Christopherp

With my 2.0 rtr in the mail, i was wondering what batteries(is lipo an option?if so easy?) would be recomened for the starter and if i could put another motor in the starter box(if thats possible, as never owned one before). and would lipo be a beter reciever pack as not many revicer packs are above the 1600 mark? but have read 1600 wont last very long with my ace servos?
Any help much appreciated thanks.

ShagNastyEk9

iTrader: (36)

i run apogee lipo reciever packs, good and affordable, 2000mah, i get 3 5 minute heats, and a 30 minute main out of em easy using power hungry JR servos. You can put a 4s lipo in the starter box, make sure it is rated at 15c minimum and 2200mah will give you alot of life, more than 1 typical weekend, i have gone a month before.

6th

I would like to know as well, what engine is this based off of? It certainly looks like a GRP based engine. The old 8ight was a Dynamite Mach 427 iirc.

air8

iTrader: (7)

BIG negative on the engines based off GRPs. If you look closely at the larger pictures of the Losi 350 engine it is near identical to the Dynamite Mach 2 .21. Don't look at the heads--pay attention to the carb, engine mount ears, and engine case. The marks and lines are very, very similar. That's all i'm saying.

atpat

I received my buggy yesterday. It looks awesome. I hope to get a chance later today to break it in.

paups

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, gfot my buggy Friday and STILL havent even broken it in. Really struggling with the tight pinch in the motor. I have heated it to 190 with a heat gun, only just turns over, the starter box has nothing for it. Went out and bought a Ofna + 12v Gel and still struggling. Removed the plug and the starter box just doesn't have enough to get it over consistently.

Any other suggestions??? Just want to run this thing

mudboger07

I had the same issue with my sons buggy, it took a bit to get it going, I had to readjust the starter box so it lined up correctly to touch the flywheel, i used a heat gun that i use for applying monokote on my airplanes, its like a turbo blow dryer...lol i got it up to around 200. Even after the first tank of fuel it was still a lttiel hard to start being so tight but after that it starts right up..

Breakin2

iTrader: (38)

I know that the RTR only comes with 2 clutch shoes. Any ideas what 2 shoes and springs I should get to fill in the gap?

atpat

I also had a very hard time getting my buggy started. The motor is very tight and mine kept getting locked. Lots of burnt rubber from the starter box and my flywheel is marked pretty good from unlocking it. Is there a better way to free it up then a screwdriver in the flywheel threads?

Anyway, I have a bout 5 tanks through it and it's still very tight but starts every time now. Make sure it's at BDC before touching the flywheel. Once the flywheel is spinning I wouldn't let up until the engine finally started. If I stopped before the engine started I ran the chance of it locking up again. I also used a blowdryer to bring up the temps. Keep at it, it will start. I was discouraged at first too and wondered if it would ever start.

When you do get it running..............it's awesome and worth the wait. Good luck and enjoy.

Trevor Williams

iTrader: (207)

guys..........MAKE SURE to PREHEAT your engines to 200 DEG. until you have AT LEAST a gall. of fuel through it

air8

iTrader: (7)

1. Pre-heating the engine is excellent to do. 2. Also loosen the glow plug about one turn. After the engine fires you can tighten it. 3. Let the starter box spin up before pushing the car's flywheel against the starer wheel. If the engine stops turning over stop trying to start it. 4. If the piston gets stuckUse a screw driver to turn the engine until it's freed up. 5. Each time you try to start the engine put the engine flywheel in a position that it can turn almost a full revolution before going back to TDC(Top Dead Center.) This would be turning the flywheel counterclockwise, with your fingers, until you start to feel resistance. This way the engine will already have momentem by the time you push the car against the starter box wheel.

AFter you guys get around a gallon of fuel through the engine you won't need to do these pre-start items anymore. The engine will have less mechanical pinch and it will be in the power zone. There will be compression still, but no more piston getting locked at TDC. Then the starter boxes will be just fine. Remember the engines will need heating and cooling for break-in.

After running the engine always put the piston at Bottom Dead Center so the sleeve can cool and contract evenly. If the piston is left at the top of the sleeve during cool down it can alter the life of the engine because of un-even cooling.

atpat

Great advice air8. I could of used that info during my break in.

mudboger07

I use alum with gold springs and comp with green springs, it seems to be a good all around set up so far..

air8

iTrader: (7)

LOL. That's lots of trial and error over the last year and a half. I'm still a newbie also. Ha ha ha. Plus a lot of asking the right people here on RC Tech. There's a lot of good racers on this site. Just gotta find 'em.

On my race roller I like 2 aluminum with green and two carbon with green. Feels very smooth and the car almost never spins out on loose surfaces. On blue groove (higher traction) tracks I step the 2 aluminums up to gold, OR I switch to all four aluminum shoes with green on all four. It's barely noticeable but there is a tad more oomph to clear jumps if needed.

air8

iTrader: (7)

Clutch springs from softest to hardest


Black, Green, Gold, Silver