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Old 10-26-2009, 06:43 PM   #406
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i tried that mugen oil 400 in all four shocks to start with and dropped the 200 to add the grip. The motor does have a wicked power band. I thought about putting it on my new x2 truggy and going back to the reilable ninjas for the buggy.

On another note the back chassis brace from the x2 truggy will fit the new x2 buggy. I was wondering if the cvd would also fit if someone was in a bind. I did raise the center diff fluid way up and that also did not help the loose condition.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:26 PM   #407
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i tried that mugen oil 400 in all four shocks to start with and dropped the 200 to add the grip. The motor does have a wicked power band. I thought about putting it on my new x2 truggy and going back to the reilable ninjas for the buggy.

On another note the back chassis brace from the x2 truggy will fit the new x2 buggy. I was wondering if the cvd would also fit if someone was in a bind. I did raise the center diff fluid way up and that also did not help the loose condition.
try running 5/5/3 fr-rear mugan diff fluid. I also installed a 1.5 anti squat plate to the rear. That really helped. I am not sure of the cvd. That engine is for a big wide open track. For smaller tracks the engine will still work just not as well as a 3 or 5 port.I like the ninja engine,just like the go-tec better. I forgot to mention I am using a dynamite 086 pipe that is a mid/ top end pipe. If you want more low end grunt and still good mid and top, try the dynamite053 pipe. I used the pipe on my 7 port with the .95 springs and had a really good handling engine. Just remember mine is a stock 7 port. It's funny writing this. You put in a plastic rear brace where I put in an king headz chassis brace front and rear to stiffen it up and let the shocks do the work[buy taking flex out] For my driving style this is working great for me.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:22 AM   #408
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just hit the track with the x2 this weekend. would have to say that is alittle better then the x1cr, but i am having problems under accelration with the car getting really lose. Setup is 5,5,2 Stock springs, 400 in front and 200 in rear. 3.0 rear block Camber -2 all the way around new rb mods go tech 7 port with the stock clutch stuff in the box. Changed rear chassis brace from alloy to plastic. This help some, however not enough. Car jumps really good and handles rough area good. Just to lose or really twitchy out of the hole. Any help would be nice. Like alot of you guys have said its hard to find jammins on the east coast so exchanging setups is out of the question.
Wired,
I had the same problem when I switched over from the X1X to the X2. Took advice from one of the top Jammin Pro drivers and installed a 1 degree rear anti squat plate. Didn't change anything else on setup and it has worked perfect for me at 5 different tracks consisting of multiple conditions. The rear end stays planted and does not kick out unpredictably. Diffs: 5/5/3 OFNA, Shocks: F 35 Losi with 1.35 pistons and Blue springs/ R 25 Losi with 1.35 pistons and White springs. 3 degree rear toe block. 0 on front sway bar and 5-6mm on rear sway bar. Good luck with your buggy and hope to hear that some of these may work for you.
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:02 PM   #409
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We have been using X2 CRT stoneguards in our buggy for this season.
Makes the car a lot narrower.
Just cut down the front piece of the guards to fit buggy bodies and make few new holes to mount them.

Check the attachments.

On one of the pics is original VS. modified.


We also used the CRT.5 radio box. This needs an adapter to be made to mount it to radio tray. Just a little more work.


One more secret
We made our own link type front end. After the testing it made the car turn more smoother and really improved the handling over bumbs.


Our car weights around 3200 grams, race ready. We managed to drop the weight by milling the chassi, new front upper link, smaller radio box, narrowing the chassis and using narrower 808 body etc.
will that mod suites the x1x cr? what other bodies can we fit besides the 808 shell?
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:08 PM   #410
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finally, find out how to make the car feel planted in turns. 30,000 in the center diff, 3 degrees neg camber in the rear on both sides, and bigger sway
bar in the rear.
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:14 PM   #411
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30k in the center of the buggy huh? If it works for you, rock it
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:21 PM   #412
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How does the X1 CR Factory Team Pro kit compare to the X2? What are the differences between the two buggies? I did a search and don't see much talk of the X1's.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:37 PM   #413
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a x1xcr handles like a dream compared to the new x2 out of the box. I should have said is more forgiving and easier to driver. However with some changes the x2 is coming around.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:40 PM   #414
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How does the X1 CR Factory Team Pro kit compare to the X2? What are the differences between the two buggies? I did a search and don't see much talk of the X1's.
1. x2 has a lot more steering than the x1

2. from an x1 cr factory team to an X2- spiral cut gears, truggy gearing, different radio tray, different chassis, alu center prop shafts, lightened drive cups, carbon shock towers. I think thats everything
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:55 AM   #415
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Its good for about 1/2 ounce savings. Pretty good!
Half ounce is how many gram? Thinking to try that too.
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:07 AM   #416
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Try a 1 degree anti squat plate. That helped me.

Also I moved my lower arms in the real up a hole on the hub. If you do that you have to measure your ride height before and match it when you make that change because the arms will look below level. This made the biggest change and now the buggy feels planted. Turns in nice and free and anytime you get loose just hit the gas and your are straight. I'll post my set up soon if you guys would like to try it.
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:13 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wired View Post
just hit the track with the x2 this weekend. would have to say that is alittle better then the x1cr, but i am having problems under accelration with the car getting really lose. Setup is 5,5,2 Stock springs, 400 in front and 200 in rear. 3.0 rear block Camber -2 all the way around new rb mods go tech 7 port with the stock clutch stuff in the box. Changed rear chassis brace from alloy to plastic. This help some, however not enough. Car jumps really good and handles rough area good. Just to lose or really twitchy out of the hole. Any help would be nice. Like alot of you guys have said its hard to find jammins on the east coast so exchanging setups is out of the question.
I fought this same problem for months. Tried everything (diffs,rear toe, antisquat, shocks....). What finally worked for me is going back to a setup similar to the one you describe, but with neutral toe in the front. It was magic!! All of a sudden the rear became hooked!!!
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:53 PM   #418
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like i said. the best solution is putting the arms up a hole on the hub.

again make sure you check your ride height before and after. Made a HUGE difference for me.
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:05 PM   #419
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like i said. the best solution is putting the arms up a hole on the hub.
again make sure you check your ride height before and after. Made a HUGE difference for me.
I don't quite get what you mean. Could you post a drawing or photo or setup sheet??

Thanks!!
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:11 PM   #420
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Look on the bottom of the rear hub. See how there are two holes there?

Start by setting up your ride height as usual. Then you have to measure it.

(That will be your new way of checking rear ride height in the rear I think mine ended up at 31mm but that was at the track with sort of uneven tables)

Then you want to move the lower arm up to that hole and reset the ride height back to what you had measured. Because the arms will make it look like it is low.

I will try to photo shop something up.
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