Uptown

I am running the X2 Buggy, Silvers on the rear they are harder than the white. I think you would have to use 35wt at least might be too heavy? My car has free movement all around. Do you mean stock sway bars? or 'reg' as in 2.5f and 2.8rear

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

i ran 40-45wt oil in my shocks all year around but with temps being so cold where your from 35wt will be good. and i ran the sway bars that came with the kit and ran them about 1mm from the end. mine worked great for me. alot of people that ran the X2 in my area mocked my setup and made minor changes from mine to fit them better.

Uptown

What shock pistons are you using? stock 1.4
I agree with stock or at least lighter sway bars, mabe 2.3-2.5front and 2.5 rear, stock bars are 2.0f and 2.3 rear

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

run everything stock!! changing sway bars is not the first step you need to make, also on the shock towers run the shocks in the middle whole and on the arms run them in the inside hole. also on ride height, run front arms level and rear arms barely above level. that should be the ticket on your track. now if there is low traction and smooth run the rear lower than level, i always ran front arms level.

Uptown

I ran the buggy stock last year for about 1 race, it was always stepp;ing out the rear and getting bucked on the jumps. Kinda like I talked about earlier. This year I've been trying much different shock setups and most are not very good in the bumps. I just finished building 1.35f+r, 35 silverf, 25 yellow rear, set the ride height to arms level front and just above level rear. This is what I ran last year and it was good but mabe I need to fine tune tires, camber ect.
The shock setup feels really plush and rebound is smooth, Will test out tomorrow if the rain lets up!

Great topic lets keep it going Guys!

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

what you run in your diffs?

this buggy is EXTREMELY hard to setup correctly, i had all the same problems and i was trying everything you are and one weekend i said screw it and went back to everything stock and fine tuned. 2.5 or 3 toe is all i ever ran both buggy and truggy. always ran 40wt AE oil in shocks all the way around. blue springs front and white in rear unless it was rough or high traction. ran 5k-5k-3k AE diff oil front to back. 1.0 kyosho clutch springs with dynamite max life shoes with 17T ofna clutch bell (i know this may seem silly but clutch and CB makes a difference in handling). the buggy ran great very stable and jumped extremely level. if anything the front would kick up some but thats easier to correct in the air. also what servos are you running? and what servo saver you have, spring on top or bottom?

copy this setup exactly, this is the one i copied and actually stuck pretty much to it but all i changed was the shock oil and it was about as perfect handling as you could get with the X2: http://jamminproducts.com/CRsetups/X2setCBifmar08.pdf

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

but i really hate to say this, but i think youll get to a point and say enough is enough and i highly recomend switching to Hotbodies, that is the best buggy and truggy i have ever driven. i was racing with every brand to see which one i want to buy (it helps having rich friends ) but i never drove a HB and decided to give them a try because of price and it was the best move ever, love them, way more durable than i thought and extremely easy to drive, the manual setup was almost spot on

the only reason i stuck to jammin as long as i did was because i am a full time college student and money was tight and i wasnt spending any money on fixing my jammin so i just fulled with setup, everytime i drove it i made some change until i finally found something that worked good. but then i just said its time for change so i sold everything but one of my truggies (only 5 races on it, its for sale if anyone interested) and bought a HB truggy and then a HB buggy.

aceinthesky

iTrader: (43)

question, where can i find tool zip pouch that comes with the ofna carrying bag

Uptown

Actually Last year I started out with a HotBodies Buggy. Partly due to Ty Tessmans showing at our events. I had the first gen drive shafts ect. I found I was breaking too many parts and didn't want to spend the dough on hop ups. So I went back to Jammin. There are alot of HB truggys out here running on top but lots of them have troubles finishing races, some are hard on them but regardless. My track is Hard packed clay and gets really bumpy.
I have found the white rear springs with 1.35 piston and 27.5 to be a little bouncy and unforgiving. I'm starting to think it's because the car is so light, and the rear shocks are long. Most guys around here are running yellow springs with great improvements. I am running 553 diffs, 2 to 2.5 antisquat and chads setup for cambers ect. I have tried 757 and 555 diffs and that really tames the car down in corners. You can push it alot harder without spinning out.
I Just wanted to see if anyone else has had to rough track and takeoff problems, with mabe there cure.
I will be sticking with Jammin but thanks for the recommendation. Hopefully jammin gets some better (average Racer) setups on there web. I just can't justify with the duability of the X2!
Keep racing those Jammins!

Manufacturercup

One thing to try is move the lower rear hub to he upper hole. One of he best things if you car is loose is to run the 1 deg antisquat. It still works good in the bumps

I run 555 diffs, 1.3 pistons with 35f 25 r. And blue front sponge and yellow rear. 3 deg rear toe and 1 deg anti squat. Rear camber link in he middle hole on the hub. Rear hinge pin in the upper hole.

Uptown

Thanks for the setup advise. Your a Jammin Driver right? You should get your setup posted on jammins website, might help people race more consistently
I appreciate the advice from everyone. Thanks again
I installed the blue front with yellow rear with good success.
so your rear camber is in the middle hole on the rear hub, stock hub only has 2 hole, I am running the aluminum hub so middle hole is ok. Also you said rear hinge pin in the upper hole, thats the lower rear hub position?
I will be testing this setup with 2degree squat, and 1.35 pistons. I have built another set of shocks with 1.3 pistons and with try comparison tests for my track, like I stated it is pretty bumpy, If the rears stepping out I will try 1 degree squat but traction usually isn't a problem on our clay with bump handling being more more important, I think anyways
Thanks for the replys again

Manufacturercup

You are right, we do need to get more current set-ups on the site.

Sorry I am running the aluminum rear hubs also, so yes middle the hub. If traction isn't a problem you could probably move it the the inside on the hub. Believe it or not but the aluminum rear hubs give the rear more traction. Crazy but true.

For the hinge pin in the rear hub i run the upper hole so the pin goes through the hole closest to the bearing in the rear hub. You have to measure you ride height from a flat surface to the rear toe plate. I don't remember my ride height number but When running the lower hole in the rear hub I run my ride height with my arms slightly below level. So with this new rear hub position the arms are even more below level. But the distance from the ground to the chassis is the same. Hope that make sense. Front arms are level. Make sure you are checking your ride height with a half tank and body on.

morocho1979

I use in my Jammin X2 for a track dusty and bumpy on diff 4k-3k-2k in shock's front Blue with 45 and White 40. front bar stock and rear bar 2.8mm and antisquad 1°

engr673

iTrader: (17)

Is Jammin done with the X2?? I have noticed that some of the online stores no longer sale it and some say it is discontinued??

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

The car is not discontinued, but if you need to order parts I would go with A-main hobbies or Nitrohouse.com, I'm driving it with a Bulldog body. Works pretty good.