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Old 04-21-2009, 03:11 PM   #1
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Default Nitro evader troubles

I have a Nitro evader, which is sort of like a dune buggy looking car. I was running it all last year but now I went to run it and the problem is that the motor spins like it is supposed to but the back tires, since it is rear driven, do not turn, if I lift up the car and keep it horizontal the back wheels will turn but some reason on ground they do not. Any advice?
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:57 PM   #2
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i would check your diff and see if a bevel gear is chipped or if u have a ball diff maybe it needs a rebuild. most likely its that
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:58 AM   #3
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Default will try that

Ok where exactly would that be, in the gear box?
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:28 AM   #4
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Default checked into it

Looked at the parts list that came with my car it looks like I have a differential gear. I will take apart the gear box and look into that... if by some chance the differential gear is fine what else would cause the problem?
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:49 PM   #5
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I have to get the right allen key for the job, but at one point I manually adjusted the differential, the axles spinned normally for a few but then the the gear that comes just after the motor gear itself doesn't spin to much, but then I rotated the big gear that comes near the motor by myself for a few and it spun the axles eventually like normal for a few. is that still a differential problem?
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:12 PM   #6
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i would check your rear hub wheel bearings and try to spin them if they fell gritney or locked up them replace them ,where your bearings in the gearbox fine. and check to see if your slipper clutch is to tight.
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:57 PM   #7
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Default checked on it

I pulled apart the gear box. if I am correct the differential gear has ball bearings that sit in the holes right? if so some of them looked worn down. the gears themself looked ok and it didn't bind. what I will do since I ordered a new transmission axle, you know the gear that is on the inside that is connected to the big gear that the motor spins off of, I might replace that, but definitely bought new bearings for the inside of the gear box. the rest of the bearings looked good, but the ones that came out of the inside of the box looked like some of them were tiny.
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:00 PM   #8
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Default two more questions as well

is it possible to over tighten the rear tires? Also would a lack of tread surface on them be a factor too? Thanks for your help thus far.
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:17 PM   #9
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yea it could be if your tires are worn but both wheels would still move .i would check to see if you overtighten the nuts on the whells.just tightenthem intill there snug nomore then that 2wd tends to to that if u overtighten the wheels
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:53 PM   #10
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as I mentioned before I had manually adjusted the diferential because at one point when the wheels were turning one wheel would turn one way the other would turn in the oposite direction. Once I get the parts I will try to rebuild the differential, then figure out how come I can't seem to get the idle right... do I need to retune the engine every year? or once I get it where it should be I should just need to do that once?
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:00 PM   #11
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well i only done nitro for a year but i rarely had to tune my when the temp change ,like when its really hot out i richin a little but i usally runs good the way its set at. some guys might tune theier engines when the weather is hot or cool but if its running fine and their smoke coming out then its all good.do u have a fuel filter cause it does give u more run time but it also feeds more fuel so if its a little lean it wont overheat.i run a rcgt2 im doing 1/8 buggy this year and slash
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:01 PM   #12
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Yes I use an air filter, but I was wondering why I can't seem to get the idle right. and if I put the throttle to normal instead of reverse the engine seems to cut out but if I put the throttle to reverse it works, but I can't let go of the control trigger or it will stall.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:12 PM   #13
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u proberty have a rotary carb on the evader i guessing that if so u would have the throttle to normal on the radio, only use reverse on slide carb its just the way the linkage setup is.i would check your glow plug and see if the coils are bright red and look at the bottom of the plug and make sure it looks shiny wish means its rich and if its just a little wet that means you have it tune right. when u take it out make sure the glow plug is stright when u screw it back in trust me u dont want a leaking cooling head. is your carb open aleast 1mm where the rear wheels arent moving when u start it
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gillandro29 View Post
as I mentioned before I had manually adjusted the diferential because at one point when the wheels were turning one wheel would turn one way the other would turn in the oposite direction. Once I get the parts I will try to rebuild the differential, then figure out how come I can't seem to get the idle right... do I need to retune the engine every year? or once I get it where it should be I should just need to do that once?
You should replace the diff balls and thrust assembly when rebuilding the diff. Also, you should tune your engine every time you run it. If the outside temperature is consisent you should only have to richen it or lean it a couple hours. Lean your lsn if it wont idle.
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:45 PM   #15
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differential balls as in ball bearings? and I had the air filter off to see what position the throttle is opened at when I start the car, it looked open enough to allow some gas to get in but it wouldn't kick over unless I opened the throttle body all the way.
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