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Old 06-09-2009, 06:34 AM   #91
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Thanks for all the advice .... I managed to get it going with the Ofna box and a full charge on the 12v. Busy doing a heat cycle break in at the moment and looking forward to getting it out on the track.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:31 PM   #92
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finally got mine when i got home after work yesterday. kinda feared the talk about motor starting trouble so i rewired to my 12 volt gell cell heated with gun and backed off glow plug. bound first attempt rebacked to other side of pinch and got it runnin not that bad. could make a rtr buyer made if never had to deal with before. but what i really wanted to say is my ace servos dont fit what!!!!!!!
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:57 AM   #93
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Great to hear fukitol. It was my first attempt with a starter box and it was a little discouraging. With the advice in this thread and from my experience getting this thing started, I would have no trouble doing it all over again. I noticed when I was cleaning my buggy and putting things away, the pins on the starter box were loose and moved out of place. I did not notice while trying to start my buggy. I have everything lined up and tightened down now.
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:43 AM   #94
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made my ace servos fit, i got out a filer and filed it back so my ace servo fits nicely. i am still yet to start mine im having battery charging issues
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:02 AM   #95
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Yes the ACE servos need a little clearance to fit the aluminum case. LOL. Make sure your servos are not touching the chassis. Use a light, or bent wire or something to feel/see under the servos (any brand of servo) to make sure they aren't resting on the chassis. The off-road impacts and vibrations from the engine can cause havoc with servos. Also the rubber grommets that go on the servo case ears are good to use in 1/8 racing.

Make sure you guys are setting your endpoints correctly.

Steering: With tires mounted up and the car on the ground, set your endpoints so the tires will turn all the way left and right---BUT no further. Back off on the EPA on your radio till this is set. You want to have full steering throw but not over-extending the servo.

Throttle: Engines OFF. You want the servo arm to pull the carb slide as straight as possible. Look from the top and from the side/rear. It won't be perfectly straight, but as close as possible is good. Again with the Throttle EPA you want the servo to pull the carb about 95% all the way out. So clean the dust off the air filter boot and remove it. When looking down the neck pull on the radio trigger slowly and watch how far the carb is opening. As soon as the carb is wide open that's all the travel that's needed. This should leave you with 1-2mm of travel left. So at full throttle with the radio you can grab the end of the throttle linkage and pull it out 1-2mm farther. This way the servo is not over-extending.
-----Same way with the brake EPA. Don't let the servo over-extend.
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:27 PM   #96
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Posting late just got internet back up after a week of issues >_>



But ya had a great first day at the track with it,was my first time ever running a 1/8th buggy on a track or really any rc on a track for some years now.Got some decent lap times out of it being my first time and all.Was about 5 seconds behind TQ everytime.


Heres a few videos I made, they arent that great but they show the buggy off a little bit.






I just ordered some clutch shoes for it too from Answer

http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...&products_id=5
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:32 PM   #97
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And heres some shots before I cleaned it up :P








Dont make fun of my cityblocks, they were cheap :P
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:25 AM   #98
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Looks good. I hope the sun makes an appearance this weekend and I can hit the local track.
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:25 PM   #99
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So I ordered a new wheel for the starter box and horizon sent me a wheel for the 8ight box which is diffrent from the rtr box I guess.They sent me the right one afterwards.

for funsies heres a comparison of the wheels to show how much thinner the rtr version is >_<




Kinda lame,I wore down the wheel that came with it cause it was my first time breaking in a nitro and I didnt know about using a heat gun at first.So I wore it way down my first time trying to start it
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:21 PM   #100
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looks like ya had fun.....i love how simple these are to clean. just a few screws and it comes apart for cleaning.......nice.......
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Old 06-13-2009, 02:57 PM   #101
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Could it be that the 2.0 RTR has the same throttle servo curse as the 1.0 RTR???

I made sure the end points were set, servo raised and pulling straight ....

1 Quarter gallon through mine and it died today .... stoked.
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Old 06-13-2009, 04:41 PM   #102
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Well, if it's any consolation, the stock servo is kind of crappy anyway.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:33 AM   #103
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My throttle servo died as well. I had an extra I threw in until I get a replacement from Horizon. The servo horn insert for my steering servo is stripped. Any recomendations on a aluminum replacement?
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:57 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atpat View Post
My throttle servo died as well. I had an extra I threw in until I get a replacement from Horizon. The servo horn insert for my steering servo is stripped. Any recomendations on a aluminum replacement?

That's an extremely common thing to happen. Pick up a losi aluminum servo horn and that won't happen again. They are $6 each.

Also you might want to check and make sure the servo saver isn't too tight as that will cause you to break the steering servo gears once you put the aluminum horn on.

I would put the stock steering servo on the throttle and invest in a nice metal geared high torque servo for your steering if you have the cash.
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:38 AM   #105
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i have a problem with reaching the idle due to the exhaust in the way and the fuel lines. anybody else have this problem? or how to fix it? my idle is nearly stipped \
and what would be a good glow plug for my engine im 3/4 L in my buggy with a blown plug.

Last edited by Christopherp; 06-15-2009 at 06:16 AM.
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