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Old 04-08-2009, 11:27 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by " Kaulin" View Post
Someone needs to pay the water bill there even when it rains its dry,how can anyone get any real data or practice.You have to go light weight oils in the shocks and diff and run the car loose .and by all means stay in the groove. See ya Saturday

It is the Sahara desert out there.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:33 AM   #92
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Has anyone experienced this ?



Wonder how the lightened ones will fare ?

Here's my daily runner fitted with a fuel canister pretending to b a filter & an exhaust cooler :



Here's my Ti one :



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Old 04-09-2009, 08:25 AM   #93
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Wow, Joe. I wouldn't expect that kind of wear characteristic on a off-road vehicles outdrives like that. Was the driveshaft on one side slightly bent from an accident, and it was possibly wobbling a bit in the cup, which could have caused it to wear a lot faster? That step-wear thing where there are really two-levels of wear, and a drastic difference in between like that... That's obviously the front end, right? You usually see a rounded cup worn in the side where the power is applied to the driveshafts, and it looks like you've flipped them around to compensate for it, and are runnng them the other direction, right? I guess that hapens because of the true-universals and how they pull the driveshaft out of the cup further when turning at a full angle. We'll have to see how the new lightened ones wear...

Has anyone been able to get the giant stock filter to fit under the body somehow? Is that it in yoour pics, Joe? (looks like it..) It just jams into the throttle linkage too much.

Also - Howdoes the tank hold up without any rubber mounts where the screws hold it down? Shoould I be using any kind of bushing or rubber grom in between the tank posts, and the actual tank itself?

thx - J
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:35 AM   #94
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Hi NsideLine,

This one is actually the one at the rear. The pin shown is a new one just been changed by my LHS. Mine is a conversion so I'm still having the old X1 cups. Not really sure how much mileage I have on them though. This vehicle is like 4 years old but seldom utilised. Converted to an X2 a few months back & ran it more from then. I am going to replace them with some HB ones & see how long they last. My friend, also running a converted X2 buggy, has experienced a similar problem too.

The filter is a problem. It's a tight fit. I have moved the thottle linkage to below the servo horn to avoid interference. For some reason, my original kit had the linkage above the horn - no chance for the stock body to fit in that configuration. I'm still trying out the HN filter - have been running a Thunder Tiger one prior to this.

I am on my second tank because I'm using option brakes with metal discs. One screw holding the brake pad is hitting the tank resulting in probably a leak. Had to change back to the stock setup but trying out some aftermarket brake discs though. I am also thinking of using some rubber grommet at the fuel tank mounts but a bit lazy to do so at the moment. Is a good idea.

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Originally Posted by NsideLine View Post
Wow, Joe. I wouldn't expect that kind of wear characteristic on a off-road vehicles outdrives like that. Was the driveshaft on one side slightly bent from an accident, and it was possibly wobbling a bit in the cup, which could have caused it to wear a lot faster? That step-wear thing where there are really two-levels of wear, and a drastic difference in between like that... That's obviously the front end, right? You usually see a rounded cup worn in the side where the power is applied to the driveshafts, and it looks like you've flipped them around to compensate for it, and are runnng them the other direction, right? I guess that hapens because of the true-universals and how they pull the driveshaft out of the cup further when turning at a full angle. We'll have to see how the new lightened ones wear...

Has anyone been able to get the giant stock filter to fit under the body somehow? Is that it in yoour pics, Joe? (looks like it..) It just jams into the throttle linkage too much.

Also - Howdoes the tank hold up without any rubber mounts where the screws hold it down? Shoould I be using any kind of bushing or rubber grom in between the tank posts, and the actual tank itself?

thx - J
Regards,
Joe Ling
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:45 AM   #95
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Had that same problem with the rear outdrives on my X1 before conversion to X2, and actually snapped two universals because of it before I noticed the groove. That was after 30+ race days on the car though.

Stock tank is pretty tough, I still run my original tank without O-rings and its been fine.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:48 AM   #96
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Oh, and I run the original X1 air filter as well and have no clearance issues. I'm running a Proline body though, wonder if the stock body is lower. May have to check that when I get home.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:04 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeling View Post
Hi NsideLine,

This one is actually the one at the rear. The pin shown is a new one just been changed by my LHS. Mine is a conversion so I'm still having the old X1 cups. Not really sure how much mileage I have on them though. This vehicle is like 4 years old but seldom utilised. Converted to an X2 a few months back & ran it more from then. I am going to replace them with some HB ones & see how long they last. My friend, also running a converted X2 buggy, has experienced a similar problem too.

The filter is a problem. It's a tight fit. I have moved the thottle linkage to below the servo horn to avoid interference. For some reason, my original kit had the linkage above the horn - no chance for the stock body to fit in that configuration. I'm still trying out the HN filter - have been running a Thunder Tiger one prior to this.

I am on my second tank because I'm using option brakes with metal discs. One screw holding the brake pad is hitting the tank resulting in probably a leak. Had to change back to the stock setup but trying out some aftermarket brake discs though. I am also thinking of using some rubber grommet at the fuel tank mounts but a bit lazy to do so at the moment. Is a good idea.



Regards,
Joe Ling
Joe,

I was wondering about the linkage issue too. It seems to bind really bad when mounted on top, even with the carb pull in the most upright position... I was thinking about running it under, but thought the angle wouldn't be ideal, so I left it, and just loosened up the screw that screws into the horn. I'll try the lower mounting position tonight, and I also need to look at the front steering linkage. The servo saver was so tight after Chad built it, that it stripped the plastic horn in like 2 mins. and then actually bent my aluminum horn later as well in a little crash. I need to find one of those racer's edge alum. horns that clamps on... Those look sweet, but I'm not sure if any of the shops sell them...
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:01 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by joeling View Post
Has anyone experienced this ?



Wonder how the lightened ones will fare ?

Here's my daily runner fitted with a fuel canister pretending to b a filter & an exhaust cooler :



Here's my Ti one :



Regards,
Joe Ling
Yes, I have seen really high wear on the input cups, Keep an Eye on the pins and change em often, they cups do seem to wear fast.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:08 AM   #99
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The Kyosho cups fit perfectly and last a long time, in the center diff and front and rear diffs and very reasonably priced
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:01 AM   #100
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Are you using the cups off the MP9?
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #101
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I think it should b the ones from the 7.5 or 777. The diffs from those cars are similar in dimensions to the HN & the HB lightning ones.

My problem is that Kyposho parts are not readily available in my neck of the woods & Kyosho probably has distinct zones for distribution so nobody in America can to sell to me

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Are you using the cups off the MP9?
Regards,
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:21 PM   #102
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Did someone post that they were wondering whther or not Bradley runs the two-shim setup on the rear diff? Its true - He uses two shims on each side of the internal diff gears that ride on the cross-shafts... I got a bradley-pro built kit and just disassembled the rear diff to switch it to 2000 wt oil, and checked it out. It seemed that the internal gears were not hardened alum. has anyone seen premature wear, and or are there any replacements that are hardened, or made of a stronger/ longer lasting material? Or is it even an issue?
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:36 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by NsideLine View Post
Did someone post that they were wondering whther or not Bradley runs the two-shim setup on the rear diff? Its true - He uses two shims on each side of the internal diff gears that ride on the cross-shafts... I got a bradley-pro built kit and just disassembled the rear diff to switch it to 2000 wt oil, and checked it out. It seemed that the internal gears were of a lesser wuality than some I've seen and I was just wondering if anyone has seen premature wear, and or are there any replacements that are hardened, or made of a stronger/ longer lasting material? They seem to be made of cheap, molded aluminum. Not at all characteristic of the rest of the cars' parts... Is there a reason for this? Anyone have any ideas?
i use the hotbodies hardened diff gears but i bash my buggy and truggy so they may handle racing ok hope this helps.
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:19 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NsideLine View Post
Did someone post that they were wondering whther or not Bradley runs the two-shim setup on the rear diff? Its true - He uses two shims on each side of the internal diff gears that ride on the cross-shafts... I got a bradley-pro built kit and just disassembled the rear diff to switch it to 2000 wt oil, and checked it out. It seemed that the internal gears were of a lesser wuality than some I've seen and I was just wondering if anyone has seen premature wear, and or are there any replacements that are hardened, or made of a stronger/ longer lasting material? They seem to be made of cheap, molded aluminum. Not at all characteristic of the rest of the cars' parts... Is there a reason for this? Anyone have any ideas?
Same gears they have always used...the actually last prety long.
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:25 AM   #105
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i Have also that problem , and had to rebuild the diffs for two times now.

gr Michel
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