just check to make sure its not a high temp. i tune it and after i think its good then i hit the temp gun
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:37 AM
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Temping is only for safety measures. You don't want to be above 275 or below 200 on any engine. The exception to the rule being the now defunked GRP which operated right at 200 or below. Probally is why there now out of business. 300 is the magic kill number for engines. They won't die because you have reached this number but you should immediately shut it down and inspect for other problems I.e. Airleaks, cb bearings, engine bearings, engine alignment bad clutch shoes ect...

As far as RB's operating at 300 that's not true. My RB's and all I have ran across fall into the same operating range. Above 200 but below 275. A
Good temp is right about 220 or 230. A car coming off the track at 200 to 210 was probally operating below 200 in the infield (technical part of track). Where engine does not wind up as high creating heat to maintain correct engine temp.

What you want is constant smoke through entire rpm band. How much smoke depends on engine type and fuel used. You also want a snappy engine an engine that responds to throttle input at all bands. This is where your temp gauge comes in to play. As a reference to what the temp was to achieve correct performance. On that days ambient temp and humidity. Which as a rookie will start teaching you correct tuning points for your engine in different weather situations.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:40 AM
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ok all very helpful.

whats funny, is i just now got a temp gun, ive always tunned by smoke, and responseiveness. and how much power it makes. and tried to use the spit method, lol.



i need to re temp the motors inside the head, to malke sure there not too hot. they both seem to make great power, the losi seems way rich at bottom end, but runs great after about a foot.

the hpi takes a extra min to warm up, but after a 40-60 secs of running, it makes all kinds of power.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vladconnery
Temping is only for safety measures. You don't want to be above 275 or below 200 on any engine. The exception to the rule being the now defunked GRP which operated right at 200 or below. Probally is why there now out of business. 300 is the magic kill number for engines. They won't die because you have reached this number but you should immediately shut it down and inspect for other problems I.e. Airleaks, cb bearings, engine bearings, engine alignment bad clutch shoes ect...

As far as RB's operating at 300 that's not true. My RB's and all I have ran across fall into the same operating range. Above 200 but below 275. A
Good temp is right about 220 or 230. A car coming off the track at 200 to 210 was probally operating below 200 in the infield (technical part of track). Where engine does not wind up as high creating heat to maintain correct engine temp.

What you want is constant smoke through entire rpm band. How much smoke depends on engine type and fuel used. You also want a snappy engine an engine that responds to throttle input at all bands. This is where your temp gauge comes in to play. As a reference to what the temp was to achieve correct performance. On that days ambient temp and humidity. Which as a rookie will start teaching you correct tuning points for your engine in different weather situations.
x2. but, some temp guns will read up to 30 degrees different. all winter i used a losi temp/tuner..consistantly 20 degrees higher than my exergen gun. i was seeing my rb at 280+(bad numbers, which was actually about 260 (but didnt know how different losi temp gauge was at time from better temp guns) and 260's a good number on an empty tank)and at times and my grp at 190 which means it was running at about 170. also keep temp gun very clean. dirt will give you a poor reading everytime.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vladconnery
Temping is only for safety measures. You don't want to be above 275 or below 200 on any engine. The exception to the rule being the now defunked GRP which operated right at 200 or below. Probally is why there now out of business. 300 is the magic kill number for engines. They won't die because you have reached this number but you should immediately shut it down and inspect for other problems I.e. Airleaks, cb bearings, engine bearings, engine alignment bad clutch shoes ect...


What you want is constant smoke through entire rpm band. How much smoke depends on engine type and fuel used. You also want a snappy engine an engine that responds to throttle input at all bands. This is where your temp gauge comes in to play. As a reference to what the temp was to achieve correct performance. On that days ambient temp and humidity. Which as a rookie will start teaching you correct tuning points for your engine in different weather situations.
GRP's are one of the best engines that was made. They should not have went out of business. All engines run at different temps. GRP's have so much power running at low temp. I have non-tuned and tuned GRP and both of them are monsters. I dont want to buy another engine. Lets not forget the fuel mileage that they give. 10+ min without a problem and they last 10+ gallons.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:36 PM
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I was not refering to GRP's as bad engines. More I was pointing out the fact that because the standard for engine temp range is above 200 but below 275. People were running them in the standard range where there performance was based in another range (below 200).

Yes you are correct all engines even engines of the same manufactor and make operate in different ranges. No 2 engines are the same each is as individual as a fingerprint. Thats why the standard operating range is so wide.

As far as whether I like GRP's or not I don't. I have watch to many GRP's take a dump in the 1st 2 gallons. Some being driven by sportsmen and some by Pro's. To me if you get a good one you got a beast on your hands. If you don't you got a paperweight on your desk.

I'm the only one thats running picco that I have seen so far i my area. However I didn't choose it by choice. Ran across a good deal that included one. Hell how was I to know it was a true beast. So I bought another and will continue to buy them. One things for sure Its not flaming over heating. I never lack power and there is NO engines walking the dog here. I have ran up against pretty much all of them. I'm not saying I can out race them. heck not many can I out race, but power for power top end for top end the engine leaves no doubt!! Even against buggy's. I don't think I have the best engine it's just quality with a dump truck of power.

I'm glad your proud of your GRP's continue to run them. When you exhaust your GRP supply. Go get a Nova or a Picco and you will have more power. With waaaay more reliability. 10+ Gallons well thats some real rare performance there. I mean considering the short time that they have been on the market what 18-24 months. Your talking stuff that legends are made of you know. I mean thats some Nova, RB type longevity there. Those are companies that have been in the game heck almost as long as there has been a game. Oh the ever elusive 10+ min run time NO COMMENT!!!!

On a side note if it was such a great engine I'm sure Drake would have never walked away. Not to mention they would probably still be in biz if the engine held up it's end of the bargain. Performance, Power and reliability.
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vladconnery
I was not refering to GRP's as bad engines. More I was pointing out the fact that because the standard for engine temp range is above 200 but below 275. People were running them in the standard range where there performance was based in another range (below 200).

Yes you are correct all engines even engines of the same manufactor and make operate in different ranges. No 2 engines are the same each is as individual as a fingerprint. Thats why the standard operating range is so wide.

As far as whether I like GRP's or not I don't. I have watch to many GRP's take a dump in the 1st 2 gallons. Some being driven by sportsmen and some by Pro's. To me if you get a good one you got a beast on your hands. If you don't you got a paperweight on your desk.

I'm the only one thats running picco that I have seen so far i my area. However I didn't choose it by choice. Ran across a good deal that included one. Hell how was I to know it was a true beast. So I bought another and will continue to buy them. One things for sure Its not flaming over heating. I never lack power and there is NO engines walking the dog here. I have ran up against pretty much all of them. I'm not saying I can out race them. heck not many can I out race, but power for power top end for top end the engine leaves no doubt!! Even against buggy's. I don't think I have the best engine it's just quality with a dump truck of power.

I'm glad your proud of your GRP's continue to run them. When you exhaust your GRP supply. Go get a Nova or a Picco and you will have more power. With waaaay more reliability. 10+ Gallons well thats some real rare performance there. I mean considering the short time that they have been on the market what 18-24 months. Your talking stuff that legends are made of you know. I mean thats some Nova, RB type longevity there. Those are companies that have been in the game heck almost as long as there has been a game. Oh the ever elusive 10+ min run time NO COMMENT!!!!

On a side note if it was such a great engine I'm sure Drake would have never walked away. Not to mention they would probably still be in biz if the engine held up it's end of the bargain. Performance, Power and reliability.
I dont know what engine I will get next. I am think I might try the Nova. That was my choice before the GRP. The only reason i got GRP is because my LHS guy runs them and he is one of the best around. I never thought of spending 350 for a engine till I saw his run at the track. When I got mines I saw the power and the mileage was good. When I heard the non-tuned run better than the tuned I brought one of them too.

On that side note-I dont know why they went out of business but oh well. All I can say is shit happens.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:04 AM
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you will be happy with a nova.
+4 - great for a Buggy
P5xst - Buggy/Truggy
Toro Nero - Truggy (insane in a Buggy)

All Great Mills.
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