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Old 05-18-2009, 09:30 AM   #1
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Default V-spec problems with top end.

Raced my V-spec this weekend and was having problems getting any top end speed out of it. It's always run fine, and has about 2 gallons thru it. Here's the set up: ST-RR with 13 tooth bell/50 tooth main gear; answer-RC aluminum shoes with 2 black & 1 gold spring (recommended by Jaz); Losi RE-11 pipe. It was running about 240-250 on a very hot 100 degree day, and the tune seemed fine. Had plenty of low end punch, no hesitation what-so-ever, just lacked straightaway speed. Any suggestions??
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:47 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by rcgeezer View Post
Raced my V-spec this weekend and was having problems getting any top end speed out of it. It's always run fine, and has about 2 gallons thru it. Here's the set up: ST-RR with 13 tooth bell/50 tooth main gear; answer-RC aluminum shoes with 2 black & 1 gold spring (recommended by Jaz); Losi RE-11 pipe. It was running about 240-250 on a very hot 100 degree day, and the tune seemed fine. Had plenty of low end punch, no hesitation what-so-ever, just lacked straightaway speed. Any suggestions??
Try going up on the clutch bell, 13/50 seems a little low. how is your run time, maybe you could fatten it up a little on top.
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:54 AM   #3
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Sorry, actually it was 13/48. Run time was about 9 minutes with a scosh left in the tank.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:28 AM   #4
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Sorry, actually it was 13/48. Run time was about 9 minutes with a scosh left in the tank.
try going up a tooth and see what happens. I dont' know what kind of pipe the losi RE 11 is, but I run the OS speed 2060 sc on my spec and that thing is a bullet. if gearing doesn't help then maybe try another pipe.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:29 AM   #5
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strr need a 14 bell
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:31 AM   #6
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How you liking the spring combo Geezer? I also think you are 1 or 2 teeth short on your bell...Try 14 or 15..it will give you more top, also open up the V-spec and check it..They have been known to need some attention after break in
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:49 AM   #7
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I've also had issues with my Vspec the last two weekends. I'm wondering if someone can share some insight. Here are my symptoms

The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.

If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.

When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.

I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).

Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:52 AM   #8
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I liked the springs JAZ240, had good punch and took very little run-up to clear most jumps. I'm fairly sure that the clutch was not contributing to my problems. What kind of internal problems would result in the absence of top speed but good low-mid speed? Perhaps the RE-11 was a problem, but many have posted that it's a 2050 clone and great for top end. I was using a JP-3 before on smaller tracks and it was very fast.
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgeezer View Post
I liked the springs JAZ240, had good punch and took very little run-up to clear most jumps. I'm fairly sure that the clutch was not contributing to my problems. What kind of internal problems would result in the absence of top speed but good low-mid speed? Perhaps the RE-11 was a problem, but many have posted that it's a 2050 clone and great for top end. I was using a JP-3 before on smaller tracks and it was very fast.

Top speed means more heat, more heat means more expansion..witch make little tiny air leaks into big giant air leaks..Just saying. it dont mean that's what's happening to you..Personally I think its your gear ratio...but you may want to check the rod and crank pin for play also, and the front engine bearing..V-specs need a little more TLC than other Mills, especially after break in..Good luck..Keep us posted
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:17 AM   #10
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I've also had issues with my Vspec the last two weekends. I'm wondering if someone can share some insight. Here are my symptoms

The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.

If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.

When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.

I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).

Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...

Possibly leaky carb Boot...they dont do well sitting around, the rubber gets dried out..Try a new boot on the slide, if that dont work, seal up the base of the carb, the backplate, the HSN housing, and the pinch bolts..but not until after you check the engine bearings..its possible that sitting around for so long your bearings have rusted
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:02 PM   #11
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Thanks, Jaz. I'm going to try the soapy water test later today.

One question: is the carb boot supposed to be air tight? I think I found a small hole in it. I'm going to check this when I get home.
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Thanks, Jaz. I'm going to try the soapy water test later today.

One question: is the carb boot supposed to be air tight? I think I found a small hole in it. I'm going to check this when I get home.
Yes you want it sealed. Replace the boot. preferably with a black OS boot.
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:29 PM   #13
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Yes, airtight, no holes! But dont seal it with anything, you need to replace it..be careful when you pop the ball link on and off the throttle, that's usually when peeps puncture the carb boot, and you wont know it till tuning gets difficult..not a bad idea to have a spare or two lying around..If it needs new bearings don"t buy stock, get the TKO ceramics..good luck, keep us posted
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:31 PM   #14
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Thanks guys! I'm going to try all this out and see how it goes.

Sorry for hijacking your thread rcgeezer!
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Old 05-18-2009, 03:36 PM   #15
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No problem buddy, it's all good here in da hood! I've actually learned something...i might just have to check my carb boot as well. Hey JAZ, at the end of my A main saturday the rear diff seemed to be real gritty, almost like the gear mesh was off. i noticed one of the diff case screws was about 1/2 out. Is it possible that the rear diff going out might have created the problems I was having speed-wise as the race went on? I ask only because that V=spec has been money up till now with absolutely no problems at all, and it's just weird that all of a sudden it would start going bad only on the top side. Your thoughts gentlemen...
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