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Old 03-31-2009, 11:27 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by John Schafer View Post
If it's your first new engine, just follow the owners manual. You will get good results. Once you learn more about the engines you could expierment with other methods. Don't make the procces to complicated at first. The only thing I would say will really bennifit your new engine is pre heating it before starting it during break-in.
I see...but OS vspec's break-in manual is way too simple compared to other methods, still no clue which direction is the results for: long-life or performance?
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:31 PM   #17
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Either or. Works the same as long as the motor is new. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions.
Thanks Black, If I don't have heat gun to pre-heat the engine, what should I do? a heat gun is quite expensive...sorry I didn't PM, just want to share with everyone in this forum, thanks.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:39 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Krawl View Post
Thanks Black, If I don't have heat gun to pre-heat the engine, what should I do? a heat gun is quite expensive...sorry I didn't PM, just want to share with everyone in this forum, thanks.
Don't know if you're in the US but if you are:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96289

This heat gun is dirt cheap and works great. I can heat an engine to 220+ in under 3-4 minutes with it.

Another option is to send your engine out to one of the experienced engine guys that hang around here and have them do it for you.

What area in the world are you in anyway?

You could also ask the mechanic at your LHS what method he uses and if he'd be willing to let you hang out when he does it and explain it all to you so you can get your head wrapped around it for the next one.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:15 AM   #19
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Thanks Black, If I don't have heat gun to pre-heat the engine, what should I do? a heat gun is quite expensive...sorry I didn't PM, just want to share with everyone in this forum, thanks.
A hairdryer works fine to preheat too. You can do a "shield" with aluminium foil to make sure you "retain" the heat around the motor as a hairdryer sure isn't as powerful as a heatgun.

I stopped racing gas a few years back and just started a month ago (now my electric track closed) again... The pre-heat method really, really makes a difference. Make sure the motor also is at LDP (not sure how to say in english as this isn't my mother tongue, "lower dead point"? ie with the piston to the bottom) when stopped (it will typically spontaneously stop at the higher point) so the engine doesnt' suffer when cooling down after it stalled.

Good luck

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Old 04-01-2009, 03:32 AM   #20
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Thanks guys, I finally decided to ask a mechanic to do the break-in procedures after a few conversations with him, he sounds experienced and has some similarity between his methods and other methods from some trusted sources, even he asked me "you want fast engine or long-life engine?"...now that's pretty convincing. Wish me luck! Thanks again...
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Krawl View Post
"you want fast engine or long-life engine"
I've never heard anyone describe it like that before
So which one are you going for?
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:13 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by mfrosty View Post
Don't know if you're in the US but if you are:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96289

This heat gun is dirt cheap and works great. I can heat an engine to 220+ in under 3-4 minutes with it.

Another option is to send your engine out to one of the experienced engine guys that hang around here and have them do it for you.

What area in the world are you in anyway?

You could also ask the mechanic at your LHS what method he uses and if he'd be willing to let you hang out when he does it and explain it all to you so you can get your head wrapped around it for the next one.
I just got one of those for this coming season and a new engine. I have a local walk in store and they are $19.99 but I waited until they had them one week for half price. Lots of that stuff from HF goes on sale half price every week. Not sure if it will last forever like the $200 Milwaukee heat guns like the electricians use here at work but I got tired of borrowing one to replace bearings all of the time so now I have my own for starting engines too.
Grab one if you can. The hair dryers will work but you can use the heat gun for a lot of other things too like bearings and stuff around the house.
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
I've never heard anyone describe it like that before
So which one are you going for?
maybe it's only here in my country ...definitely long-life engine...
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:17 AM   #24
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I use the heat cycle method as found at johnnycoolguy.com with one exception the first 15 min of heat cycle I let idle on the box. I have had my engnes last well into the 8+ gal mark. Most engines aren't fully broken in until after at least 1 gal has been run through them. Break in is very important but just as important is tunning. You can perfeom the perfect break in and then blow it up within 5 tanks if it's tuned wrong. Every time before you start your engine ore heat it to 180 degrees and then start. Cold starts are very hard on the piston, sleeve, and rod. Always always pre heat before every start.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:28 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Krawl View Post
Thanks guys, I finally decided to ask a mechanic to do the break-in procedures after a few conversations with him, he sounds experienced and has some similarity between his methods and other methods from some trusted sources, even he asked me "you want fast engine or long-life engine?"...now that's pretty convincing. Wish me luck! Thanks again...
let us know how it went and i hope it goes fast for along time good luck
(be good to it and it will be good and fast for you)
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:50 AM   #26
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let us know how it went and i hope it goes fast for along time good luck
(be good to it and it will be good and fast for you)
Thanks Cary...I will...
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:59 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
I've never heard anyone describe it like that before
So which one are you going for?
The basic meaning of that question I think is he offered me two methods, first is extreme fast engine with shorter life period, second is fast engine in normal technical manner with long life period...pardon my english
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:11 PM   #28
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Either or. Works the same as long as the motor is new. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions.
I don't really get this (copied from murnanmodified.com):

3.) Next, with a fully engaged clutch, run the car at a very rich setting for about 750cc of fuel. Make sure the car is very slow at full throttle, and lots of smoke at this stage. If the car wants to go fast at this stage richen the main needle until the car makes lots of smoke, but does not move fast. Maximum R.P.M should be about 15,000 at this point. Let the engine cool again. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 150-170 degrees F.

How can we run the car very slow at full throttle? And how can we measure RPM?

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:29 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Krawl View Post
I don't really get this (copied from murnanmodified.com):

3.) Next, with a fully engaged clutch, run the car at a very rich setting for about 750cc of fuel. Make sure the car is very slow at full throttle, and lots of smoke at this stage. If the car wants to go fast at this stage richen the main needle until the car makes lots of smoke, but does not move fast. Maximum R.P.M should be about 15,000 at this point. Let the engine cool again. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 150-170 degrees F.

How can we run the car very slow at full throttle? And how can we measure RPM?

Thanks

I presume that means an extremely rich mixture so that it bogs while WOT.
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:43 PM   #30
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I presume that means an extremely rich mixture so that it bogs while WOT.
aaah...I see...that should be heavily bogs right? Because it's in WOT postion I guess...btw how slow if measured in mph?
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