Krawl

I see...but OS vspec's break-in manual is way too simple compared to other methods, still no clue which direction is the results for: long-life or performance?

Krawl

Thanks Black, If I don't have heat gun to pre-heat the engine, what should I do? a heat gun is quite expensive...sorry I didn't PM, just want to share with everyone in this forum, thanks.

mfrosty

iTrader: (14)

Don't know if you're in the US but if you are:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96289

This heat gun is dirt cheap and works great. I can heat an engine to 220+ in under 3-4 minutes with it.

Another option is to send your engine out to one of the experienced engine guys that hang around here and have them do it for you.

What area in the world are you in anyway?

You could also ask the mechanic at your LHS what method he uses and if he'd be willing to let you hang out when he does it and explain it all to you so you can get your head wrapped around it for the next one.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

A hairdryer works fine to preheat too. You can do a "shield" with aluminium foil to make sure you "retain" the heat around the motor as a hairdryer sure isn't as powerful as a heatgun.

I stopped racing gas a few years back and just started a month ago (now my electric track closed) again... The pre-heat method really, really makes a difference. Make sure the motor also is at LDP (not sure how to say in english as this isn't my mother tongue, "lower dead point"? ie with the piston to the bottom) when stopped (it will typically spontaneously stop at the higher point) so the engine doesnt' suffer when cooling down after it stalled.

Good luck

paul

Krawl

Thanks guys, I finally decided to ask a mechanic to do the break-in procedures after a few conversations with him, he sounds experienced and has some similarity between his methods and other methods from some trusted sources, even he asked me "you want fast engine or long-life engine?"...now that's pretty convincing. Wish me luck! Thanks again...

bjr48

I've never heard anyone describe it like that before
So which one are you going for?

bjr48

I just got one of those for this coming season and a new engine. I have a local walk in store and they are $19.99 but I waited until they had them one week for half price. Lots of that stuff from HF goes on sale half price every week. Not sure if it will last forever like the $200 Milwaukee heat guns like the electricians use here at work but I got tired of borrowing one to replace bearings all of the time so now I have my own for starting engines too.
Grab one if you can. The hair dryers will work but you can use the heat gun for a lot of other things too like bearings and stuff around the house.

Krawl

maybe it's only here in my country ...definitely long-life engine...

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I use the heat cycle method as found at johnnycoolguy.com with one exception the first 15 min of heat cycle I let idle on the box. I have had my engnes last well into the 8+ gal mark. Most engines aren't fully broken in until after at least 1 gal has been run through them. Break in is very important but just as important is tunning. You can perfeom the perfect break in and then blow it up within 5 tanks if it's tuned wrong. Every time before you start your engine ore heat it to 180 degrees and then start. Cold starts are very hard on the piston, sleeve, and rod. Always always pre heat before every start.

cary

iTrader: (67)

let us know how it went and i hope it goes fast for along time good luck
(be good to it and it will be good and fast for you)

Krawl

Thanks Cary...I will...

Krawl

The basic meaning of that question I think is he offered me two methods, first is extreme fast engine with shorter life period, second is fast engine in normal technical manner with long life period...pardon my english

Krawl

I don't really get this (copied from murnanmodified.com):

3.) Next, with a fully engaged clutch, run the car at a very rich setting for about 750cc of fuel. Make sure the car is very slow at full throttle, and lots of smoke at this stage. If the car wants to go fast at this stage richen the main needle until the car makes lots of smoke, but does not move fast. Maximum R.P.M should be about 15,000 at this point. Let the engine cool again. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 150-170 degrees F.

How can we run the car very slow at full throttle? And how can we measure RPM?

Thanks

Czolgosz

I presume that means an extremely rich mixture so that it bogs while WOT.

Krawl

aaah...I see...that should be heavily bogs right? Because it's in WOT postion I guess...btw how slow if measured in mph?