Heat Cycle or DVD Instructions ( Engine Break In )
#1
Heat Cycle or DVD Instructions ( Engine Break In )
Ok so i bought a brand new HPI Savage X SS, and for the last 4 days ive been putting it together and in the morning ill be breaking the engine in.
The DVD says to idle a tank, then run a few tanks around then tune it up.
The forums say to bring it to certain temps and let it cool, with the piston being at the bottom stroke.
I am clueless, really. Brand new to the sport and no idea what to do.
Common sense says HPI knows what they are doing, but at the same time i realize there are smarter out there.
Basically does it matter, and in the morning, what should i do?
Thank you.
The DVD says to idle a tank, then run a few tanks around then tune it up.
The forums say to bring it to certain temps and let it cool, with the piston being at the bottom stroke.
I am clueless, really. Brand new to the sport and no idea what to do.
Common sense says HPI knows what they are doing, but at the same time i realize there are smarter out there.
Basically does it matter, and in the morning, what should i do?
Thank you.
#2
Ok so i bought a brand new HPI Savage X SS, and for the last 4 days ive been putting it together and in the morning ill be breaking the engine in.
The DVD says to idle a tank, then run a few tanks around then tune it up.
The forums say to bring it to certain temps and let it cool, with the piston being at the bottom stroke.
I am clueless, really. Brand new to the sport and no idea what to do.
Common sense says HPI knows what they are doing, but at the same time i realize there are smarter out there.
Basically does it matter, and in the morning, what should i do?
Thank you.
The DVD says to idle a tank, then run a few tanks around then tune it up.
The forums say to bring it to certain temps and let it cool, with the piston being at the bottom stroke.
I am clueless, really. Brand new to the sport and no idea what to do.
Common sense says HPI knows what they are doing, but at the same time i realize there are smarter out there.
Basically does it matter, and in the morning, what should i do?
Thank you.
I would ideal 2 tanks let it cool the 3 tank go easy on the throttle and do figure 8 running the car. Then the 4 tank give it a bit more throttle and the temp should be at 200 or less like about 189 the less keep between that.. 5 Tank do the same thing run it easy. the 6 tank give a bit more throttle run the tank empty and let it cool down aways let it cool down and the piston at Dead buttom center you will know this by feeling the flywheel lose. ok 7 tank start to punch it little by little and let go and punch it and let go. 8th tank start the tunning process High speed needle frist then low speed needle thn ideal. If can take it to the hobby shop I am sure they will help you or if you know some one that can look over your shoulder while you do the breakin process.
Hope this helps
#3
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
I used to use the old idle tanks on the starter box and then tune. I went through 2 engines and then I spent 400 on an new engine and I did not want to blow this one up. So I began looking for alternatives and this is the best one I have found. johnnycoolguy.com. I have used this heat cycle method for 3 engines now and no problems well into the 7 gal range and still running strong. It makes sense that using the old idle method puts an excessive amount of stress on the rod and wears it out quicker. Try this method it works.
#4
+1 on Franks note.
I have done this method on two engines and both run awesome with no hassles. The first engine I did this method on was an OS engine and after about 4 gallons I rolled my car and the air filter came off and I sucked a bunch of fine silt into the carb. I cleaned out the engine and the carb, and I figured that the engine would be shot. Turns out I am still running that same engine! Its definately not race worthy, but it still has a ton of kick for bashing around in parking lots and such.
Just make sure that you always see some blue smoke coming out the exhaust when ya hit the throttle hard. If you don't see any smoke, then your running too lean and you will fry the engine.
I have done this method on two engines and both run awesome with no hassles. The first engine I did this method on was an OS engine and after about 4 gallons I rolled my car and the air filter came off and I sucked a bunch of fine silt into the carb. I cleaned out the engine and the carb, and I figured that the engine would be shot. Turns out I am still running that same engine! Its definately not race worthy, but it still has a ton of kick for bashing around in parking lots and such.
Just make sure that you always see some blue smoke coming out the exhaust when ya hit the throttle hard. If you don't see any smoke, then your running too lean and you will fry the engine.