R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-19-2009, 03:57 PM   #1
Tech Rookie
 
Atomic_Wedgy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default discouraged noob

i purchased a RC8 RTR about a week ago and was hoping to break it in this weekend, but instead i spent 2 days just trying to get it started. I have set all the adjustments just like it said to in the instructions. When i use the pro start it sounds like it wants to start but wont, smoke and a little bit of fuel are coming out of the exhaust (does this mean it is to rich?). I had it running for about 10 seconds once and cant get run that long again. I been adjusting the fuel mixture 1/8 turn each time, but nothing is working. I have had a few electric cars as a kid and this is my first nitro car, so i think it is safe to say that it is operator error and not something mechanical. Any tips or advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. I really would like to get this thing running, (altough it does look pretty sweet sitting on my workbench).
Atomic_Wedgy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:00 PM   #2
Tech Master
 
fast11970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Freeport Texas
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Are there any experienced nitro guys around you? That would be the best, But if not, Check the plug, see if its still good, are you useing a heat gun to warm it up first?
__________________
MBX6
http://www.racemugen.com
fast11970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:01 PM   #3
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 775
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Keep everything at the factory settings, keep trying to start it, and if necessary, use something to keep the glow plug lit. Also, when trying to start it, keep the throttle open a little bit, or open the idle adjustment screw a little.
howtowakeakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:02 PM   #4
Tech Addict
 
jamiekerr14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Uk
Posts: 607
Default

Have A browse on goole mate-Break in ect.. there will be things like Warming the engine before starting, will help.-DONT TOUCH THE NEEDLES YET otherwise you will destroy the engine. When Running a engine in, its meant to be super rich..to slowly get ann the parts moving nicely.. and to flush out any Bits of crud from building. My advice, is look on google and here.. then do it.. I dont recommend stying to start it without researcing before hand Cheers
__________________
Xray XB4
Supported By:
RC Disco
jamiekerr14 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:03 PM   #5
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Check 3 things:

1. Your idle gap is open at least 1mm
2. Try a new glow plug, sometimes they are just bad
3. Get a good strong charge or fresh battery in your Glow igniter.

If those things dont work, make sure your engine is primed enough, but not flooded.

If it still wont start, I would turn in your high speed needle 1/8 of a turn.It may just be too rich, it wont start if its too rich
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:05 PM   #6
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 649
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic_Wedgy View Post
i purchased a RC8 RTR about a week ago and was hoping to break it in this weekend, but instead i spent 2 days just trying to get it started. I have set all the adjustments just like it said to in the instructions. When i use the pro start it sounds like it wants to start but wont, smoke and a little bit of fuel are coming out of the exhaust (does this mean it is to rich?). I had it running for about 10 seconds once and cant get run that long again. I been adjusting the fuel mixture 1/8 turn each time, but nothing is working. I have had a few electric cars as a kid and this is my first nitro car, so i think it is safe to say that it is operator error and not something mechanical. Any tips or advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. I really would like to get this thing running, (altough it does look pretty sweet sitting on my workbench).

Dude, I am sure you are a little pissed at this point. Does it want to actually want to Fire?? If not, glow plug or glow plug ignitor is bad, after some long starting issues, even a new plug could be bad from flooding.

Honestly, get to a Local Hobby Store, they can help. There is just too many factors at this point, if the motor is new, you can be doing more damage to the motor.
SPEEDSKI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:07 PM   #7
Tech Master
 
fast11970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Freeport Texas
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul



I stole this from somewhere, It was shiney....
__________________
MBX6
http://www.racemugen.com
fast11970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:10 PM   #8
Tech Rookie
 
Atomic_Wedgy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default

thanks for the fast replies. I went to the local rc shop and tried there advice (dont use the stock glow plug igniter because it is a peice of crap, and use a cordless drill instead of the prostart because that is a peice of crap also). It seemed to make a difference but it still wont idle for more thqan a second. I also tried to open the idle a little, but the manual has made me nervous to adjust it to much.
Atomic_Wedgy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:15 PM   #9
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 775
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

You want it to idle fast, not fast enough that it will start to creep along, but just below that speed. I ended up breaking in my LRP by holding the throttle open a little until it got some heat in it.
howtowakeakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:20 PM   #10
Tech Fanatic
 
brofroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Cleveland, TN
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

don't be afraid to adjust the idle speed. take the air filter off and verify the opening between the slide and the carb body is 1mm as stated above. go from there. if it's idling too fast screw it out a little, too slow-screw in it in a little. you may have to blip the throttle a little at first to keep it running to get heat in it. remember the engine is VERY tight so if the idle gets too low it will stall from friction until it gets loosened up a little.
brofroe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:24 PM   #11
Tech Rookie
 
Atomic_Wedgy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default

the manual says to open the idle to 7mm. Could that be to much? As soon as i take the starter off it stalls. I havent tried heating the engine up with a heat gun yet though. Hmmm...anyone have one i could barrow?
Atomic_Wedgy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:26 PM   #12
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 775
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

7mm?!
Maybe they mean .7?
At most 2mm, 7mm is practically WOT (wide open throttle) for most engines, my LRP's carb is only 9mm in diameter, so 7 is about 3/4 throttle.
howtowakeakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:29 PM   #13
Tech Rookie
 
Atomic_Wedgy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default

sorry it does say .7mm. I just left it at the factory setting. It looked just like the picture in the manual.
Atomic_Wedgy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:31 PM   #14
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 775
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Try opening it up to 1-1.5 mm, should help keep it idling.
howtowakeakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 04:42 PM   #15
Tech Rookie
 
Atomic_Wedgy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Default

I'll give it a try
Atomic_Wedgy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OC CIRCUIT v.2 Intelligentsia California Racing 10451 06-15-2015 10:29 PM
4-29 Shootout Race at Primetime Hobbies ShaunMac Georgia Racing 71 05-01-2007 02:26 PM
Frustrated jakethedriver Electric On-Road 45 03-08-2007 02:44 PM
ROAR Region 11 thread. C_O_jones Northwest Racers 178 02-19-2007 03:58 PM
Racers: Where do you "look" when driving? Mr.Maim Rookie Zone 31 12-20-2006 03:41 PM
What do you wish you would have known? Daddy2mnb Rookie Zone 13 04-16-2006 06:50 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:05 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net