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Old 04-23-2009, 07:50 PM   #31
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If i only had a camera right now i would take pics of the BOX of STS parts including sheered crank pins, snapped rods piston side and crank side, Melted Piston's, Rods that literally started to pull the center of the piston apart and 4 blocks with Big HOLES in the side and base of the block from the rod trying to go east and west....they are crap motor's to say the least.....$ for $ you can get WAY better.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:12 PM   #32
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You guys need to utilize the experience of the veteran racers who have made all the mistakes already and are trying to teach others not to make the same mistakes..but some people insist on making them anyway and get what they deserve, and in most cases its just a waste of money. RCTECH is here to help people who are new not to do all the silly things that the rest of us have already done..If you chose to ignore the advice then accept the consequences. "go on cry in your coffee, but don't come Bitchin to me"...Billy Joel
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Great post!!! and ill leave it at that
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Old 04-24-2009, 03:04 AM   #33
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nova bf 2000 at a main $150 + the code can't beat it and get at least 8 or more gallons of easy tuneing and a snappy engine.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:12 PM   #34
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mybad but some people r having good luck with these engines!! But a nova bf.21 in a truggy would not work, right
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:23 PM   #35
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Yes it would, and there are a ton of other inexpensive engines that would also be much better than anything from STS..look into Dynamite, SH, Picco, RB, Go-Tech..I can think of 5-8 engines for $150 or less that would be much better than anything from STS...
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:00 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
Yes it would, and there are a ton of other inexpensive engines that would also be much better than anything from STS..look into Dynamite, SH, Picco, RB, Go-Tech..I can think of 5-8 engines for $150 or less that would be much better than anything from STS...
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #37
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I currently have the D21B & the D28M. I have had mixed results with these engines though. My first 28 threw a piston retaining clip on the second tank of fuel during break-in, my first 21 lost all compression after 2 gallons. This was 2 years ago. my current 21 & 28 are new generation models and ran perfect all last season & still have plenty of compression after 3+ gallons. So I guess the moral to my story is these engines are like a crap shoot. Sometimes you luck out, sometimes you end up with crap. For just running with a couple of friends on a track they are fine, but if you plan on racing on a regular basis, I would probably look at something else, not nessesarily a $400 engine, but something like the go-tech or trinity brands. Just my .02. Oh, P.S. all high-end motors can grenade just as easy as these, I've seen a few novas & RBs grenade way before they should have.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:46 PM   #38
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Got it mounted in my St-RR


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Old 06-23-2009, 01:43 PM   #39
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I don't care what some people say, my 28 lasted a hard 6 gallons of raceing. The power was instant, and the engine was super easy to tune, unlike some of the above mentioned motors. And were do you get some of the mentioned motors above for under 150.00 new???????????? People hear sts sucks and they believe it before they try them. Sts 28, 115.00, I'll race it all day. Hasn't anyone broke anything on a OS, RB, or anyother big dollar motor? Do they suck then to?
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:00 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post
for the coin you'd be better off getting a nova 3port...I have had a sts and while it makes good power it didn't last long..within 1.5 gallons the bearings started to chip and the piston and sleeve cracked.engine was ran in optimal temp range of 200-230max. now that's not to say things haven't changed but for the price you can get a proven engine and not have to second guess it's lifespan..just my 2 cents..No hate or flame
my results were opposite, i had 2 d21b's that lasted about 5 gallons each, then another 2 gallons when i combined the parts. nova 3 port i had for about 2 gallons and sold, then it lasted another gallon before the piston went through the top of the sleeve. even with some more tlc it won't last 10+ gallons without some work. for $115 on ebay they are good club motors or loaners.
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:53 PM   #41
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Okay guys.
Just out of curiosity. I bought a new, dead bottom of the line STS D21E because i read lots and lots of online discussions (some of them extremely HOT).
Bought it 3 months ago from a similarly curious friend that has some spare money when go out shopping. He's too busy and too skeptical, so i decide to bite the bullet for my friends' amusement (i'm the ace clown at the track, LOL)
Open it up for inspection and changing to blank backplate (won't fit in MP7.5 with the roto it came with)
Looks good inside (nothing extreme in design), but as always for STS, 'budget' bearings, and burrs left in some corners, etc, but I decided to use just what it came with for the sake of the 'beater' theme.
Carb got no pinch shim (gasket) in main needle assembly, but rely solely on the pinch of the brass housing. Skeptical, but turns out okay, no leak, amazed, but worried. Left it so
Got lots of shims (0.4 mm) under the head, read the instructions paper (only one sheet), and left it as it is.
Dump some after run during assembly, mount and prep to break-in.

Break in was messy w/ stock setting, but it's still do-able.
Need 3 liters of 16% tornado fuel to properly seat the piston to sleeve (w/ heat cycling and pre-heat B4 start)
After break in, tuning was already 90% optimum (I go exactly by instruction). Open up, remove shim to 0.2 for the nitro pct.

Go to track with exactly same setup for previous engine (sirio #1, another hotly debated mill)
Not so good, change pipe to HN 063, and 46s, 14p. Good bottom end, perfect for our track (bumpy, short, 'curvy)
Played with friends using mostly RB's, hmmm... Love the way RB revs to the moon), and result is quite competitive during infield but not on straight. Resolution, decided to 'kill-tune' it for max rpm (bumps the temp from 115 to ard 140) and man,... The engine sings its tune...
Plays along with rb everywhere (note that the rb's ran cooler than this tho')

I'm still trying to kill the engine with that setup 'till now. Only noticed a change in rev note last sunday, maybe the bearing almost gave up, but still run as it was and temp reading drops to 120)
Good to note as well that I get almost 9 minute (honest w/ no extra trick in capacity) run with this setup.
Most surprising result is the acceleration it produces. Snappy, enables you to use very quick servo, helps alot setting up the car in turns or in jumps)
Only nova P5 and OS v-spec (as i have driven) have this kind of 'smooth-snap' down low.

Nice to have a sleeper engine, can be so proud when better, can resort to 'cheap engine' excuse when run badly (i think this is the main reason anyone buy these engines in the first place)
Very good engine for the not-so-new beginners (not new to nitro rc, but new to a chassis, track, people, or anything else )
Very good 'excuse' engine,

Sorry for the long post, i just feel i need to share my experience.

Oh btw, this is not the first time i ran STS.
Use to race with STS D5 in outlaw class touring
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #42
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Oh one other thing.
I think STS engines love to run hot hot hot
Maybe it was designed to run in hot 'n humid enviro?!?!
Since the pinch when cold is almost crazy, and the fact that most STS engines used in asia?!

I run it with OS hot glow plug (A3) in a blistering hot environment 32C and very high humidity (Bali is a very small island, surrounded by sea, got tall mountain in the middle, i sweat my ass off almost all day) hihihihi..
.So, would it be possible that breaking stuff up in the engine because it's run too cold (in relation to how it was meant to run?)
Just wondering, coz there'd be more mechanical drag when parts aren't fully expanding yet
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Last edited by orangbaligila; 06-23-2009 at 08:16 PM. Reason: need to add some
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:09 PM   #43
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Hi, I also owned one of this mill and I like it too. I managed to ran a gallon on it and last Sun this mill temp suddenly shoot up to ~130C and before is ran ~100-110C range. This weekend I will retune it again After checked the compression is good and pinch is less compare when new and most of the rctech guru told me that's mean this mill is fully broken in

Edit: May I know what is your needler setting now on LSN and HSN? Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:00 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by tkhoo View Post
Hi, I also owned one of this mill and I like it too. I managed to ran a gallon on it and last Sun this mill temp suddenly shoot up to ~130C and before is ran ~100-110C range. This weekend I will retune it again After checked the compression is good and pinch is less compare when new and most of the rctech guru told me that's mean this mill is fully broken in

Edit: May I know what is your needler setting now on LSN and HSN? Thanks.
Afraid to close it fully to get the amt of turn (sts carb sensitive )
And it depends on pipe, tube length, weather and so on.
But my setting hovers ard:
LSN: flush and half turns out give take some vibrations
HSN: 1.5 to 1.75 turns (yes, that little)
So the needles are very sensitive, if you release breath when you tune, you lost the tune oredy, hahaha J/K

Please note that i use:

HN 063 pipe
Stock venturi (measures at 7.7mm)
0.2mm head shims
16%nitro (tornado regular)
Q-world foam filter w/ not so much oil, but in both foams
OS A3 glow plug

And LSN flush I mean not the actual face of the bolt, but underneath it. Which means, bolt face will be protruding already
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangbaligila View Post
Afraid to close it fully to get the amt of turn (sts carb sensitive )
And it depends on pipe, tube length, weather and so on.
But my setting hovers ard:
LSN: flush and half turns out give take some vibrations
HSN: 1.5 to 1.75 turns (yes, that little)
So the needles are very sensitive, if you release breath when you tune, you lost the tune oredy, hahaha J/K

Please note that i use:

HN 063 pipe
Stock venturi (measures at 7.7mm)
0.2mm head shims
16%nitro (tornado regular)
Q-world foam filter w/ not so much oil, but in both foams
OS A3 glow plug

And LSN flush I mean not the actual face of the bolt, but underneath it. Which means, bolt face will be protruding already
Wow...that very lean on top but very rich on bottom. My is top 2 turns out from close and bottom is 4 turns out from close. But with this setting my engne run on hot side. By the way, STS like to run rich or lean top?
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