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Old 05-05-2009, 09:20 AM   #16
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I tear my engines down pretty often to inspect them. About every 1-2 gallons. Check the lower rod bushing for play, use a good set of calipers and measure the crank pin for roundness. Inspect the bearings for any signs of wear or corrosion. Inspect the piston and head button for pittion or heavy carbon build up.

I also use after run oil if I am going to be storing the engine for more than a week or so. IMO it's not nessicary to use ARO after every run.

Replace bearings and rod when they start to wear. A good point to do this anyway is aroung the 3 gallon mark. I use TKO ceramic bearings in all of my engines. I would also reccomend a speed or Ninja JX(same) rod. They are stronger than the v-spec rods and have an oiling hole in them so you will get extra lubrication to the crank pin/rod bushing.

Other than that, treat it well. Keep it tuned properly not too cold or too hot. A good race tune should run between 200-235*F. Though don't tune by temp, Tune by preformance, sound and smoke, just use temp to insure you are in the correct general area. Also run good fuel. Fuel has a lot to do with engine life.

Thanks for advice! Although some/most of this is Greek to me, as I am mostly an electric guy. I am giving the nitro thing a 2nd chance, as I don't like to go to the track or a race and have to ask people a lot of questions. I like to be able to set up my table, and do my thing. Besides, I dont want to be the guy that has a million questions. People get tired of that stuff, so I'd rather ask them on the internet, and figure it out on my own.

While I am learning to tune the engine, (which I am terrible at, can never figure it out) should I invest in the Venom onboard, temp fail-safe? Just so I don't damage anything?
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:25 AM   #17
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Remember, if you have to much motor, it will do more harm then good.. Run time all depends on tunning of the motor, my friend has a bf and is faster with it, then his Nova P5 cause he is smoother with the bf.. And he gets 8 plus minutes of run time easily.. he uses a JP3 pipe..
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:33 AM   #18
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Oh yeah, I will be running a JP4 pipe with whatever engine I get, cuz I have one in my closet. That should be a decent, all-around pipe eh?
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:53 AM   #19
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Oh yeah, I will be running a JP4 pipe with whatever engine I get, cuz I have one in my closet. That should be a decent, all-around pipe eh?
Never used it before, but have heard it is a good pipe for the v-spec. It's supposed to smooth out the powerband and give very good runtime from what I have heard/seen. I myself run either a jp-3, 053 or EB mods 2041 on mine. I have also been wanting to try the losi re11(OS 2050) which is supposed to be the best pipe for the v-spec. Porbably will be in my next order. It's only $65 versus the 100+ for the OS brand pipe.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:57 AM   #20
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dont know about the regular v spec but the speed the pipe just kills the engine jp3 works great on either
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:00 AM   #21
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dont know about the regular v spec but the speed the pipe just kills the engine jp3 works great on either
Speed has a smoother powerband to start with. V-spec has a snappier powerband and could benefit more from a smoother pipe. It is probably not the best choice, but will be decent.
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:07 PM   #22
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So I can probably get a Dynamite 053 from a buddy of mine.

So if I get the Vspec, should I use the JP4 or get the Dynamite 053?
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:12 PM   #23
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TTR 2035, O.S. 2050 or 2060 seems to be a good pipe for vspec, u see that combo a lot at the track anyways. Jammin pipes are fuelhogs from what I have learned.
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:23 PM   #24
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So I can probably get a Dynamite 053 from a buddy of mine.

So if I get the Vspec, should I use the JP4 or get the Dynamite 053?
053 is awesome on the v-spec.

Best pipes for the v-spec are
OS 2050/losi re11, OS 2060, 2041(eb mods or reckward), 053, JP-3, TTR/AE 2035, etc..

Those are some of the best from my experience with them. I myself have used the JP-3, EB 2041 and 053. The 2041 and JP-3 were more powerful, but the 053 was very smooth. I prefer the 053 in buggy and the other 2 in truggy. The OS pipes are probably the best for it, but they are both $130+.
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:51 PM   #25
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RE-11..7 or 8 MM restrictor..You'll get 10+ minutes runtime with the right tune and a smooth trigger. pipe is $65 before any discounts..worth every penny
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:52 PM   #26
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With the Dynamite 053, should I get the hard anodized or the polished? Does the polished resist rust at all? It's just for looks eh?
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:03 PM   #27
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With the Dynamite 053, should I get the hard anodized or the polished? Does the polished resist rust at all? It's just for looks eh?
Definately the hard coated pipe. Polished pipes look like sh!^ after the fisrt run. Like Jaz said though, if you are buying a pipe definately consider the re11.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:33 PM   #28
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Definately the hard coated pipe. Polished pipes look like sh!^ after the fisrt run. Like Jaz said though, if you are buying a pipe definately consider the re11.
Ok, hard anodized it is. I mean, I have the JP4, but everyone I talk to, tells me the Dynamite 053 is a better pipe.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:40 PM   #29
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I personally think you strangle the engine a bit with a bottom end pipe like the 053. The V-spec is a low end mill (meaning torque not price) coupling it to a low end pipe will give you more bottom than you need and not enough mid-top end, so you may suffer some on the straights. The two best pipes are the JP-3 and the 2050 (re-11). The JP-3 is a fuel hog though and you will pay $20 more for it, and get up to 4 minutes less run time! The V-spec has all the bottom you need as is, so get the pipe that was made to go with it which is the Re-11, or if you want to pay double the price find a OS 2050. These are my experiences, and will differ from other peoples, but I already tried them all, so you don't have to if you are racing on a really small track with no long straights the only major differences you will notice with pipes are run times, and smoothness of powerband
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:46 PM   #30
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The RE11 looks a lot like the 2050 but has anyone run it and verified that it runs the same? The 2050 is considered a low end pipe (it's long) and V-specs scream on top with it. I think the low-end/high end thing isn't all that useful, it's more what matches a given engine.
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