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Old 04-30-2009, 06:36 PM   #1
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Default help with breakin on os vzb

trying to break in a new os vzb engine. I am going by the instruction manual and it says start with factory settings (3 turns out, .5 mil on the throtle stop screw) then says if it has trouble starting turn it in half a turn and open the throtle stop to 1 mil. the metering needle (low speed) is also factory set. It says adjust that for fine tuning after break in. well would not start at three turns out, then would start at 2.5 but i cannot keep it running (i can for a little bit by reving it lightly). Where do i go from here??? This is my first break in and i am scared to mess with the needles to much. I want to lean it out a bit but i know i have to run it rich, besides i have tried it at 2 turns and it wont start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. i am guessing richin the low end mix but want to make sure.

glow plug good
ignitor good
33% nitro
starter box good.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:44 PM   #2
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bump
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:51 PM   #3
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bump again please.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:55 PM   #4
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anybody please
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:01 PM   #5
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first off...your engine is not shimmed for 33% Nitro content you should drop down to maximum 30%. Open the idle stop screw to 1-1.5 MM the engine will not run without air. Your settings are so rich it is all fuel and no air. You need to open the idle, and use the throttle to open it further if needed. Also heat it first. That will help it stay running, and make it easier to start
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:07 PM   #6
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i have a shim for the engine. It came with one. I have a whole gallon of 33% Are you saying there is no way i can use it???
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:13 PM   #7
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Add the shim..then proceed with break in.open the idle more
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:13 PM   #8
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put the shim in, i always do for brake in, plus with the shim it should not pre-detonate with th 33%. as for keeping it running you can do it the way jazzy said with the idel screw or you can just keep it running by working the throttel with your finger on the radio. both ways work, but most important, you must keep the temp above 180 degrees but not higher than 220. you can wrap the head with tinfoil.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:23 PM   #9
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once i get the idoling straight i plan on running it on the ground at low speed for (this is where theories differ) either 3 to 5 minutes or when it gets to 200 degrees. Do i do short burst while doing this??? will repeat this for about 3 tanks
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:41 PM   #10
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i wish i could tell you my method, but i go by my gutt when i brake in a motor. i would need to be there to tell you more. i've brokin in someware around 50+ motors in my years, and i've never done anything but go with my gutt.

I'll bet Jazzy could give you the preferd method.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:51 PM   #11
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Follow this break in method. It's the best way to date


http://johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/main/tech_break-in.html
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:01 PM   #12
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it says heat cycling at a "slightly rich" setting and that the os engines come set from the factory "very rich" so if the factory setting is 3 turns to two in a half, i know this is going to sound crazy but what would you recomend? have any of you tuned or broken in a os before??? Guess i will go with 2 turns. also, i don't have a temp gun.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:03 PM   #13
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set the low end needle flush and use a blow dryer..
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:05 PM   #14
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low end is already flush. Will use the blow dryer at 2.5 turns. will report back tommorrow and tell you how it goes
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
it says heat cycling at a "slightly rich" setting and that the os engines come set from the factory "very rich" so if the factory setting is 3 turns to two in a half, i know this is going to sound crazy but what would you recomend? have any of you tuned or broken in a os before??? Guess i will go with 2 turns. also, i don't have a temp gun.
You will need a temp gun. Unless you mean Heat Gun, in which case you should have one of those too. Leave it set to factory settings. Lean it in an hour at a time until it starts to stay running. Going 1 full turn leaner than factory for break in is way too lean. If you need to, bump the idle up a bit. If you heat the engine up to 180-200* before even trying to start it, it will stay running much better. You may need to lean the low end in too to get it to run. This is perfectly fine for the engine if you do it in small increments. You should NEVER touch ANY needle more than an hour or two at a time. Small adjustments go a long way. Also make sure your plug is glowing hot, and your ignitor is FULLY charged.

As for break-in, I kinda have my own method. It is sort of a heat cycle, but with longer cycles. To start I idle 2 tanks through all of my engines with them sitting on the box. Let the engine cool down with the piston at bottom dead center between every tank. Keep the temps around 200*, any cooler or hotter and you will damage the engine. If you need to use tin foil or a rag to keep heat in. Once I get 2 tanks of idle through it, I set the car down on the ground with the same settings and slowly do circles/ figure 8's or what ever. I do 2 tanks of that. Then I do the same thing over again, but lean both bottom and top one hour before each tank. By now you will have 6 tanks through it. Now is when I start to open it up more. Doing mid speed passes back and forth. same deal, 2 tanks of that. now you have 8 tanks on it, and it is about time to start race tuning it. When I do this I will tune it to make decent power but still be pretty rich. Once you gat another 10 tanks or so on it, you can completely race tune it. Note throughout the process you want to keep the engine around 200*. During different stages of the process, you will need to use the foil/rag to keep the temp where you want it. This process has worked perfect for me so far. My v-spec has right about 8 gallons on it now, running as strong as day 1, with great compression.
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