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Old 04-29-2009, 04:08 AM   #31
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front- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6250

Rear- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6251

the links i provided are back ordered but it also has the sizes...


To remove with no special tools needed follow this, its detailed from start to finish....
Turn your oven on to 375. youll know why later
Tear the engine down. this means take the cooling head off, Take the carb and back plate out/off.Take the flywheel off if its still on. You should know have a block only with internals inside.Take the sleeve out. you should be able to just put the piston at tdc and it should slide the sleeve up, if it doesnt put a zip tie at the exhaust port then turn the piston up, this will push the sleeve up for sure.just grab the sleeve and pull it out. Then put the piston at tdc and you should be able to slap the part where the back plate goes against your hand and the conrod should slide off. if it doesnt you can pull it will needle nose i just dont like that method. once the sleeve and piston are out the crank will slide right out. you should have a bare block with only two bearings now.

Now where the oven comes in. put the block in the oven for 8 min. after 8 min pull the block. its going to be hot so use a glove or something. tap the back plate area on the counter, the rear bearing should flop out, if it doesnt put the engine back in the oven. do this until the rear bearing falls out after tappin. it may take a couple taps so dont put it back in right away. once the rear bearin is out take something that is a little larger then the front bearing hole, a wooden dowel is best to use. it should slide right out.

clean the block up. get all the oils out etc. put the block in the oven for the same time it took to get the rear bearing to slide out. once the times up put the front bearing in first. make sure you put it in straight. you may have to tap it in place to get it 100% flush.then put the rear bearing on the crank you took out earlier and slide the crank into the front bearing hole. then just push the crank back and fourth with force. you wanna make sure the rear bearing is seated properly. now take the crank back out....

I oil the rear bearing at this time and turn it to make sure there is plenty of oil in the bearing.. put the crank back in oil the little knob the conrod sits on. then assemble the engine.
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:34 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
front- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6250

Rear- http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6251

the links i provided are back ordered but it also has the sizes...


To remove with no special tools needed follow this, its detailed from start to finish....
Turn your oven on to 375. youll know why later
Tear the engine down. this means take the cooling head off, Take the carb and back plate out/off.Take the flywheel off if its still on. You should know have a block only with internals inside.Take the sleeve out. you should be able to just put the piston at tdc and it should slide the sleeve up, if it doesnt put a zip tie at the exhaust port then turn the piston up, this will push the sleeve up for sure.just grab the sleeve and pull it out. Then put the piston at tdc and you should be able to slap the part where the back plate goes against your hand and the conrod should slide off. if it doesnt you can pull it will needle nose i just dont like that method. once the sleeve and piston are out the crank will slide right out. you should have a bare block with only two bearings now.

Now where the oven comes in. put the block in the oven for 8 min. after 8 min pull the block. its going to be hot so use a glove or something. tap the back plate area on the counter, the rear bearing should flop out, if it doesnt put the engine back in the oven. do this until the rear bearing falls out after tappin. it may take a couple taps so dont put it back in right away. once the rear bearin is out take something that is a little larger then the front bearing hole, a wooden dowel is best to use. it should slide right out.

clean the block up. get all the oils out etc. put the block in the oven for the same time it took to get the rear bearing to slide out. once the times up put the front bearing in first. make sure you put it in straight. you may have to tap it in place to get it 100% flush.then put the rear bearing on the crank you took out earlier and slide the crank into the front bearing hole. then just push the crank back and fourth with force. you wanna make sure the rear bearing is seated properly. now take the crank back out....

I oil the rear bearing at this time and turn it to make sure there is plenty of oil in the bearing.. put the crank back in oil the little knob the conrod sits on. then assemble the engine.
Thanks, much appreciated for such detailed explanations. I'm gonna do this on midnight after my wife is sleeping, I think she would dissaprove if I use her oven for unedible stuffs...
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:29 AM   #33
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Thanks, much appreciated for such detailed explanations. I'm gonna do this on midnight after my wife is sleeping, I think she would dissaprove if I use her oven for unedible stuffs...
No problem, when i rebuilt my vspec my mom came in and asked what i was cookin, i said pizza, shes like o ok... comes back little later while im pullin it out...... it didnt look like pizza to her HA HA
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:02 AM   #34
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No problem, when i rebuilt my vspec my mom came in and asked what i was cookin, i said pizza, shes like o ok... comes back little later while im pullin it out...... it didnt look like pizza to her HA HA
a fast pizza...a vspec pizza
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:36 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by howtowakeakar View Post
I have not personally run an O.S., but I get two opinions on their motors:

1) Awesome, last forever, gobs of power.

2) Crap, don't last 2 gallons, not worth their price.
my VZB is over 8Gallons old and still going strong, just got all new bearings and a pinch, and shes running even better, i couldnt be happier with O.S!

great motors
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:37 AM   #36
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btw, instead of oven can I use heat gun to remove front and rear bearing?
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:20 PM   #37
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Yes, but you will melt the bearing shields, bearings will be trash afterward...you can also use a heat plate..
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:24 PM   #38
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agreed...

i loved my os but it didnt last long, 3/4th of a gallon and the rod spilt. i sent it to os and they agreed to replace my rod but not the piston/sleeve/ and bearing that was damaged.
I replaced my rod after break-in because it was a tiny bit loose. I call it preventative maintenance. Replace a $38 rod or junk a $300 engine. Same with the bearings...preventative maintenance. My experience with break-in is that it's awful hard to do it exactly right without over stressing the rod. Then again, this was only the second motor I broke in.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:27 PM   #39
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It would be difficult to get the motor 300 deg. clean the motor case off with some motor cleaner to get all of the oils off so that when you put it in the oven it wont burn the oil off and wont stink up the kitchen... there will be a small amount of odor if any, but it wont stink up the whole room. you can also turn on the overhead exhaust fan that helps to.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:31 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
agreed...

i loved my os but it didnt last long, 3/4th of a gallon and the rod spilt. i sent it to os and they agreed to replace my rod but not the piston/sleeve/ and bearing that was damaged.
Did you use a heat gun to warm it up for break in..
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:34 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by improvement54 View Post
I replaced my rod after break-in because it was a tiny bit loose. I call it preventative maintenance. Replace a $38 rod or junk a $300 engine. Same with the bearings...preventative maintenance. My experience with break-in is that it's awful hard to do it exactly right without over stressing the rod. Then again, this was only the second motor I broke in.
They are all a bit loose. I haven't worked on one that didn't have a wiggle. remember the oils need to get in there to lubricate.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:47 PM   #42
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If you break in any engine properly, as well as make sure its heated to 200 before you start it, you will not have to replace the rod..Also for future reference, preheating your engine to 150-175 degrees everytime you start it, will work wonders on the longevity of the engine
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:54 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
If you break in any engine properly, as well as make sure its heated to 200 before you start it, you will not have to replace the rod..Also for future reference, preheating your engine to 150-175 degrees everytime you start it, will work wonders on the longevity of the engine
Yes,Yes,and Yes
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