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Old 05-24-2009, 10:47 AM   #76
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What pipe then??
I currently run an OS 2050 pipe with an EB mod header, i get 10+ minutes per tank on my buggy running a 14T clutchbell....runs awesome

Stock Vspecs cant be beat man, i am on my 3rd rebuild with the same crankcase, head button, back plate, cooling head and front bearing (stock bearing). My next rebuild will be with Speed internals and a new backplate along with a new front bearing and of course a TKO rear ceramic bearing....excellent luck with such engines, my current stock engine is at 6 gallons and runs strong...ran it at thunder alley JBRL race, throughout the 20 minutes of runtime we were allowed to have, which included practice, one heat, and my main (bummer) i had zero time to tune my engine, ran great.

I run it now for practice and club races and runs awesome. all around great motor for the money.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:49 PM   #77
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I'm thinkin of buying a v-spec, wondering if a dynamite 086 pipe will work with it.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:30 PM   #78
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Better off with a Dynamite 007 or 053. I have a 007 but going to try a os 2050.
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:24 PM   #79
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I'm thinkin of buying a v-spec, wondering if a dynamite 086 pipe will work with it.


I have yet to see a motor perform poorly on a dyna 086...imo its an all around good pipe that perform's very well on lots of motors.
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:26 PM   #80
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i have tried the 086 on the vspec, didnt really care for it, seemed flat compared to the 2060 or ae2035 pipe
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:46 PM   #81
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thanks guys, but which will give me better fuel mileage?
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:51 PM   #82
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Probably a 2050.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:05 PM   #83
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2050 will get you great fuel mileage and very good power all around only pipe to run on the vspecs or speeds
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:52 PM   #84
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ive had 2 v spec cases crack on me out of 8 of them ive owned... both times i took them to my local hobby shop and he sent them back and both times they were replaced....maybe this is the advantage of dealing with a local hobby shop instead of online purchasing ....when you buy local chances are the owner will get to know you and can defend your driving and mechanical ability to a manufactuer thus giving good reason they should replace the part....

both of mine that cracked were on the bottom of the case and both time the engines were in a losi buggy...both time also occured from repeated flat landings of a big jump one of our local indoor tracks had...i still continue to use them....have you even tried contacting o.s instead of great plains...i bet youd have better luck....great plains deals with about 10 guys like you a day claiming deffective part when in reality its the operators fault....exhaust all efforts to get it replaced before coming on here and slammming one of the greatest engines ever designed.....
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:20 PM   #85
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I had the throttle servo go out in the middle of a main today and the throttle was stuck wide open. The rubber return was not strong enough to pull the carb closed. The speed ran the truck up a fence. Luckily a guy watching saw it and slammed it on the ground till it turned off. I we it after and it fired right up, idled smooth and reved like it did before. The speed survived the incident.

On a different note I was running the speed in an 8t 2.0 and it was perfect. The truck cleared the jumps easily, was very controlable and was getting about 9:30 with a dyn 053. It needs a different pipe to open up the top but it ran great. I ran across a auth dealer who can get me a 2060 pipe and a 2050 headed. He said that's he winning ticket in a truggy. The speed is the best engine I have owned yet. I would definatly drop the cash on another, and I have never seen an engine with more bling. Good job os.
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:38 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonytiger View Post
ive had 2 v spec cases crack on me out of 8 of them ive owned... both times i took them to my local hobby shop and he sent them back and both times they were replaced....maybe this is the advantage of dealing with a local hobby shop instead of online purchasing ....when you buy local chances are the owner will get to know you and can defend your driving and mechanical ability to a manufactuer thus giving good reason they should replace the part....

both of mine that cracked were on the bottom of the case and both time the engines were in a losi buggy...both time also occured from repeated flat landings of a big jump one of our local indoor tracks had...i still continue to use them....have you even tried contacting o.s instead of great plains...i bet youd have better luck....great plains deals with about 10 guys like you a day claiming deffective part when in reality its the operators fault....exhaust all efforts to get it replaced before coming on here and slammming one of the greatest engines ever designed.....

I heard useing the one piece motor mount is supposed to help keep that from happening, due to less chassis flex..
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:02 PM   #87
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If you are cracking engine mount tabs with a 2-piece engine mount, loosen the motor mounts from the bottom of the chassis. After you loosen them, screw one side of the engine in from the top and then screw the other side in. More often than not, the cracked motor tabs are a result of the screws being screwed in at an awkward angle and causing torsion on the tabs. The screws should go in easily.

It may also be too large a gap under the front bearing housing, which let's the engine case bounce off the chassis; which leads to a stressed case. A guy on Sgrid had an excellent counter-measure for this: Per CHAWCHIN on the Grid:

If the cases are cracking at the mounting ears (most likely), get some
rubber bumpers like the ones that go on cabinet doors. They are the
little self adhesive bumpers that keep the cabinent doors from
slamming shut, and can be found at home depot etc. Clean the chassis
and stick the bumper just behind the flywheel hole in the chassis.
This prevents the motor from flexing forward and stressing the
mounting ears. The bumper will support the case underneath the front
bearing. I have tried this and it seems to solve the problem.
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:12 PM   #88
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Better yet break down and buy a one piece motor mount like one from king heads or fiorini. Most engines need the added support especially if they have any kinda power at all. That sould tell you something about the vspec.....
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:28 PM   #89
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"Power" has nothing to do it with it. It's pretty much user-error when it comes to broken engine mount tabs. Just remember that you should never have to FORCE your engine mount bolts into the threads; they should drop in easily.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:57 AM   #90
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+1, i use to run a single engine mount on my old 5R, been running a 2 piece for a while now, no issues. need to make sure you mount the engine correctly (flush) and make sure everything is secured after each outing.

+1 on the 2050 for power and mileage, however, the 2060 would be more fit for buggy, more smooth. If you are on budget, buy the RE11 and RE10 Losi pipes, the RE10 is suppose to be equivalent to the 2060 and the RE11 is suppose to be equivalent to the 2050. i have th RE10 to give a whirl, pipe looks nice and durable...not bad for 69 dollars!
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