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Old 05-25-2009, 08:26 AM   #196
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is traxxas top fuel bad for the vspec??? I am swiching to byrons but was just curious.

Also is oddonel fuel made by the same company as O.S.??? someone told me that said it works the best with a vspec and is owned by the same company
LOL, Traxxas fuel is the worst fuel made. It has about 18% oil, and a very high % of synthetic oils. Byron is great, but be sure to get the race or pro driver blends as all RTR blends have way to much oil. Fuel is just a personal preference. Just get a fuel that has 20-30% nitro, and 8-12% oil with high castor (byron is 50/50 castor/syn).
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:35 AM   #197
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I have put about a gallon and a half of traxxas fuel through my vspec. How bad did i hurt my engine???
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:46 AM   #198
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i guess it's ok right?
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:49 AM   #199
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It should be fine. RTR fuels have a high synthetic oil %, and they use a lot of syn. oil to compensate for the low to none castor oil-which is better and more expesnive. That is why RTR fuels are cheaper. Also, it would cause your engine to run hot becasue of all the excess oil. Nitor burns cool, oil burns hot.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:52 AM   #200
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thanx. Should there be any tunning issues with the swich?? I would think not. I might run better eh??
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:03 AM   #201
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I beg to differ...Hitec is a lot longer then 2 year's.
I agree... actually I have never even heard of Hitec asking for proof of purchase! Send them in whenever they blow as long as its a current model, they will send a new one..

I have even heard of them sending a new one for an outdated model that was discontinued for 2 years..My last Hitec servo went a full 5 years before it was shot, and that was a cheepy $50 servo..I am thinking 645 model? Not sure the # but it was 3 digit, and those have been gone awhile..I didn't bother sending it in, cause I figured 5 years on a $50 servo was well worth the money!
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:13 AM   #202
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yup. had to totally retune. Wouldn't start even at factory settings. then flame out and such. Took glow plug out, wouldn't glow, so i blew it out and cleaned it. let the engine sit. And now it runs great with no problems. The traxxas fuel definitley had it gummed up. My vspec definitley loves byrons alot more. has a much better sound and more consistant smoke trail.
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:34 AM   #203
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I agree... actually I have never even heard of Hitec asking for proof of purchase! Send them in whenever they blow as long as its a current model, they will send a new one..

I have even heard of them sending a new one for an outdated model that was discontinued for 2 years..My last Hitec servo went a full 5 years before it was shot, and that was a cheepy $50 servo..I am thinking 645 model? Not sure the # but it was 3 digit, and those have been gone awhile..I didn't bother sending it in, cause I figured 5 years on a $50 servo was well worth the money!

Oh i know buddy.....Ive tested their service to the max a long time ago with the exact servo you speak of the 645 and a 5645 digital version....I broke them more then once a piece in my savage noobie days and every time No proof of purchase no nothing and they warrantied them every time....basically its life time.
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:56 PM   #204
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is the O.S 2060 pipe 115 dollars better then the dynamite 086 pipe?? I have the dynamite and it has my engine running great. My friend has the O.S. and i really can't tell the difference. But there might be one on the bottom end but i just can't tell. I am sure some of you can.

I will be getting some new parts soon upgrades, better servos and a new pipe/manifold if need be. Should i bite the bullet and spend the cash?? Is it that much better?
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:03 PM   #205
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is the O.S 2060 pipe 115 dollars better then the dynamite 086 pipe?? I have the dynamite and it has my engine running great. My friend has the O.S. and i really can't tell the difference. But there might be one on the bottom end but i just can't tell. I am sure some of you can.

I will be getting some new parts soon upgrades, better servos and a new pipe/manifold if need be. Should i bite the bullet and spend the cash?? Is it that much better?
get the AE2035 or the Losi re11. they are both great piped on the spec and are fairly cheap.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:56 PM   #206
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just got done running my car, gonna put it up for the rest of the week. Went to get my after run oil, and i can't find it. Is there anything i can use in its place? I have wd40 and air filter oil. will either of theese work?? or just put nothing.
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:06 PM   #207
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nevermind. Put a squirt of wd40 and turned it on my box. Man my ride is running good. last couple of times i have pulled it out it has started right up and kept it's tune perfectly.

I need a new charger, one that will charge my 12v starter battery and my 5 cell nimh reciever pack. Is there a good one that is fast for under 75$$$ I am hoping anyway. I have seperate chargers for each and they take too long.

thanx
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:08 PM   #208
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I generally use WD40, myself...

Just make sure the engine isn't still hot when you spray it in... My 2.5 fired up on me once, because I sprayed it in right after running


I soaked that engine in WD40, and it literally sat in a box for 3 years, and when I took it out, it fired right up, and still holds a tune
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:29 PM   #209
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the toe in on the front of the rear tires is pointed in. Is the rear of the front tire supposed to be pointed in??? Or is the front of the front tire supposed to be pointed in? Or should the be straight??? What about camber angle. Is it better for the tire to be leaning in or out??? or straight?? I know this is all personal preferance, but lets just say what most people do. I lost my setup sheet for my mugen Right now i have the front tires pretty much straight really. Drives good but hard to control somethimes.

I have ride height, droop, and wheelbase down pretty good. I know how to adjust my squat and kick up. just not really sure when to use it. I have more rear brake bias, seems to work pretty good too.

any comments would be cool.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:15 PM   #210
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I run 3 degree rear toe in and 1 degree front toe out and about 1 degree negative camber in rear and about 2 degrees negative camber in front. This works for me but others may be different of course.
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