R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-18-2009, 03:45 PM   #16
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

LOL, Most definitely bud! two wheel drive is not the same as 4 wheel drive..your front and center diff were spooling up and the rear diff was probably slipping..looks like you have some wrenching to do..How awesome that you solved the problem yourself! and now you know why you need to disassemble and check/clean the car after every race day...Keep on top of those bearings also, they will seriously rob your speed if they get dirty or rusty
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 03:48 PM   #17
Tech Champion
 
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 6,575
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
LOL, Most definitely bud! two wheel drive is not the same as 4 wheel drive..your front and center diff were spooling up and the rear diff was probably slipping..looks like you have some wrenching to do..How awesome that you solved the problem yourself! and now you know why you need to disassemble and check/clean the car after every race day...Keep on top of those bearings also, they will seriously rob your speed if they get dirty or rusty
__________________
-Koby Kubrin-
Thanks to my Sponsors:
Serpent America | Team Novarossi | Desoto Racing | Race AKA | Ridgeway Bodies
JAMMINKRAZY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 04:45 PM   #18
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,657
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

i thought i had my carb seeled well to. I clean my internals one day. when i put it on i pressed harder then normal (pretty hard) and heard it snap in place. I was pushing it in while i was tightening it, and it snaped down yet again. I was expieriencing what you are talking about. After that it went away.
dreaux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 08:33 AM   #19
Tech Addict
 
rcgeezer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 688
Default

Thanks JAZ! The thing that sucks is that just before racing we had completely taken the rear diff apart and replaced the ring gear because it looked worn. Didn't realize the case was going bad too, so now I'm going to replace the COMPLETE rear diff, case and all and start from scratch. I think I'm also going to put ceramic bearings in the Vspec just for grins, it couldn't hurt. Thanks guys for all the help...you ROCK!!
__________________
**Team Terribles Northern CA Regional Rep.**
Cold Fusion R/C Products Team Driver
Answer-RC USA / Team Sweep Racing USA
Team RcRenew...visit us at rcrenew.com!
Triton RC Alpha Plus Engines
rcgeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 08:43 AM   #20
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 1,041
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Okay! Last night I ordered a new carb boot, a new carb neck o-ring and the TKO bearings. I'll let you guys know if this fixes my problems..... and I'm hoping it does because I don't want to shell out another $300 bucks on a new engine.
ittjv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 08:53 AM   #21
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Okay! Last night I ordered a new carb boot, a new carb neck o-ring and the TKO bearings. I'll let you guys know if this fixes my problems..... and I'm hoping it does because I don't want to shell out another $300 bucks on a new engine.

Did you check the rod and crankpin? Did you look to see if your piston and sleeve were still good?

Let us know what you find, when you take it apart, before you put new stuff in it..also after you replace what you have, you may want to seal things up with some Lucky 7 sealent
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 08:55 AM   #22
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgeezer View Post
Thanks JAZ! The thing that sucks is that just before racing we had completely taken the rear diff apart and replaced the ring gear because it looked worn. Didn't realize the case was going bad too, so now I'm going to replace the COMPLETE rear diff, case and all and start from scratch. I think I'm also going to put ceramic bearings in the Vspec just for grins, it couldn't hurt. Thanks guys for all the help...you ROCK!!
Its awesome that you found the problem, before it ruined your engine, or your drivetrain...

Good luck..Happy to help...keep us posted
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 11:07 PM   #23
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 1,041
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Alright guys... just a quick update:

I think I'm on to something, so here goes. I replaced the carb boot and the carb neck o-ring. I made sure to seat the carb correctly and tighten it down. I then hooked up some fuel tubing to the fuel inlet and used my compressor to pump 10 psi's into the engine. I brushed some soapy water on the engine and tested for air leaks. I noticed the carb boot blows up a bit, but I think this is normal since the slide is not air tight itself (no o-rings). I also noticed some air bubbles coming from the front bearing where the crank goes through the bearing. Again, this seems normal since there is no way the crank and bearing mating surfaces can be air tight. So my conclusion is, no real air leaks.

So I take my buggy to the Rose Bowl to run it up and down and see if it's fixed. No dice. I start it and it can't even idle without stalling. I tried opening the idle gap, leaning and/or richening both needles. Still nothing. I can slowly idle up and get the engine running, but as soon as I let off the throttle, the engine dies. So after about 10 times of trying this, I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel in my pressure line flowing toward the pipe. I didn't have any extra fuel tuning with me, so I just put a loop on my pressure line (which is very short). Bam! The engine idles, it lets me turn the needles all back to stock settings and I can run it up and down the parking lot. So I ended up leaning the needles a bit from the factory settings and the buggy was screaming again. Finally. And, it didn't die on me after this until it ran out of fuel.

So my question is; is it possible for the pressure line to be too short? I never had engine trouble like this until I cut my fuel lines down in size, so it would make sense. It would also make sense that my flameouts would happen when the tank was topped off, but run a little better as the fuel ran down. Anyone care to share any input?

Now I just need to head out to the track and see if the engine responds the same during a practice session.

Thanks guys!
- JV
ittjv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2009, 06:10 AM   #24
Tech Lord
 
Frank L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NorCal
Posts: 12,500
Trader Rating: 148 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Thanks, Jaz. I'm going to try the soapy water test later today.

One question: is the carb boot supposed to be air tight? I think I found a small hole in it. I'm going to check this when I get home.
I had a grp do the cut out thing where it would run for 2 mine and then it was like someone turned the switch off. I tuned and checked and had another racer help me tune and it still cut out. I swapped the Engine for a new grp and it did the same thing next I swappednout the URL line and tank even though they had maybe a quart through them and problem solved. I could not see anything wrong with the tank or line but that sure solved the problem. It doesn't take much these little wngjes are very touchy.
__________________
- X-Ray/ RC America Team Driver - MKS -
- XB8 - XB8T - XB8 E - OS Spec III - B2102 - 4PXR -
~ SSC ~ Godfather ~ Ironman ~ ButterySmooth ~
Frank L is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks John Stranahan Electric On-Road 1776 03-01-2016 12:18 PM
Nitro On-Road Addict sa RC Manila Racers 12522 12-27-2015 05:51 PM
Kyosho v-one rrr doki_doki Nitro On-Road 9839 08-07-2014 03:59 PM
Kyosho VoneR Thread neons Nitro On-Road 12206 06-29-2012 03:19 PM
Best bang for the buck .12? rai13 Nitro On-Road 25 09-03-2006 10:24 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:16 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net