R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-16-2009, 12:27 PM   #1
Tech Apprentice
 
NielsVV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Belgium
Posts: 55
Default Nitro engine life

Hello,

I'm a fun driver and I don't care about a little more speed. I allways drive a little to rich, so that my engine is not overheating.

I drive every weekend about 10tanks of fuel. I can drive 5minutes on one tank.

So, 10tanks x 150cc/tank= 1,5l every weekend = 6l/month.

I nitro engine has an average life of 25l. So, this means that I have to buy every 4months a new engine!

Is this normal? Because this is very $$$. A new cheap engine is about $150.

Greetings

Niels
NielsVV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2009, 12:36 PM   #2
Tech Fanatic
 
wallot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 870
Default

engine especially if not put through stress of racing can last much longer. yes maybe after 25l you will need to replace bearings, conrod etc but it can serv you much longer without need of buying new engine.
__________________
DEX408 - Speed Passion Silver Arrow v2, LRP Dynamic 8
Dex410 V3 - Tekin RS Pro, 7.5t Redline
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline
Sakura Zero S - LRP Quantum, Saturn 20T
KoPropo Eurus
wallot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2009, 12:38 PM   #3
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Contrary to popular belief a perfectly tuned engine will last longer than a rich engine. It really has nothing to do with rich, or lean. It has to do with the sweet spot. You just want to make sure of 4 things always:

It sounds right
It performs right
It always has a good trail of smoke out of the Pipe
you dont run it, too hot, nor too cold.

here are some tips for greatly increasing your engines lifespan:

Always preheat your engine before you start it.

Make sure you keep dirt out! Clean or replace air filter every Hour or so of running. Dirt will kill any engine quickly.

Turn the piston to the bottom after you run it so it cools correctly.

Make sure you break it in properly.

Run quality fuel that has 9-12% oil in it.

Use afterrun oil! or a fuel that has it already in it.

Keep your buggy, and engine clean.

Blow out the top of the cooling head before you remove the glow plug! The dirt falls in the engine
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2009, 12:42 PM   #4
Tech Master
 
scwrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,421
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

+10 on jazz's list.
__________________
hbracing.com tritonrc.com raceaka.com
scwrod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2009, 03:29 PM   #5
Tech Regular
 
brentmorl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: jamestown ND
Posts: 449
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

+2 thats how i treat mine and my jammin jpx.21 is working on its 12 gal and all ive did was the bearing
__________________
ST-RR
LST2
AD-1
brentmorl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 01:03 AM   #6
Tech Apprentice
 
NielsVV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Belgium
Posts: 55
Default

How did you notice that your bearing was bad/broking?

Whats wrong with riding to rich?
NielsVV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 05:20 AM   #7
Tech Elite
 
MadRussian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 2,378
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

IIRC the owner of Nirtohouse has a GRP based Ninja .21 that has 14 gallons on it and is still stupid fast, I have 6 gallons on mine and its still as fast as when it was new.
MadRussian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 05:32 AM   #8
Tech Regular
 
elkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gresham Oregon
Posts: 359
Default The cost of doing business

This is an expensive hobby!. Sure the engine will last longer if you take care of it, but it won't last forever.
I am relatively new to this forum and have learned a lot from here. I have had a Nitro Rustler for 3 years and I think I have probably put 8 or 9 gallons through it and it still runs great. I never knew about pre-heating the engine, which makes great sense, and I never knew about returning the piston to the bottom of the stroke when you cool it down after driving which also makes perfect sense. I did already know that a well tuned , clean engine will last longer ( I use the same principle for my automobiles). I have taken great care of my Losi 8ight T RTR and after less than 2 gallons through the engine, the bottom end of the engine let loose on me and I am waiting to hear bach from Horizon Hobbies to see if they are going to warranty it.
I guess if you take good care if it, then it will take good care of you unless you have a mechanical failure.
__________________
"He's old enough to know what's right
But young enough not to choose it"
Neal Peart / Geddy Lee
****RUSH****
elkman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 11:41 AM   #9
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 43
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Periodically check the internals for wear as well.

I'm not "in the know", but running a motor rich can stress internals beyond what they were originally designed for. Remember that liquids don't compress like air. By increasing the amount of fuel in the air/fuel mixture, you are asking that little motor to compress the air further on each stroke than if you were running an ideal mix because there is less air in the cylinder to compress. Plus, you are just wasting fuel.
__________________
Jammin' X1-CR
Jammin' X2-CRT
Stock Slash
B4 Late Model
Still looking for driving skills. :confused:
improvement54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 12:06 PM   #10
Tech Elite
 
joe of loath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bristol, England, United Kingdom
Posts: 4,857
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by improvement54 View Post
Periodically check the internals for wear as well.

I'm not "in the know", but running a motor rich can stress internals beyond what they were originally designed for. Remember that liquids don't compress like air. By increasing the amount of fuel in the air/fuel mixture, you are asking that little motor to compress the air further on each stroke than if you were running an ideal mix because there is less air in the cylinder to compress. Plus, you are just wasting fuel.
you don't waste fuel if you have an afterburner
__________________
HPI E-Firestorm - Tamiya TA05 racer (carbon chassis, 10.5 brushless etc) - LRP Blast S10 BX - Revo 2.5r truggy conversion (in progress)
joe of loath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 12:27 PM   #11
Tech Regular
 
CHogle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 323
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to CHogle
Default

i richer motor tends to ware out your conrod and crankshaft quicker.
too lean motors tend to do the same ^

one big thing that saves motors is not over reving !! as well as proper tune.

if your engine is stalling or acting funny dont go and try to restart and get it on the track as soon as possable. (unless the engine ran out of fuel)

check on whats wrong and get the engine retuned and running properly. The engine stalls for a reasion, fix it and you and your engine will be happy..

you can hear and feel when engine bearings are going out..
your motor will have a hissing sound and will not idal properly, will leak fuel, will feel lean, and it will run hotter.

all engines have a life cycle, however when a engine's life is over usually you can replace the conrod, bearings, and give the pistion and sleeve pinched and your engine is good as new...

hope this helps
__________________
C.HOGLE
Serpent America, Novarossi, O'Donnnell fuel, PT Racing Oils, SMC, H-bomb Designs, Stick it 1 racing, Motor Savor Filters, Fastraxx Hobbies
CHogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 01:02 PM   #12
Tech Champion
 
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 6,575
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHogle View Post
i richer motor tends to ware out your conrod and crankshaft quicker.
too lean motors tend to do the same ^

one big thing that saves motors is not over reving !! as well as proper tune.

if your engine is stalling or acting funny dont go and try to restart and get it on the track as soon as possable. (unless the engine ran out of fuel)

check on whats wrong and get the engine retuned and running properly. The engine stalls for a reasion, fix it and you and your engine will be happy..

you can hear and feel when engine bearings are going out..
your motor will have a hissing sound and will not idal properly, will leak fuel, will feel lean, and it will run hotter.

all engines have a life cycle, however when a engine's life is over usually you can replace the conrod, bearings, and give the pistion and sleeve pinched and your engine is good as new...

hope this helps
+1 to everything.

Running too rich(too cold) puts alot of stress on parts. Engines are designed with very tight tolerences. The parts in engines are designed to reach the correct tolerences for running when they reach a certain temp. If you run an engine too cold you put stress on every part of the engine.

As for bearings going, you will hear them rattling when they are done. You can also feel them if you slowly turn the crankshaft by hand. If your engine starts popping plugs often, and your tune is good, check the bearings and rod. A worn out rod bushing or rear bearing will kill plugs.
__________________
-Koby Kubrin-
Thanks to my Sponsors:
Serpent America | Team Novarossi | Desoto Racing | Race AKA | Ridgeway Bodies
JAMMINKRAZY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 01:09 PM   #13
Tech Adept
 
SPEED37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Last Best Place
Posts: 159
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NielsVV View Post
How did you notice that your bearing was bad/broking?

Whats wrong with riding to rich?
The sleeve in your engine it tapered...smaller at the top. As the engine warms up the sleeve expands, to the correct size. If you run your engine cold (or rich) your essentially grinding the piston against the sleeve, causing very fast wear.
__________________
JAMMIN X2 CRT/HOUSTON/NOVAROSSI P5XS/OFNA-053
JAMMIN X2 CR/NOVAROSSI
SPEKTRUM/DX3S
BCG INDUSTRIES= Absolutely the best paint on the planet.
TEAM TERRIBLES
SPEED37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2009, 09:53 PM   #14
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEED37 View Post
The sleeve in your engine it tapered...smaller at the top. As the engine warms up the sleeve expands, to the correct size. If you run your engine cold (or rich) your essentially grinding the piston against the sleeve, causing very fast wear.
This is pretty close. When you buy a new motor, the designer factors the heat range that the motor will be run in to adjust the mechanical pinch the motor is built with. If you are not running in this range, you add additional stress on the bushings and rods along with more wear with the piston and sleave. Durring break in, this is why it is very important to preheat your motor is possible to lessen the impact of running "cold". Also, the fuel you use can also have an effect on motor life since the each fuel brand usually has their own oil additives that help protect the motors. If you do maintenance on your motors, changing the conrod when needed or front and rear bearings to help extend the life of the crank and the rod.
__________________
HB D8T with BCE Chassis, ACE Shock towers and motor mounts, M2C Rear Suspension system, KH front steering plate and chassis braces, Lunsford Ti-turnbuckles & hinge pins, OS Speed motor, Hitec 5995TG steering, Futaba 9351 throttle/brake, OS 2060 pipe, and J concepts Punisher Body.
HB D8: CEO Mods Novarossi P5K with JP4 tuned pipe, JR 9000T steering, JR 8800T throttle.
gotspeed_2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sirio engines thread EVOLUTION Offroad Nitro Engine Forum 2824 04-29-2014 10:58 AM
RC equipments for Sale ijnek Malaysian R/C Racers 22836 09-09-2009 01:50 PM
Crazy OS V-Spec Break In Methods? Don Duct Nitro Off-Road 22 05-12-2008 06:17 AM
FS: LRP Z.28R Spec 3, Near Brand New d4_racer Australia For Sale/Trade 36 02-29-2008 02:26 AM
Fantom Engine Manual = ABC Engine Bible Horatio Monster Trucks 9 02-05-2007 07:35 AM
RS5 Killed 5 of my plugs Slammed Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 23 04-15-2004 12:13 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:32 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net