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Old 04-15-2009, 07:20 PM   #1
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Default losi 8t 1.0 clutch bell bearings giong out

i have a losi 8t 1.o truggy running a rb ws7 3 motor i'am having trouble with the inside bearing going out after only 5-6 runs i have run metal bearings and ceramic i have it shimmed corectly but do not know why the bearings do not last anybody have this problem and how to repair this
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:29 PM   #2
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I have this problem too. I came to a couple of ideas. 1, too much or too little play, there should be .3-.5mm. 2, the clutch bell SHOULD NOT touch the flywheel. I seen wear marks on mine so I know thats a problem. 3, the whole clutch bell should be touching the spur. Only 3/4 of mine touch, going to get flywheel shims soon to fix this. 4, if you didnt blow otu the grease with an air compressor the bearings could get really hot. I didnt blow them out last time I was at the track....so I have a lot to improve upon!
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:04 PM   #3
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What clutch springs and shoes are you running? It might be getting too hot.

Improper gear mesh can also cause problems, it should be fairly loose to accommodate chassis flex but too loose can cause problems also.

Also a worn clutch bell can help accelerate bearing wear.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:04 PM   #4
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Is your engine squared up? that WILL kill bearings, if it is not squared up. Also how are you setting your mesh? You need to leave the mesh pretty loose in the losi's. There is alot of chasis flex in the cars, and if the mesh is too tight it will kill bearings when it flexes. What clutch setup are you running? Shoes, springs etc? If your clutch setup is slipping too much, that will create alot of heat and kill the bearings. You should also blast the grease out of the bearings with nitro spray. And if all else fails grab a KHZ extended engine mount. I run them on mine, and find that it really helps with bearing life.

How often are you killing bearings anyway? You say 5-6 runs, but how much fuel is that? Is that 5-6 weekends, or just something like 5-6 tanks fo gas? If it is weekends, then congrats your bearings are lasting forever. Even 5-6 tanks is quite a bit for a set of clutch bearings. I use the $1 cheapo bearings and change them often.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4251
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:04 AM   #5
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Ok, I use to have a 1.0 Monster eating bearings truck, and I did the following after talking to team drivers and anyone else that could help, this is what I did and solved my problems, never had a clutch bearing fail prematurely anymore:

Replace bearings (I use Losi bearings)
Replace clutch bell (could be out of round)
Make sure fuel is not coming out of engine's front bearing, clean with nitro spray
When installed, shim properly so clutch bell doesn't touch the flywheel
I had no luck shimming it loose, and after I had one of Losi's drivers shim it for me, I noticed that it only had a tick of play, maybe 1mm or 1.5mm.
make sure engine is straight and not cocked this will destroy your bearings, do not align engine with pipe holder secured to chassis, I used a piece of paper to set the mesh, again, this is crucial can't be too tight or too loose, just enough for you too notice a tick of play.

Almost forgot, make sure the clutch nut is nice and tight!! After I did this everything was good to go, it might be a good idea to givie it a try.....good luck
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toiffel View Post
Ok, I use to have a 1.0 Monster eating bearings truck, and I did the following after talking to team drivers and anyone else that could help, this is what I did and solved my problems, never had a clutch bearing fail prematurely anymore:

Replace bearings (I use Losi bearings)
Replace clutch bell (could be out of round)
Make sure fuel is not coming out of engine's front bearing, clean with nitro spray
When installed, shim properly so clutch bell doesn't touch the flywheel
I had no luck shimming it loose, and after I had one of Losi's drivers shim it for me, I noticed that it only had a tick of play, maybe 1mm or 1.5mm.
make sure engine is straight and not cocked this will destroy your bearings, do not align engine with pipe holder secured to chassis, I used a piece of paper to set the mesh, again, this is crucial can't be too tight or too loose, just enough for you too notice a tick of play.

Almost forgot, make sure the clutch nut is nice and tight!! After I did this everything was good to go, it might be a good idea to givie it a try.....good luck
Nice description thanks, But just want to make sure I understand the shimming correctly. After the flywheel nut do you need enough shims for the bell to not rub the flywheel? I have always used the manual on that and it says one .2mm shim. I have noticed there is a rub mark on my flywheel.I have had pretty good luck with bearing life but would like to know if I should add more shims there and then use less shims at the front of the bell?
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:28 AM   #7
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you need one of these to make sure the motor is square to the spur gear, look at post #5, i believe he has a couple..
Engine Mount?
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:30 AM   #8
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yes, you don't want the clutch bell to rub the flywheel!
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:40 AM   #9
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I am going to be ordering a set of 10 5X10s and 5X13s clutch bearings. So, all I want is longevity, would it be better to get the metal shielded or rubber shielded? They are the Protek bearings from amain, both the same price.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:51 AM   #10
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I am going to be ordering a set of 10 5X10s and 5X13s clutch bearings. So, all I want is longevity, would it be better to get the metal shielded or rubber shielded? They are the Protek bearings from amain, both the same price.
I use metal shielded in my clutch. The rubber sealed ones fall apart pretty quickly(rubber seals fall out).

Also when shimming the end play in the bell you don't want anywhere near 1mm. You really only want .2-.3mm of play. More than that you will have issues.

It is really easy to square an engine up. You don't need some special mount or anything. When you set your mesh, look at the screws in the bottom of the chassis. You want all 4 screws to be equal in the chassis slot. You can even measure it with a caliper if you want too. Personally I just eyeball it.
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:17 PM   #11
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you can find some usefull information here too:

http://www.twf8.ws/php/index.php?opt...per&Itemid=207
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:25 PM   #12
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What sizes are the two different bearings in the Losi Clutch, I am going to make an avid order
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:27 PM   #13
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What sizes are the two different bearings in the Losi Clutch, I am going to make an avid order
Outer is 5x10x4, inner is 5x13x4.
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:45 PM   #14
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Default losi 8t clutch bell bearings

thanx for info i race my 8t and i got about 5-6 races out of the bearings and run stock springs and aluminum and carbon shoes i will do as said thanz again
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Old 04-16-2009, 04:32 PM   #15
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thanx for info i race my 8t and i got about 5-6 races out of the bearings and run stock springs and aluminum and carbon shoes i will do as said thanz again
If you are getting 5-6 race weekends out of them, nothing is wrong. Actually that is great bearing life. If it is just 5-6 races or qualifiers, there might be something wrong. Although that is still decent life.
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