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Old 05-11-2009, 01:54 PM   #1
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Default Tuning help "I did what Paris said"

Ok so here is the deal I run a V-spec in my Losi 8ight 2.0 and a Sirio EVOIII in my 8B (Have new vpec waiting for it)

Anyways, I just finished reading the article by Ron Paris.(good read) For the vspec I set the idle gap to .5mm then went ahead and tuned my high speed needle, next was the low speed needle. I thought I had this all figured out motor was running good had a nice trail of smoke etcc and the temps were 220. After reading about the Low speed needle I got curious. I went home and got the vspec to temp drove it around and pulled it in. Got my typical idle then after a few seconds idel dropped. Hmmm according to the guide that should not happen, continued to lean the low speed needle till it stayed ideling high and too high. Then adjusted the idle down. Checked the high speed needle againg and thought I was good to go. Took it out to thunder ally this weekend and motor gets up to about 280 and a few people tell me wow your low speed needle is lean? WTF ok so they help me out and get it running really good. I and the others have found that the vspec simply runs good around 250 260 anyways car was running 250 running really good but I noticed it would idle high then drop back down. I did the fuel tubing pinch test and it revved up and then died within a few seconds....(which form what I understand means the LSN is close to where it should be)now Im all ass backwards on this again. Any help?
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:09 PM   #2
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engine tuning is a learned art and to get really good takes mucho time and experience. You dont learn tuning from one article, but the biggest problem is the narrow window of the perfect tune. They are different with every engine! Not just every different engine, but every engine in general. My vspec will not be set at the same tune as yours, etc, etc.

The best way I could tell you to understand is 1/24 of a turn on any needle in either direction will make a difference. You are on the right track. I think you just turned too much, and never tune until your engine, and chassis are warmed up. You want at least 1-4 tank of warm up before you start making any changes. also, never tune for temps, tune for smoke, sound and performance..Keep at it, it's come with time, just keep checking your temps, and try not to get to close to 300

PS after 7 years, my tuning still sucks
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:19 PM   #3
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after a few seconds the idle is supposed to drop a little and stay...not drop again and stall.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:27 PM   #4
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Yeah, I know it takes time to get a feel and a ear for this thing. I know there are some standards as well. I know all about the tuning in increments of an hour and so forth. I think I had a better tune before I jacked with the LSN I will just keep on keeping on
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:44 PM   #5
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Lean the bottom like you did, and richen the top a half/hour to bring the temps back down a tad.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:07 PM   #6
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Lean the bottom like you did, and richen the top a half/hour to bring the temps back down a tad.
I did richen the top a like 2hrs then it was a turd on top

The stock setting for the LSN on a vspec is .5mm out from flush. I think I had it turned in at least 2 turns...till it stopped dropping in idle then I adjusted the idle back down, seemed to run good in my backyard it wasn't till I got on a big track that it just got hot.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:42 PM   #7
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I did richen the top a like 2hrs then it was a turd on top

The stock setting for the LSN on a vspec is .5mm out from flush. I think I had it turned in at least 2 turns...till it stopped dropping in idle then I adjusted the idle back down, seemed to run good in my backyard it wasn't till I got on a big track that it just got hot.
Dont you hate that!! I get my engine tuned perfectly at my house and then I get to the track and the tune is off like 2 hours on both needles!! WTF!!!
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:54 PM   #8
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Dont you hate that!! I get my engine tuned perfectly at my house and then I get to the track and the tune is off like 2 hours on both needles!! WTF!!!
From all the reading I was pretty sure once you get the LSN set you usually don't need to adjust it that much,as long as you don't change your elevations etc... I know the HSN can always be a little tweaked. Shit if I know guess only time will help me get better. I mean at least Im not retarded and run it way lean or way rich. Im usually a little off then adjust accordingly. I mean there will always be people who tune better than me, I just want the motor to run good and I want to run it all day
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:15 PM   #9
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Keeping it running are the key words..you cant win with a stalled engine..make sure she's sealed up good, good plug, clean filter and a descent tune should always finish a race, and you cant win if you dont finish..good luck
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:01 PM   #10
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V specs don't tune like the italian engines do. Just went thru the same thing. Read the same article you did and applied it to friends nova and a go tech. It worked very well. Decided to tune my speed motor same way. Doesn't work. Had to keep it richer on the bottom and lean the top. It flies when tuned like that and becomes flat if tuned by Ron's method.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:12 PM   #11
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V specs don't tune like the italian engines do. Just went thru the same thing. Read the same article you did and applied it to friends nova and a go tech. It worked very well. Decided to tune my speed motor same way. Doesn't work. Had to keep it richer on the bottom and lean the top. It flies when tuned like that and becomes flat if tuned by Ron's method.
lol. Noticed my sirio ran killer but not the vspec. Thanks for the input
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:36 PM   #12
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I did richen the top a like 2hrs then it was a turd on top
2hrs is quite a bit different than a 1/2hr like I mentioned.

Honestly, tune it like Ron mentioned and you will get snappy power and killer runtime. Fast open track, with a lot of WOT, I just got 9:25 on a tank today with my Ninja(same as OS). Ran a steady 235*
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:22 PM   #13
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The Paris method also now called the Bess method & in between them I believe the Jeol method It works really well but what gets lost on the reader is there is a point where the motor & carb was designed to have the idle gap set to support the varvous aspecs of a certian motor.No mattar how well you get the bottom set with the afore mentiond method & I have tried just to see how far you can go & you can get the idle gap almost comletely closed & still have the eng idle good,you still have to deal with the transition off the idle circuit.Balance is the important factor.Your carb/motor combo as a complete unit has a designed in flow rate.Think of it like a stair case,if you have the slide too far shut but the motor is still in a good enough A/F ratio to burn acceptably with the lower volume of air but when you open the slide abruptly its like going from normal height & depth steps to a 3 foot tall riser on the next step you take & that would be the out of balance I was talking about.The motor carb unit was designed to have those steps a uniform height & depth all the way up from bottom to top.You just have to know when to stop leaning & the only way to learn that on a per eng basis is the way you learned it everyjuango home.It was easier way back when the fuels had a different oil package,you simply would have severe issues limiting how far you could stray from the intended idea(paramiters)all motors made less power using more fuel.The new age of motors put out more power using less fuel & that means less total lubricant.The oils used today are better but the total volume of fuel itself is also part of the lube/cooling of the motor & you can get way out of whack these days & still have the motors run good enough to not put out 100% of potential power but still race with because of the oils they didnt have(to the public) when Ron wrote down that BASIC tuning guide.I simply think it wasnt comprehensive because he did what we all do & assume people had some of the experience he had that made his brain work the way it did.I tell my kid dont lean back in the chair & get why? I assumed she would know because if you fall back & smash your head your brain may get smashed from the internal hemoraging.Why wouldnt she know that it seem obvious enough not to be stated.Not the same thing but you get the idea.Balance is just about the most important concept when tuning as far as I'm concerned & best way IMO to stay in check is to put your slide gap where the people that designed the motor say it should be & dont adjust more than 1/2 turn at the most, ever unless you have made enough mistakes to have gained as much knowlege as the designers.Gotta go my pints been empty for too long.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:19 PM   #14
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lol. Noticed my sirio ran killer but not the vspec. Thanks for the input
vspecs tune from the low end

once you get the novarossi engines bottom set , it usually stays pretty dam close and you can just adjust the top , vspecs are not that way
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:23 PM   #15
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The Paris method also now called the Bess method & in between them I believe the Jeol method It works really well but what gets lost on the reader is there is a point where the motor & carb was designed to have the idle gap set to support the varvous aspecs of a certian motor.No mattar how well you get the bottom set with the afore mentiond method & I have tried just to see how far you can go & you can get the idle gap almost comletely closed & still have the eng idle good,you still have to deal with the transition off the idle circuit.Balance is the important factor.Your carb/motor combo as a complete unit has a designed in flow rate.Think of it like a stair case,if you have the slide too far shut but the motor is still in a good enough A/F ratio to burn acceptably with the lower volume of air but when you open the slide abruptly its like going from normal height & depth steps to a 3 foot tall riser on the next step you take & that would be the out of balance I was talking about.The motor carb unit was designed to have those steps a uniform height & depth all the way up from bottom to top.You just have to know when to stop leaning & the only way to learn that on a per eng basis is the way you learned it everyjuango home.It was easier way back when the fuels had a different oil package,you simply would have severe issues limiting how far you could stray from the intended idea(paramiters)all motors made less power using more fuel.The new age of motors put out more power using less fuel & that means less total lubricant.The oils used today are better but the total volume of fuel itself is also part of the lube/cooling of the motor & you can get way out of whack these days & still have the motors run good enough to not put out 100% of potential power but still race with because of the oils they didnt have(to the public) when Ron wrote down that BASIC tuning guide.I simply think it wasnt comprehensive because he did what we all do & assume people had some of the experience he had that made his brain work the way it did.I tell my kid dont lean back in the chair & get why? I assumed she would know because if you fall back & smash your head your brain may get smashed from the internal hemoraging.Why wouldnt she know that it seem obvious enough not to be stated.Not the same thing but you get the idea.Balance is just about the most important concept when tuning as far as I'm concerned & best way IMO to stay in check is to put your slide gap where the people that designed the motor say it should be & dont adjust more than 1/2 turn at the most, ever unless you have made enough mistakes to have gained as much knowlege as the designers.Gotta go my pints been empty for too long.
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