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Old 04-27-2009, 10:28 AM   #16
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mamba4life, Butch Man and 2fst2c pretty much summed it up in their posts but you want to start off assembling the clutch as per the included instructions. If you do not have these you can find them on our site here:

http://werksracing.com/faq.do?id=4

As Butch and 2fst mentioned we also recommend that you put a couple of drops of red locktite on the adjusting nut prior to assembly. Then in the instructions you will see that we recommend that you set the spring tension adjusting nut (this is the flat 10mm nut that adjusts the pressure on the spring) be set flush with the end of the flywheel nut (long tubular nut that holds the flywheel on and the spring is placed over). Meaning that when looked at from the side, there are no threads extending past the top of the spring tension adjusting nut. This would be an initial setting from which to tune and will probably result in an earlier engagement than you want however we recommend this starting point because it is less likely to cause damage to your equipment. Meaning if your clutch is slipping (engaging at too high of an rpm) you will burn up your clutch shoes quickly, if it is engaging too early it's simply going to bog your engine quickly telling you that you need to re-adjust the clutch.

Now as far as the shoe materials are concerned there are 3 different ones available, carbon which is a medium compound all around material (good mix of grip versus wear), teflon which is a harder material and will provide more slip to the clutch and less wear. This material provides a more gradual engagement to the clutch which does not bog the engine down. Lastly there is roulon the red clutch shoes. This is the softest clutch material and as the most bite but also the most wear. These provide for an aggressive bite meaning the clutch locks almost immediately when it engages. Commonly these shoes are run with high rpm engagement points so that the clutch bangs i.e. for RC Drag racing applications. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

Ron
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:35 AM   #17
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awsome well i have a new set of teflon im thinking about running them since thay are new the black pads that i have are used, what do you guys think?
wow now i know why my last .28 was bogin so bad!
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:38 PM   #18
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I would probably stick with carbon or run 2 carbon, 2 teflon shoes.
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:45 PM   #19
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oh ! ok! thanks im just thinking that the track gets dusty by the main and
maybe that slip would help?? am i mistaken???
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:49 PM   #20
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On a slippery surface some slip is good so you don't just spin out, but with 4 teflon shoes there would be too much slip.
2 carbon/ 2 teflon sound good for your surface.
I personally would run all 4 carbon no matter what.
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:52 PM   #21
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Oh man you guys Frikin RULE thanks keep the info streamin ! i have ben cuting and printing this stuff throwing it in my pit box!

so brass spring or silver?? with black shoes?
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:59 PM   #22
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The p5 with a jp-1 will pull like a dump truck so I would try the gold spring (softest of the three springs available) and if necessary go the the green (medium) if you have a clutch bog.
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:03 PM   #23
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The p5 with a jp-1 will pull like a dump truck so I would try the gold spring (softest of the three springs available) and if necessary go the the green (medium) if you have a clutch bog.
so run gold its not brass? and all black pads ? or should i mix um up carbon and teflon.. is there a dead give awaye as to what clutch bogg is i think ill know but just incase?? " like takeing off in 2nd or 3rd on a bike"??? a couple feet off blaaaa then go '?
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:07 PM   #24
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Alan's right again. Our recommendation is always to start with the lightest spring possible (gold) and go through it's entire adjustment range (aprox. 4-5 threads showing). If you still need a later engagement then switch to the next harder spring, start with the least amount of tension (no threads showing) and adjust from there. Springs go in the following order:

Gold = Soft
Gray = Medium
Silver = Hard

95% of the time you will be running the Gold for most buggy/truggy application. You might use the Gray's on a super hooked up track or for something like dirt oval. Silver you would use for on-road application i.e. Rally game cars run in Europe or for Drag Race type cars.
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:48 PM   #25
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GROOVY THANKS
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:33 PM   #26
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Clutch bog feels like you cant get your motor tuned right coming out of corners,like your low end is too fat or you'll think man this motor is a dog. Its actually a fairly common thing for people at the track to blame their motor when its actually a clutch problem.More common on the 3 pin type clutches with a broken/worn spring,worn shoes,clutch shoe mushrooming hang-up & dead bearings but it can be felt with our style clutches as well if you think & know what to look for. Unfortunatly its one of those feelings that cant be described & usually must be experienced to understand,but thats OK cuz this hobby is mostly learn by mistake just like car set-up.

On the opposite side you'll know the nut is too tight when your car gets squirly too easy out of corners & you think god this motor is unbelievable it kicks ass. Its safer to go not tight enough & tighten but I find it easier to to go too tight & back it off if your willing to wear stuff out faster. I can give you a easy thing to look for though,if your clutchbell turn from black to blue purple in 2-3 tanks its adjusted too tight & if you have a temp gun that can get in there I normally see 125-150F deg on the clutchbell after a 15min race.More than 150 your bearings need a look or clutch is slipping too much.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:32 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by butch man View Post
Clutch bog feels like you cant get your motor tuned right coming out of corners,like your low end is too fat or you'll think man this motor is a dog. Its actually a fairly common thing for people at the track to blame their motor when its actually a clutch problem.More common on the 3 pin type clutches with a broken/worn spring,worn shoes,clutch shoe mushrooming hang-up & dead bearings but it can be felt with our style clutches as well if you think & know what to look for. Unfortunatly its one of those feelings that cant be described & usually must be experienced to understand,but thats OK cuz this hobby is mostly learn by mistake just like car set-up.

On the opposite side you'll know the nut is too tight when your car gets squirly too easy out of corners & you think god this motor is unbelievable it kicks ass. Its safer to go not tight enough & tighten but I find it easier to to go too tight & back it off if your willing to wear stuff out faster. I can give you a easy thing to look for though,if your clutchbell turn from black to blue purple in 2-3 tanks its adjusted too tight & if you have a temp gun that can get in there I normally see 125-150F deg on the clutchbell after a 15min race.More than 150 your bearings need a look or clutch is slipping too much.

oh i see well i had the hot problem when i ran oval with black shoes ..
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:28 PM   #28
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Alright guys im going to race tonight and see how it goes we got flooded out last night so the tracks probably guna be super sticky tonight
im going with 4 black shoes! gold spring and im just going to see what happenS


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHiDl...layer_embedded

here's a little video of were i race!
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:23 PM   #29
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Ohh SNAP thats some jumps there mamba! Tighten the crap out of your motor mounts. Looks like a lot of fun. How does the first turn,turn out with that starting system?People stay apart mostly when the grid is full or big pile ups?
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butch man View Post
Ohh SNAP thats some jumps there mamba! Tighten the crap out of your motor mounts. Looks like a lot of fun. How does the first turn,turn out with that starting system?People stay apart mostly when the grid is full or big pile ups?

well Expert clears out good but the sportsmen pile up real bad i couldnt even get the f**Kin car to go tonight the frikin clutch wouldn't work at all ! then the motor mounts friked up "stripped out" i freakin I QUIT! im done with dum nitro crap ! im conveting to brushless if any body wants to buy a Novarossi N21B 2000 BF Limited Edition .21 Off Road 3 Port Buggy Engine NIB' let me know it seems like its always somthing never just works ! im totally out of the race for the prize money n0 chance of winning "or even being competitive" ! I started running Electric when i was young i should have never thought i could run nitro IT SUCKS!! to lean to fat to hot to cold i give up! im so pissed off o almost gave away my mbx5 to some kid i was SO MAD! i always endup driveing 30 min to the track then just driveing home with my tail between my legs LOOKING stupid i hate it i hate it i hate it!

p.s im sure it wasnt the clutch's fault
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