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Old 06-10-2009, 09:19 AM   #256
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NSIDELINE, I have been running the one piece engine mount with out any problems for the last 4 months? Is any one else running it? or am I missing something that's going on with the car? I am using go tec 5-7 port engines.
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:53 PM   #257
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao View Post
try to install the clutch the other way, you will be able to feel the didfference
Thanks!!
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:39 PM   #258
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Originally Posted by NsideLine View Post
I've been having this happen with the front-left driveshaft when coming down off big jumps, and/or landing slightly crooked and the driveshaft just comes out of the diff and jams itself up in there.

Does anyone ever have this problem, and if so, what causes it? Too much up-travel? Is there a simple solution? I haven't ever had it happen on the other side, and it seems that the left DS sits a bit more shallow in the diff cup, but I can't determine why... I have my diff spaced with two washers on each side just as Chad had it when I first pulled it apart...

I appreciate any help...

Jason

I've never had this problem. Just looked at mine and at full up-travel without shocks on they are nowhere near popping out. Inadvertant rear driveshaft in the front? Warped lower arm? Dunno.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:05 AM   #259
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I've never had this problem. Just looked at mine and at full up-travel without shocks on they are nowhere near popping out. Inadvertant rear driveshaft in the front? Warped lower arm? Dunno.
That was it... Duh!

Well, I can honestly say I wouldn't have missed it had I originally built the whole car myself, but my fault for not going to the manual first and just assuming this car to be like another... The front driveshafts are different from the rear, and I didnt realize it... My car is the first of the Chad Bradley "pro-built" kits... Got it straight from Dave and Steve at Ofna when they were out of new kits and had mine on RC Deal.com. I persuaded them to make me a deal on it, and since I never tore it down because there wasn't time before the first race, I never took all four DS out at once and noticed the ribs on the front ones that indicate they are the longer pair... So I had crashed and broke the front arm at one point and pulled the driveshaft out, and replaced it with one I had in my spare parts... It was a rear this whole time! Wow, I ran that like that for 7-8 races! Couldnt understand why it would randomly pop out! Well, that solves the only real problem I've had with the car up till now! The X2 is a rock. I have survived some serious incidents and I'll put my money on this being the strongest car on the market if anyone were to ask...

Thanks Sugs.

J
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:33 PM   #260
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That's a cool wrap, who makes it?
The wrap was done by Custon Racing Decal, if you google for it you can find his site, don't have enough posts yet here to place the link for you
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Old 06-13-2009, 06:32 AM   #261
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Originally Posted by NsideLine View Post
That was it... Duh!

Thanks Sugs.

J
You're welcome. Glad it was an easy fix!

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The wrap was done by Custon Racing Decal, if you google for it you can find his site, don't have enough posts yet here to place the link for you

Cool. I'll check them out.
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:23 AM   #262
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Finally completed the X2 conversion and will be running it today at a smaller local track. Really looking forward to learning the new Buggy characteristics.
I ran into similar issues with the single one peice engine mount (slightly dremeled off the front right upper corner for clearance) and the right rear of the engine mounting block area (on OS Engine).
Also, dremeled the upper portion of the wing mount, to provide clearance from the shock tower, especialy when the car flexes.
Will be trying Chad's latest recommendation setup on the shocks (1.35 pistons and oil) and will post results hopefully by tomorrow.
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:50 PM   #263
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Finally got to run the new X2 Buggy yesterday and WOW! The new car is awesome, to say the least and does everything better than the older versions. Used Chad's (Farm II Worlds) recommended setup with changes to the shock pistons and oil weight (F/R pistons drilled 1.35 and F 35wt/R 25wt oil). Much more driving practice needed from me, but the car is amazing and glad to se it kept it's durability. After tear down (prep for 2 upcoming races this week) there is no signs of wear on anything. Look forward to competing against all other brands in the area and again, have a Jammin Buggy on the track and running up in the front pack. The Proline Caliber M3 tires worked fantastic on the car.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:23 PM   #264
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I have a question for anyone who knows. when going over a jump and the front nose dives is the oil to lite or heavy? In the rear shocks.
jammin x-2 blue fr. springs, white rear.
I read the answer some where but cannot remember.
I thought oil to lite,compressing shock and making rear spring up after take off. causing the car want to flip forward.
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:23 AM   #265
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Originally Posted by bigmatt View Post
I have a question for anyone who knows. when going over a jump and the front nose dives is the oil to lite or heavy? In the rear shocks.
jammin x-2 blue fr. springs, white rear.
I read the answer some where but cannot remember.
I thought oil to lite,compressing shock and making rear spring up after take off. causing the car want to flip forward.
Is it one jump or every jump? Usually when that happens to my car the ride height is off.
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:04 AM   #266
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every jump
I will recheck ride height, Do you want ride height same fr-rear? and we check 1/2 tank of fuel correct? what is the ride height supposed to be?
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:59 PM   #267
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Arms level front and rear, yes with 1/2 tank of fuel. I constantly check ride height. Before it goes on the track, right when it comes off the track. Things can change during race day and its best to keep an eye on things. Check your droop too.

What springs and oil are you using btw?
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:08 PM   #268
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Originally Posted by bigmatt View Post
every jump
I will recheck ride height, Do you want ride height same fr-rear? and we check 1/2 tank of fuel correct? what is the ride height supposed to be?
The jammin car is not known for doing that, check and make sure your front brake is free when you release the throttle, check for a broken clutch spring, it can drag and partially engage the clutch causing the nose to drop, off throttle. Disconnect the rear drive shaft and make sure the front spins freely. Sounds like something in the front end or brakes. Even check the out drive cups from the center diff. I have seen all these items cause the nose to dive and you wont feel it anywhere else on the track unless you the know the car really well and can feel minor things while driving it.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:16 PM   #269
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Originally Posted by sugs View Post
Arms level front and rear, yes with 1/2 tank of fuel. I constantly check ride height. Before it goes on the track, right when it comes off the track. Things can change during race day and its best to keep an eye on things. Check your droop too.

What springs and oil are you using btw?
well I had a few problems sugs.
1; had the long bottom shock mounts,instructions use short.
2; drilled all 6 holes 5/64th then ran 90weight fr and 70 rear. switched to 80 rear,it helped.
3; took and put on the other set of shocks-stock setup to chad's spec's.
40 wght fr./35 rear. blue fr and white rear. car perfect for me. all the bad things went away. I thought with the bigger holes I could make it up with heavier oil.WRONG! I learned something, I am not as smart as I think I am. Sugs I can't thank you enough for the input, made me start thinking. What you wrote above is something I will start doing every time.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:21 PM   #270
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The jammin car is not known for doing that, check and make sure your front brake is free when you release the throttle, check for a broken clutch spring, it can drag and partially engage the clutch causing the nose to drop, off throttle. Disconnect the rear drive shaft and make sure the front spins freely. Sounds like something in the front end or brakes. Even check the out drive cups from the center diff. I have seen all these items cause the nose to dive and you wont feel it anywhere else on the track unless you the know the car really well and can feel minor things while driving it.
since I am going to take apart and clean I will do those thing you mentioned above. Before I disassemble.Thanks for the input, never thought of any of those things. I usually roll car on ground to make sure everything is free. Then work brakes and throttle.
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