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Old 05-01-2009, 06:38 PM   #1
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Default breakin method. Free idle or not???

i see lots of break in methods where it says to free idle your car on your starter box for a couple tanks (even o.s. has something like this in thier manual) and i hear a bunch of other people say it will ruin your engine. Other's say heat cycling is the best way????? I will be doing a break in tomorrow on a os vzb. I started my breakin with 33 percent nitro (never really got it started) and today i got a temp gun and some 20 percent. And will start over tomorrow. Should i drive it on the ground from the get go at a slow speed until it gets up to 200f ?? or let it idle for a couple of tanks but don't let it go over 200?? I have some people tell me to use a heat gun and some say don't. I know i am being rhetorical about this, but i want to make sure i get it right.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:47 PM   #2
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Use a heat gun/hair dryer, and I would let it idle for just a few tanks on the box, then start running it slowly. Keep your temps around 200 degrees.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:01 PM   #3
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I just got done breaking in a nova.21bf I use the heat cycle methed I ran 5 tanks on the box and another 5 on the track with a slow put of the gas up to half throttle with short full throttle brust.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:15 PM   #4
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personally, i wrap the motor with tin foil and make sure no air will get in to cool it. use a heat gun to pre warm, fire it up, then throw it on the ground and do "small" blips for a tank, let it cool. do again, but as i said before, i go by my gutt. some will disagre, but it works for me.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:27 PM   #5
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personally, i wrap the motor with tin foil and make sure no air will get in to cool it. use a heat gun to pre warm, fire it up, then throw it on the ground and do "small" blips for a tank, let it cool. do again, but as i said before, i go by my gutt. some will disagre, but it works for me.
i am hearing this method more and more. Some say break it in at short periods of actual racing conditions, speeds and temps (short burst) let it cool back down with piston at bdc. You are formning the piston and sleeve so getting it into proper shape while it is warm with small amounts of racing conditions does make sense. besides what other vehicles uses a idoling break in method?? I cannot think of any. Sounds like they want you to buy parts in the future if you ask me.

I am just nervous. I have spent well over 2000 for my setup (car, radio, motor etc) and i want to get it right. My friend has over 20 gallons on his vspec, so i know all the stuff about needing a new engine after x amount of tanks is bullshit.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:29 PM   #6
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Use a heat gun/hair dryer, and I would let it idle for just a few tanks on the box, then start running it slowly. Keep your temps around 200 degrees.
That is another thing. I hear some people say that this is VERY bad for your engine and will shorten the life span. I just don't know who to believe. And i don't have another 300 to spend on a engine if i screw this one up. Why the hell don't they come broken in anyway (somewhat at least)??? I mean they do it for every other damn thing except rc cars
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
i am hearing this method more and more. Some say break it in at short periods of actual racing conditions, speeds and temps (short burst) let it cool back down with piston at bdc. You are formning the piston and sleeve so getting it into proper shape while it is warm with small amounts of racing conditions does make sense. besides what other vehicles uses a idoling break in method?? I cannot think of any. Sounds like they want you to buy parts in the future if you ask me.

I am just nervous. I have spent well over 2000 for my setup (car, radio, motor etc) and i want to get it right. My friend has over 20 gallons on his vspec, so i know all the stuff about needing a new engine after x amount of tanks is bullshit.
..No idling! Follow Johnny Cool guys method!!! Best performance, and longevity of any break in method
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:39 PM   #8
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I posted my method in your other thread. It involves idling on the box. I have broken in all of my engines this way. My v-spec has 8 gallons on it now, running as strong as ever.

Not sure who told you preheating would hurt the engine, but they are sadly mistaken. Not preheating it can be one of the worst things for an engine. Think about it. The way these little engines work is with sleeve/piston pinch/compression. These engines have a lot of metal pinch when new. You need the heat to help remove some of that pinch when you start it. Starting a new engine cold WILL put stress on every part of the engine. Plain and simple, it shouldn't be done.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:40 PM   #9
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yea i wont let it idle on the box for a few tanks , cause your not loose the piston and your not warming your clutch up ethier. for the first tank i just go 1/4 throttle then on my second tank and after that i put the piston to the bottom center and on the third tank go half throttle then after them tanks i go full throttle and of course i lean the top end out a little.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:51 PM   #10
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Let me clear some things up for you because you are new..idling a few tanks will not hurt your engine, but it wont really do anything to help it either, not unless you can get it to idle at 200 degrees..People who know how to tune will get 10+ gallons on most engines, no matter which method the use for break in..Newbies will probably get 5 or less gallons until you learn what you are doing. Not offending you, we have all been through it! Break in your engine the way you are comfortable with, then get help with tuning..Keep your air filter clean, check your engine internals every 2 gallons, and dont pull out the glow plug and let all the dirt fall into your engine.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:56 PM   #11
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Let me clear some things up for you because you are new..idling a few tanks will not hurt your engine, but it wont really do anything to help it either, not unless you can get it to idle at 200 degrees..People who know how to tune will get 10+ gallons on most engines, no matter which method the use for break in..Newbies will probably get 5 or less gallons until you learn what you are doing. Not offending you, we have all been through it! Break in your engine the way you are comfortable with, then get help with tuning..Keep your air filter clean, check your engine internals every 2 gallons, and dont pull out the glow plug and let all the dirt fall into your engine.
Completely agree with you. I use tin foil + a heat gun to keep it at 200* while idling. That allows the p/s to wear in at the correct temp while still at a low RPM.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:02 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
Let me clear some things up for you because you are new..idling a few tanks will not hurt your engine, but it wont really do anything to help it either, not unless you can get it to idle at 200 degrees..People who know how to tune will get 10+ gallons on most engines, no matter which method the use for break in..Newbies will probably get 5 or less gallons until you learn what you are doing. Not offending you, we have all been through it! Break in your engine the way you are comfortable with, then get help with tuning..Keep your air filter clean, check your engine internals every 2 gallons, and dont pull out the glow plug and let all the dirt fall into your engine.
i have my way, but i know plenty of people that use what jazzy said and have no problems. it's tough to deside what to do, i'll bet you do fine.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:07 PM   #13
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I am by no means an Expert, But here is what I do for all of my engines and I "Feel" that it is the method for me.

On an average day (temp and humidity) heat engine at the base of the head to about 170 ish degrees then as fast as I can start the engine with base needle settings

Now once started only slightly burp the throttle (1/8th throttle) and start to lean the motor out to keep the temps at just over 200 degrees. Usually about 1/2 turn on the high needle and a touch on the LSN. This is done with the wheels on the ground with the brake set in a slight drag.

this usually take about 2-3 min. now plop the car on the ground and burp the throttle for another 3 min max. keep on checking the temps and adjust the tune to keep it at 200 ish. Shut off the motor and set it to BDC.

Let it cool naturally until it's down to ambient temp. then Heat it again then start and run with out the drag break. and just burp around for 5 min or so at 200 degrees then shut down and set to BDC

Do this for 2 more sets of running and cooling. after the last cooling. take out the glow plug and spray some motor cleaner or WD40 into the engine and plug to clan out any debris. If you are as detail oriented as I then dis assemble the motor and clean and check for wear on the Con Rod. then re assemble and put back into the Car.

Now is the time to start tuning for proper operating temps. Again I heat the engine (when i can) before I start the motor while it;s new. Slowly run the car up to about 1/2 throttle to tune the HSN. Once you get it into the realm go to the LSN. right after a 1/2 throttle pass pinch the fuel line as close to the carb as possible and if the motor RPM dies instantly richen the LSN about 1/8 of a turn and try again. If the RPM rises more than a couple hundred RPM then lean the LSN 1/8 of a turn.

What you are looking for is a slight pause where nothing happens then a slight raise in RPM then it should die. This will get you in 90% of race tune.


The other 10% is just from running on the track and starting at the start of the Straight stop the truck and count to 15. I know it's a long time. if your motor dies you need to increase your idle on the motor (not the radio)

after 15 seconds go full throttle and accelerate down the straight. now if there is sputtering and bogging untill it gets going your LSN is too rich lean it about 1/12 of a turn If not richen it until the preformance dropps then go lean 2x 1/12 of a turn.


It;s just what I do

if there is anything glaringly wrong with my method please let me know.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:23 PM   #14
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thats sounds good but why do u use the drake brake for the break in
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:13 PM   #15
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Completely agree with you. I use tin foil + a heat gun to keep it at 200* while idling. That allows the p/s to wear in at the correct temp while still at a low RPM.

+1, what you do is in essence the same as running it with load...same principle just easier your way....

Remember dreaux, you can never harm a well heated engine..Just dont heat it to much! NEVER PASS 250!!

also remember that its supposed to be fun..If you get all caught up in the cost..it won't be fun anymore, and you will prematurely destroy an engine if you don't learn what to do..that's why you will never see an experienced Nitro guy recommend a $300-$500 engine for a Newbie..It's power you cant control, and precision you will not need, or care for properly..Unless you take the time to learn it all first...trust us, we have all been there and done that
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