[email protected]

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys,

So I got my losi 8ight 1.0 competition kit used and all I can say is that this thing is durable. I have read a few of the "which car threads" and people have said that losi parts arent quality and there not durable. This is my first 1/8th buggy so is the competition really that much more durable? I raced at wolcott the other weekend and even though I made errors with the set up of the car when I was driving it was just a tank. I went over 12 feet in the air and cartwheeled and each time 0 parts broken (this happened a solid 4 to 5 times). I was bashing and missed the jump and slammed into the bottom of a tree, no broken parts!! Am I getting lucky and are most other brands even more durable than this. I dont want to start an argument hear I just wanted to know for future reference.
Thanks

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

1/8 buggies are truggies are some of the most durable RCs there are. From what youve explained, that is really nothing for a 1/8 buggy or truggy. I think what those people mean are the quality of the Losi parts arent on par with Xray, Mugen, Kyosho, etc. The 8ight is very durable, just wears a little quick. But Losi's runs good with slop.

[email protected]

iTrader: (6)

ok, but if the parts arent as quality wouldn't it break easier and more? What im trying to figure out is are most other cars even more durable than the losi? Also when I hit the tree I was easily going 25 mph, if that is nohing for these cars How hard do you guys drive?

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

What people mean about Losi durability isn't related to toughness. I didn't break things on mine either.

The CVA's and diff outdrives, and the diff cases themselves wear more rapidly than many other 1/8 scales. That isn't to say the Losi is bad... it is a good car.

On the plus side, Losi parts are relatively inexpensive, so in the long run it is probably a wash. You might buy 3 sets of CVD's etc for every 2 on another brand, but the price will work out the same.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I drive my Losi 8ight hard. Although its an E-conversion, it does get tossed around quite a bit. If you've ever built a Mugen, the plastics on the Losi do not compare. The Mugen plastics are fairly robust and seem of better material.

I was skeptical of my Losi at first, but so far, it has held up pretty well. I've only bent a front shocktower, and that is an RTR shocktower. I have since replaced it with the OEM 5mm CNC machined tower.

My only gripe is my 8ight has developed quite a bit of slop after two days on the track. When I had my old Mugen XR Works buggy, I ran half a gallon and aside from the ball connector for the steering link being a bit worn, everything else felt almost as tight as new.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

losis wear fast because of their design. When you use a bone like losi does instead of a true cvd you can twist the bone 45 deg. when it's at an angle and it will often times be sitting at 40deg. on the other side. Then when you spin it to 110 it very well may be sitting at 115 on the other side. It is just the nature of the design. Since these pins are acelerating and decelerating greatly every rotation it will add more wear to the buggy. Once slop has become noticeable in the drive line these fluctuations will become much more minimal.

smash8ight

iTrader: (8)

yea i to was a first time 8th scaler with my new 8 kit.never broke anything major just a hing pin(outer/inner)and a shock shaft.but to keep the car tight was a whole nuther story.but all in all i would buy it agian.it never left me stranded on the track with broken parts.

John Schafer

iTrader: (2)

I've had the 1.0 buggy for a while. Didn't drive good at all until parts started to loosen up a little. I have only had one part break, the outer end of a steering tie-rod. Can't belive it broke out around the ball and didn't simply just pop off. I did bend an outer rear hinge pin, and I've had some minor issues with the shocks, but nothing else. It has been very durable for me. That is one of the reasons I just bought a new 8T2.0 a couple weeks ago.

[email protected]

iTrader: (6)

so when you guys say slop does anything need to be replaced, also will the first timer really know what slop is?

John Schafer

iTrader: (2)

A little slop can be a good thing. If the suspention is tight things start to bind when you get a little dirt in the joints, or something gets a little tweeked. If the suspention starts to bind it can really hurt handling. For the most part, you don't really need to replace anything unless it is severly worn. There are exceptions, like the hop-up suspention mounts that use plastic inserts. You need to watch them closely for proper fit between the insert and arm mount. You also want to keep an eye on the top shock mount bushings. The tops of the shocks should move freely when mounted, but you should not allow them to get sloppy or you may start to wear or elongate the holes in the aluminum caps. Thats all I can think of right now that you have to keep an eye on.

You want all the suspention parts to fall freely under their own weight. You also want to make sure all your steering links move freely and are not tight or you'll overwork your servo, and have decreased steering response, along with draining your battery quicker.

Hope this helps a little.

[email protected]

iTrader: (6)

yes that helps, when you say the tops of the shocks should move freely like how much? Able wiggle right and left? Also how will I know when its too sloppy? Also anything on he drive train I should watch for wear?

John Schafer

iTrader: (2)

The shocks should be able to rotate freely, but should not be allowed to move up and down more than about .015"-.025" (.5mm).

As for the drive train. You need to watch for any sloppy bearings. If the wheels start to get a lot of side to side play, you want to check the wheel bearings. If the diff outdrives (all three diffs) start to get any side play you want to check those bearings. Same thing goes for the front and rear diff input shafts. Your going to get wear in the cvd joints. The main one to watch is the front center. It'll work fine with quite a bit of slop but it may be the first thing you'll need to replace from normal wear and tear. Something that will help is GMK cvd condoms. Available from Amain, they allow you to retain grease in the joint which will reduce wear. They only fit the center shafts. The cvd joints at the wheels should be run dry.

Are you familiar with clutch maintainance? I'm shure you know a few good ways to break loose stuck screws and stuck clutch bearings. I'm more refering to cleaning and oiling bearings often and filing down the burrs on the shoes?

[email protected]

iTrader: (6)

yes im familiar with that. I have been taking my clutch off every 1 hour of run time and relubricating and cleaning the bearings and I havent seen any burs on the shoes yet.

Also when you say the shocks shouldnt move up and down? Are we talking about where the top of the shock bolts onto the shock tower because wouldnt the only play there be left and right?

Also when you say any play in the diff outdrives. I took my center diff out to change oil and check bearings. When I took it out I couldnt figure out how to get the bearings off? Also my outdrives seem to have a bit of up and down play but not really left and right play, what does this mean?

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

About the diffs and side by side play, an unshimmed diff would wobble worse than a shimmed diff, with slop in the bearings. Make sure to shim the diff and clutch bell or nothing will last long.

Check out the outer rear hinge pins too. They seem to be the weak spot on the Losi. Every time I run it, they seem to bend a little bit. You can unbend them, but it will just happen again. Get the M2C outer rear hinge pins, they are $12 and are alot stronger. Dont buy the Lunsford version though.

On a side note, when i first got the buggy I sanded down the arms a little bit so an o ring could fit to make the wheelbase longer (BAD idea). There is like 2mm of slop in the rear arms. Should I just put the o ring on each side, or run it with the slop?

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

We are talking about the suspension, not the shocks.