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Old 05-11-2009, 08:09 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ephidelt490 View Post
No, it will idle for days...

Did you put the piston in backwards and break the skirt off?
so if i had bad compression it would have a hard time idleing. Ok. So my bottom must be to rich and my top to lean. Remember i added 30% nitro. I can run it for a bit. But when the loaded carb runs out it stalls at the higher speeds. I will richen a quater turn, set the carb at .5, and lean the bottom out accordingly.


I think that should do it. I still haven't ventured but maybe a couple hours of what it was. So i should be ok. All i need is for the rain to go away. I will get it.


I don't know how you could put a piston in backwards. It only goes in one way i thought. The bronze bushing is tapered on one end correct??? Besides all that happened before i went to the track. I have not taken it apart since.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:46 PM   #17
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never mind

Last edited by akiyama77; 05-12-2009 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:40 PM   #18
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I might be out of line on this, but I got 2 V Specs, and tried Nova's Werks, & Go's, I'll say I don't have much patience, and if you don't have patience, and want the motor tuned properly, go to electric. My first mistake is tuning too quickly, I found out you have to let the motor warm up 2 minutes, my next mistake was tweeking the top too fat when I should be tunign the bottom. I've learned that you have to get the motor to idle first, this will generally make sure the bottom is set fairly close, then work on the top. Our v specs hold the tune great, and once a month we run the back up just to run it and it doesn't need much tuning. When I get completely lost, I go bac to the factory settings, but 1-2 hours lean, and work from there. Just my 2 cents
Wrong. Get the top right first, then the bottom, then the idle last.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:54 PM   #19
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are the panty hose clean??
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:02 PM   #20
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I tried to break the skirt off and put the piston in backwards one time, but the wife was quick to tell me that it will only go one way!
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:14 AM   #21
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I tried to break the skirt off and put the piston in backwards one time, but the wife was quick to tell me that it will only go one way!
Always oil it, you don't want to fire up dry!
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:26 AM   #22
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PMSL you guys
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:02 AM   #23
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Too right!
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:18 AM   #24
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Wrong. Get the top right first, then the bottom, then the idle last.
I agree, but a lot of people have a hard time seeing when the top clears, if the bottom is too fat. IMO, it takes at least a 100' straight to see when to top clears if the bottom is really fat, as at the 80' mark is when you are seeing the true top end tune, not a loaded up engine.

What I am saying is, make sure you have a LONG run to check the top end mixture, as if its a short straight the engine could be lying to you, even though the trigger is mashed.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:58 PM   #25
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If I ever catch one of those engines lying to me,I will punish that as- and make it sleep. Very true... an engine can lie to you by loading up and not being run long enough to clear out.
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
so any of you all mind sharing your needle settings???....
Hello.

I would also like to know someones V-spec (code no. 13895, new carb 21JS) needle settings. Just for compare.

Thanks
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:35 AM   #27
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I have OS speed and I had a ton of trouble in the beginning runing, but realized it was messing around with LSN too much.

Once I just starting tuning with only HSN it was easy. Just left my LSN at factory setting and used the HSN, HSN seem to affect the bottom end just a bit. and visa versa, so trying to tune both at the same time drove me crazy.

My speed needle settings are LSH= factory(top of the needle flush)
HSN is anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 turn in from factory (2 turns in from flush)

This setting keeps the engine anywhere from 200-230 when checking with a temp gun, so probly tad bit higher when actually running.
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:23 AM   #28
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Hello.

I would also like to know someones V-spec (code no. 13895, new carb 21JS) needle settings. Just for compare.

Thanks
anybody else
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:18 AM   #29
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I recently purchased an os speed and the carb factory settings were LSN 5 turns out and HSN 4 1/4 turns out.
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:20 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by devilchrist View Post
I have OS speed and I had a ton of trouble in the beginning runing, but realized it was messing around with LSN too much.

Once I just starting tuning with only HSN it was easy. Just left my LSN at factory setting and used the HSN, HSN seem to affect the bottom end just a bit. and visa versa, so trying to tune both at the same time drove me crazy.

My speed needle settings are LSH= factory(top of the needle flush)
HSN is anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 turn in from factory (2 turns in from flush)

This setting keeps the engine anywhere from 200-230 when checking with a temp gun, so probly tad bit higher when actually running.

Pretty close to where mine are.

HSN, 2.5 turns in from flush
LSN, 1/8 turn in from flush
Spraybar at 2 o'clock in from flush with 8mm (red) insert

Runs 210-220
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